Burrellsjeep Project: Eugene

Started a new job, so i have been working a lot more. Just been wheeling it as much as possible.

I have a issue with my relay to my fan getting to hot and melting, that will be my next fix. Probably going to rewire and up the relay size and increase the size of the wire so that when i have run on manual bypass I am not concerned the jeep will catch fire. :lol:

But i have some other "plans", just in the gathering stage :huggy:
 
First Trip of the Season - Glutches Offroad Park

First trip to Glutches and I break it wasn't too bad of damage. I over flexed the driver rear and pulled the shock out of the mount, which dropped the axle on the lower CA and broke it at the weld around the bung, which allowed the pinion to rotate up and bind the u joint at the axle and pull the caps out of the u bolts. It can all be fixed fairly easily, gonna band aid it for now and go ahead and start gathering for the rear 4 link and out board the shocks as well. Time to add some limiting straps, I have a few ideas.

Had a great time wheeling, was good to get out on a warm day.

One of our members got it on video.

 
Thought I would post some pictures of my breakage, I going to bandaid it for now until I can fix it the proper way.

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I can weld that link for you if you want me to. Bring it to work with you one day and I will come pick it up.
 
Put the Jeep back together today, Pretty simple fix, just welded the link back.

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Replaced the bar pin in the shock and remounted it. Replaced the Pinion U joint and Straps on the yoke, and remounted it. Thought about limiting the rear to prevent this, but after looking at the condition of most of my mounts on the rear, and the fact the rear is not long armed yet, I just put a band aid on it for now until I do the rear the way I want it. At least I can wheel it like it is for now.
 
Getting ready for a night run up to Brown Mtn, I backed the Jeep out and the Taurus sounds really bad, I think the bearings in it are shot. So I decided it would be best to address this before it fails.

Novacayne dropped this off a while back, its a Ford Fan that he picked up somewhere and had no need for it. I am going to adapt it to the Taurus Fan Shroud. Since the plugs are the same there will be no need to change the wiring.

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First off I needed to remove the fan from the shroud, sawzal did the trick.

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The Shroud has a 1 1/2 "lip" on it that the "new" fan will slip over with some help.

Test fitted.

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It fits over the lip very snug, I added some stainless screws to secure it. I cut the mounting arms off to clean it up.

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Here it is mounted up,

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It works really well, I am pretty impressed with it. Just gotta see how it holds up.

Test run video uploading.
 
So I have been doing some thinking and I would like to get some opinions on this.

I am not happy with the current suspension set up on the Jeep. I am at the point of laying out a whole new set up starting at the rear. My question is materials.

For links I am considering using a Heim on one end and a bushing on the other for the lowers with 2'' DOM, the uppers I am looking at 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 DOM same set up. Cost is a big factor here. I am debating between 1.25'' Heims or 7/8s Heims, I have been running 3/4 heims with out issues. So I would think the 7/8s would hold up, but I would like to see what you guy think.

I dislike the Heim and Heim set up, its to harsh for what I use the jeep for, I want to keep a bushing at the frame to soften it some.

So what do you guys think.
 
Flex joints or heim joints on both ends of the link is the only way to go man. I know its more money but rubber bushings in one end last less time than a tank of gas, and I'm not exagerating. Rubber/poly bushings cannot flex as much as you need them to do in a triangulated four link. If its set up right I can't imagine heim/heim arms being to harsh. Every setup I've done is that way, some are strictly street and some just offroad. A common problem with TJ's at stock wheelbase is that you end up with pretty short lowers and even shorter uppers. And anything over about 4.5 inches of lift has terrible torque steer. Which will be multiplied with bushings in the links. They just give too much. 7/8 heims should do okay for what you're doing but by the time you buy joints, jam nuts, bungs, and missalignment spacers, you may as well go for JJ's or atleast creeper joints. 2" .250 lowers and 1.5 or 1.75 with a minimum of .120 wall should be fine.
 
bushings and links

I dig your prodject....... my 2cents ....It is true that rubber / polly bushings dont hold up on 4 link susp. with more than 10inc. of travel and on an opposed or triangulated 4 link they realy wont last. Its also true that rubber bushings offer a softer and quieter ride... with that I think you have to ask yourself, what kind of a suspention am I gonna build, how much movement will it have at the axle and what is the degree of deflextion on the joint... Heck, last year in MOAB I lost track of how many broken RE joints and JJ I saw... Polly is crap in my opinion no matter what your using it on eccept a race car... Rubber joints are good up to about 10 degrees of deflection and after that they go to crapp, and the faster you drive when the suspention is flexed and the rubber joint is maxxed the fast they go away ... Heck, everything has to give, even your shock mounts... What joints should you run ???? The best ones you can afford ... should you use oversized hiems ??? only if you cant afford a good sphyrical joint, and then use a rubber bushing at the axle and the heim at the frame. Remember, heims aren't designed to take a side load, everything wares out, rubber has to be replaced, and sphyrical joints will have to be rebuilt........
 
Thanks for the advice, this is what I was looking for.

Currently I have a three link long arm set up in the front with flex joints on both ends. I am using a Creeper Joint at the frame and a Ballistic Joint at the Axle end, the rear is well not been done yet.

My issues with the front are the Joints seem so contact the mounts before reaching there full flex, I would say the Creeper Joints are worst than the Ballistic ones due to them being much larger joints. Now this could be my fault, this was my first attempt at laying out a 3 link, and well there was a learning curve. So whats the fix for mounting the joints, Tabs?

You can see in the picture how tight it is around the joint, I constantly hear it tapping the side of the mount when it flexes. Is my mount just to shallow?

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It does look really tight in the lower link mount. I have run into issues in the past with creeper joints not fitting in some brackets. If you have ballistic joints in the axle end they're smaller just flip the link around and see if it makes a difference. You would have to really flex the suspension fast to even begin to hear a tap as the joints hit the bracket. I there any chance the noise is from something different? I've built a few TJ's with almost the same set up, even with all creeper joints and have never seen any contact with the brackets at full flex. I think if you were contacting the mounts that much the races in them should be toast in no time. Have you had any issues with the joints getting loose?
 
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