Ranger SAS

Good question. I don't think so but I'm not sure. I have not proven it but I believe my factory jeep reservoir dumps fluid when in on steep climbs. I'd like to try a sealed tank. I wonder if 2 90's would work and get the tank lower?
 
I tried like hell to find 2 90s: I did find one, but all the 10jic hydraulic fittings are enormous. I really don't think I have the room without relocating the fuse box or battery. I would like the battery elsewhere but that's just because I like the look of a roomy engine compartment.

Today: disconnected the exhaust from the cat back. These trucks have an awkward oval shaped coupling at the exhaust manifold to cat, and two cats in a row. Cats are jointed by 2.75" tubing. So I chopped the exhaust out in between the two and gutted the first cat. I had an adapter for 2.75" to 2.25" made for 10$ at a muffler shop in Thomasville last week. Seems to fit up just right. This will be my first shot at welding exhaust tubing. More to come once I find 10' of 2.25" for a reasonable price.

Open to pointers on welding exhaust. I did get the union cleaned up.
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When I did mine this summer I basically tacked all the way around so it would not blow through. I'm not a welder though..... ;)
 
Turn the heat to a low/medium setting with plenty of wire to fill the openings. On my Hobart 190, I use 2/50 setting. Just make sure you keep moving or you will blow through.
 
Ended up getting the cat and adapter welded up yesterday. I think I was running about 3/60 on my Hobart 187. It was a setting for 11 or 16 gauge. Also, picked up 10 feet of 2.25" and just ran it straight out the back for now. Once I address the rear shock situation, I'll have a better idea of how much space I have for exhaust and muffler. Until then, it'll sound rowdy at idle and like shit with any pedal.
 
The extremely straight pipe that I did yesterday.
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Today I wired up some cheap LED bubble lights for plate lights. And took it for a test drive up the road. Only went about a mile but truck seems to have good power through the gears (I'm used to a 22re). Steering is pretty touchy.
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Life, diesel trucks, job search, girlfriend, Dixie Run have all kept Doublemint on the back burner for the past few months. But I finally got around to mounting the hydro assist on Saturday. Chased a bunch of clearance issues with the fittings and tie rod. Took it around the yard and was very happy with how much more stable it felt. No high speed test runs yet. Need to go back over it and add some teflon. It was a light at the end of the Saginaw swap tunnel kind of day.

I have a flowmaster muffler waiting for me on my next parts run to the mountains. So hopefully I can shoehorn that thing under there somewhere.

And I also blew about a month worth of acorns out of the bed and reorganized the toolbox which has been a catch all for spare parts here recently.

Pictures later today
 
Got the exhaust at least functional for now. Plan to weld it once I redo the rear shocks. I complain about how tall the truck is, but sure is nice to be able to sit up under the bed and work on something.

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The spring is to prevent the ram from rotating downward with the misalignment of the heim, and contacting the tie rod with the hydraulic fittings. Might be doing ball joints here shortly. I love this truck, but am scared to drive it on the road. Steering is still very touchy. Likr left lane or ditch touchy. Any suggestion are appreciated.
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Do you have TRE roll? Hard to see what you have there in that picture.
 
how are the angles of the drag link and trac bar? dunno if anything has changed since i sold it. Also, I have read that using one heim and one rubber/poly bushing on the trac bar can increase road manners. IIRC i still had heims at both ends of the trac bar.
 
Also IIRC you want the trackbar to be as close to length and angle as the drag link. Please correct me If I'm remembering that wrong.
 
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