"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

StretchASU said:
"I'm gonna do it this way"

NC4x4: "man there's really a better, safer, not much more expensive way"

"Yep fuck that, here we go"

:driver::rockon::driver::rockon:
Click to expand...
So lets have it...what's so wrong and "unsafe" with my setup
 
Bc it's wrong, period. I'm all for doing it cheap but there's some things you don't do cheap. A combustible and highly flammable liquid is riding around in the back of your jeep secured by shitty metal straps and scrap 2x4s. Wtf happens when you roll it or flip it on its side? There is a wealth of knowledge on this site and the proper way has been shown. I'm also positive this is a trolling attempt...:shaking:
 
shawn said:
Why in the fuck is there wood in the back of the Jeep?
Click to expand...
It was extra hold down...bolted through floor and just extra tie down and to have something solid to put metal or plywood over whole section back there...still in the thought process
 
YJJPWrangler said:
Bc it's wrong, period. I'm all for doing it cheap but there's some things you don't do cheap. A combustible and highly flammable liquid is riding around in the back of your jeep secured by shitty metal straps and scrap 2x4s. Wtf happens when you roll it or flip it on its side? There is a wealth of knowledge on this site and the proper way has been shown. I'm also positive this is a trolling attempt...:shaking:
Click to expand...
Right and those metal straps are unsafe how???especially 5 of them...and there will be a full roll cage in this jeep down the rd, not top no windows or anything
 
marty79 said:
It was extra hold down...bolted through floor and just extra tie down and to have something solid to put metal or plywood over whole section back there...still in the thought process
Click to expand...

Wood is not solid. Those straps are not solid. The straps should be bolted through solid metal. Don't use screws. Build a firewall that separates the entire fuel system from the passenger compartment.
 
Go take a look at any single build on here. Do you see ANYONE using that kind of strap to hold their gas tank down? Spend the extra money for the correct tie downs, not metal strap from Lowes. In reference to the cage, is the cage going to hold it down? Cage is only going to protect you. What happens when those straps break(and they will).
 
I'll add onto what @paradisePWoffrd mentioned. It's not "easy" to secure a tank but there's ways to do it and actually maximize storage.
SU1HMDAxNDAtMjAxMTA1MjMtMTAwNi5qcGc.jpg

This is how I did mine. Built an all metal fully caged clamping device that bolted to the floor. The structure as a whole could support my 175 lb ass so you know a cooler would be fine. Protected the tank, added much needed tie downs, added clearance underneath and has held up for almost a decade.
 
shawn said:
Wood is not solid. Those straps are not solid. The straps should be bolted through solid metal. Don't use screws. Build a firewall that separates the entire fuel system from the passenger compartment.
Click to expand...
Ok ok chill ..if u read my post I'm not done with it its in there and held down but it will be completely covered somehow when done and 3 1000lb ratchet straps added to it going through floor and such...that's why I said its not complete yet
 
T
XJsavage said:
I'll add onto what @paradisePWoffrd mentioned. It's not "easy" to secure a tank but there's ways to do it and actually maximize storage. View attachment 244747
This is how I did mine. Built an all metal fully caged clamping device that bolted to the floor. The structure as a whole could support my 175 lb ass so you know a cooler would be fine. Protected the tank, added much needed tie downs, added clearance underneath and has held up for almost a decade.
Click to expand...
His I like a lot and its what I was thinking once I cut the roof and do full cage
 
How about the lift question...anyone have a good guess of how much lift that is back there to clear the 37s like that
 
Loganwayne said:
Probably close to 8" which I believe is way to high for an xj center of gravity is two high, even more so since you moved the tank up high. But carry on not like you'll listen to solid advice anyways

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Wow u think its that much..I agree I was hoping for 5ish. Wouldn't you say that looks ideal for good clearance on the 37s though? Looking at it any amount of lift less and tires would be all up in the body
 
You have enough lift with those springs to create a crappy shackle angle.

Buddy, for real, and seriously...Worry less about the lift from those springs and spend more time listening to some advice regarding:
A- how to secure that fuel tank
B- using a poly cell in place of aforementioned fuel tank
C- correct method of securing either option A or B
D- use of those 16.5 wheels and what'll happen when you air down past 20

Slow down, take in some real advice and establish a proper plan of attack. It'll save you so much grief in the long run.
 
Loganwayne said:
But carry on not like you'll listen to solid advice anyways
Click to expand...
And hate to burst yours & everyone else's bubble but all the crap you all talked about my last jeep was totally just that...crap.because that jeep outlasted and outperformed everyone's bs opinions including my own expectations so clearly by now its sorry to see another build already frowned upon knowing in the end...it will prove itself more than worthy. So cut the childish crap already..my rig kept up with any other Xj built "better" and this one will surpass it. Seems like were back to the "hating on fullers builds that somehow proves itself again and again"...I'm not being a hater man but just wish you'd grow up a little from this bully mentality and let people enjoy what they build while providing pointers without there alway
 
Jody Treadway said:
You have enough lift with those springs to create a crappy shackle angle.

Buddy, for real, and seriously...Worry less about the lift from those springs and spend more time listening to some advice regarding:
A- how to secure that fuel tank
B- using a poly cell in place of aforementioned fuel tank
C- correct method of securing either option A or B
D- use of those 16.5 wheels and what'll happen when you air down past 20

Slow down, take in some real advice and establish a proper plan of attack. It'll save you so much grief in the long run.
Click to expand...
Hey I gotcha about the tank man. I've said it over and over its not complete...I don't get all my ideas all at once...I have to put something in place and work from there. Remember how many times I've hacked up control arms to get em right lol..same with this. Right now I just mounted it to have room for moving onto axles but when $ gets better, I need material to box it in with steel and cover the whole rear section...so were covered on the tank!!
Moving on....
 
Enough on the tank already.....lol
 
And @Jody Treadway I realize for now I have to stay above 20psi and I will...until I get some H1 wheels down the rd. Its what I got to work with. If y'all knew how much I gave for 5 of them tires with wheels you would understand on my budget why I bought em....
 
0e8f34b40de454afbee04626047179e1.jpg


TJ tank doesn't fit in a JK, so I redid the floor. This cost maybe $20 in metal and bolts if that, and is a shit safer. Stop being lazy
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
0e8f34b40de454afbee04626047179e1.jpg


TJ tank doesn't fit in a JK, so I redid the floor. This cost maybe $20 in metal and bolts if that, and is a shit safer. Stop being lazy
Click to expand...
this is really what I envisioned from the getgo is to cover the whole rear section with steel sheet like that or at least over the whole top of it and make a cutout like that to access the pump...thanks for the picture as I'm a visual learner mostly and that really helps me have the idea now of what I was thinking to do.:beer:
 
on another serious question..Front Axle: thinking to aim it up at a perfect angle to transfer case and grinding down the Inner C's to turn them back to proper angle once the pinion is set. I suppose grinding down the welds isn't too bad but my concern is welding them back together...will my welder be able to do it? Everything I've welded on axles and unibody has never failed...even before I knew of "double passes" so I can weld pretty descent but will that job in all seriousness require a 220welder to really burn them back in....
 
and I take it these are Cast Iron Housings?
 
I don't have words... I do however, have weenie's for the bonfire when this thing lights off. Hope I'm there to see it.
 
Back
Top