Mid-engine Honda Buggy Build, FJ-40 axles

my understanding of the Hondas is they more/less used the same ECM and code base for a long time, they simple updated code to use the various pins as they needed. This has made it easy for people collectively pick these things apart... (unlike GM where it tends to be spotty centered around specific modes/engine/tunes.)

I would search for your ECM model/type first. Also there are TONs of Honda tuner type info out there. You really need to see what you can do with the chip and outputs first then see what/how you need to do your harness.

You can either choose to follow stock pin outs or re-pin wires into the ecm as you like and program the ecm to match. From my little bits of reading on it there are many code updates you can do to run/control most anything add wide band, self-tune stuff etc...

As Jim said the first one you do is time consuming even just to pare a harness down but once you get past the 'mess' its really not to bad and it helps you understand the big picture.

Again I think if you search on the ECM you have you might find the pinouts.
 
All the research I have done says to downconvert because immobilizers and lots of other stuff make the OBD2 computers really hard to use.
GSRswapandslow's buddy sounds really promising on the phone, and said he thinks he can probably do it (and knows what he's talking about).
Here's some current pics, will probably pull it outside tomorrow and flex it out and get some pics of that as well.
Thanks to Billy @ Alliance for hoses, brakelines, fitting, etc.

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man that thing looks pimp.....

but yeah i called joey today and made SURE he had your number, glad to see he called....and i'm telling you, if ANYONE can make this work..........it'll be him.
 
The buggy looks super slick and clean.

Despite what Rob says a few pages back the Accord manual transmissions aren't as weak as advertised, with two caveats. First, they are cable shift and don't like to be speed shifted; cable adjustment issues similar to a DSM, and the non-H22 gears aren't hardened on the sides (just like the K-series garbage) so trying to engage a gear under power runs a chance of shearing the teeth off when the synchro hub tries to mate. Second, the tolerances in the gearbox are too tight and like to be loosened, especially the input shaft (#1 reason why bellhousings crack under power). All that being said, I know people who've put 400-500 whp through an Accord box and had it last a decent span, you'll be fine.

You have a few hiccups along the way, however. P0B-A20 is cross referencing to a '96 F22B MT non-VTEC ECU. I have to sit down and verify the wiring but I have a '97 F22B MT VTEC ECU that I may be able to make work, but I am not 100% sure; while the OBD2 Honda ECUs are directly modeled off of the OBD1 units (even use the same sensors) I have never tried to make one play nice without all of the extra emissions gimcrackery. Otherwise, an OBD1 conversion is in order in which case I recommend a Civic/Integra unit as they can be tuned/tweaked as needed, and this allows the annoying EGR stuff to be blocked off.

If you do stay OBD2 it's not difficult to maintain the EGR system on those cars, but they have as bad of a reputation as Ford for acting up. As long as you don't have a Siemens EGR valve then it's a simple 15 minute cleaning job.

paradisePWoffrd said:
why switch to odb1? if you have everything for obd2, why not just flash the computer to get rid of the tranny and emissions stuff?
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Hondas were not truly OBD2 compliant until '01-02, depending on the model, in that their ECUs were not reflashable. It's kind of confusing because '99-00 Civic Si ECU were designed to be reflashed, but ended up fitted with an OTP processor.
 
Any reason for running hardline out of the orbital? Have not really seen this, although it should disipate heat better than soft line.
 
I was told the transmission was something H series (if I remember correctly), maybe out of an LS??

Joseph (or Joey, whichever you go by), I would prefer to swap to OBD1 if that is better. I would like it as simple as possible, and being able to tune the ECU would have it's advantages I guess. I have a P75 (although non-VTEC) that has the connector for a chip, (although missing the chip), and was told it can be converted to run V-tec. If you can find a better ECU that would be fine too.

Sam, I ran hardlines out of the orbital to keep the softlines out of a tight spot coming out of the dash, I didn't trim enough and didn't want to pull the dash off again to trim more... I also figured it would make for easier hose replacement if need be since the fitting will be easily accessible.

I am really paranoid about the power steering fluid cooling, I have the pretty big filter, a high volume cooler (mounted to radiator), and a resevoir that probably holds 1.5-2 quarts. After the last two buggies I've owned with horrible power steering temperature problems, I wanted to hopefully take care of it right off the bat. Only problem I forsee is needing to step up from the Honda PS pump to a chevy LT1 pump.
 
Either works, seems mostly girls call me Joey though. :p

I can convert that P75 to VTEC, as well as socket it for a chip, it's a trivial process on the OBD1 stuff.

Call you in a bit.
 
Gotcha. Dont deal much with the honda stuff but if you do go with a Gen 2 or 3 chevy pump then i would go stock and not high dollar replacement. Seen too many issues with those. When you plan on testing?

Also, is that a 90 fitting comeing off the PS filter? Those generate tons of heat so if possible you might want to get a 45 or atleast a curved 90 instead of the L style.
 
Tacoma747 said:
I am really paranoid about the power steering fluid cooling, I have the pretty big filter, a high volume cooler (mounted to radiator), and a resevoir that probably holds 1.5-2 quarts. After the last two buggies I've owned with horrible power steering temperature problems, I wanted to hopefully take care of it right off the bat. Only problem I forsee is needing to step up from the Honda PS pump to a chevy LT1 pump.
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Prime and run the system on a 1/2" drill before you ever start the engine, ( remove belt and drive pump with drill ) you have the option of running the pump slow to avoid burning it up from too little lubrication at engine idle speeds. and you'll also have the opportunity to find leaks before they become a large mess.

Another up side, if you have a fast/powerful enough drill, you can see how the pump will drive the steering system. and hear any issues with out having to try and over come engine noise as well.

just a suggestion
 
Pulled it outside today and flexed it out to check for rubbing, measure for driveshafts, and to charge the air shocks. Only had one place that was a problem. On the drivers side front, the air shock would barely rub the trac bar bracket when fully flexed (not drooped straight down). We notched the tube and welded in a piece of tube for clearance. Rear tires also BARELY rubbed the shocks at full flex.

Got some wiring done, fan, headlights, ignition switch, and starter switch. Got the throttle cable done (except for a return spring), worked on a top secret trick with the winch, and probably got some other things done.

Wiring guy is planning on coming on Wednesday, so hopefully I can have everything else ready for a test run by the weekend. Still have to finish making driveshafts though.
 

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In above picture the red side panel still has some trimming left to be done.

The trick with the winch had to do with rotating the end, but I've got to drill/tap new holes because it can only be rotated every 2/5'th turn and I needed to rotate it 3/5'th of a turn I guess. I'll put it this way, you won't be doing this (at least not easily) with a winch in front of an engine...
 

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Looks good. I actually like the hardlines near the orbital especially near the passenger compartment. I'm surprised more people don't do that.
 
yager said:
Looks good. I actually like the hardlines near the orbital especially near the passenger compartment. I'm surprised more people don't do that.
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Doesn't matter much, the hoses run right beside the drivers seat. I've thought about putting them inside a piece of PVC pipe or something though...
 
yager said:
Looks good. I actually like the hardlines near the orbital especially near the passenger compartment. I'm surprised more people don't do that.
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I like the hard lines too. I prob. should do that to help with safety as I'm always worried about getting fluid impailed if there was ever a leak in a pressure line...


Looks good! Going to be ready March 20? :)
 
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