Future shop build advice

shelby27604

shelby27604

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Location
Efland NC
Getting some numbers together for a shop build. I have read through a bunch of the build threads here and it seems red iron comes up a lot. When I search for them, I don't find a specific local company. Is red iron a brand name sold through distributors or am I missing something?

Will be building in Vance County, any recommendations for companies for a turn-key setup (site work, concrete, steel building erection).

I am thinking about 30' x 40' with two roll up doors and lean-tos on either side for storage. The shop will probably have a couple vehicles in it, metal working tools (lathe, mill, press, brake, a handful of welders, etc).

Looking to hear what you have, what you are using it for, and if you sized it just right, too small, or too big. This isn't a "forever shop" so I am looking for just enough to keep me tidy and organized without having to move too much stuff to do a build or change oil in a daily driver.

Would also like to know what people are paying per SQ.ft on similar builds these days.
 
Red iron is the term used to describe a metal building built with i-beam and z-bar type construction. All the metal is red primer painted which is where the name comes from. I can tell you from experience if you do turn key you will pay 30-50% more for the building.
 
shelby27604 said:
Getting some numbers together for a shop build. I have read through a bunch of the build threads here and it seems red iron comes up a lot. When I search for them, I don't find a specific local company. Is red iron a brand name sold through distributors or am I missing something?

Will be building in Vance County, any recommendations for companies for a turn-key setup (site work, concrete, steel building erection).

I am thinking about 30' x 40' with two roll up doors and lean-tos on either side for storage. The shop will probably have a couple vehicles in it, metal working tools (lathe, mill, press, brake, a handful of welders, etc).

Looking to hear what you have, what you are using it for, and if you sized it just right, too small, or too big. This isn't a "forever shop" so I am looking for just enough to keep me tidy and organized without having to move too much stuff to do a build or change oil in a daily driver.

Would also like to know what people are paying per SQ.ft on similar builds these days.
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Just a general comment.
My previous shop was a 30x40.
I haven’t built my new one yet hoping to start in November.
But the only way I’d ever go 30x40 again is if I could only pull in the short side.

30’ is perfectly just too short. If you put a full size truck in, shut the door, then try to pull a motor with a cherrry picker it ain’t coming out if there is anything against the opposite wall. Just as one example. I’d strongly consider pushing the 30 dimension if at all possible
 
shelby27604 said:
Would also like to know what people are paying per SQ.ft on similar builds these days.
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Truly depends on your location, material, time of day you get a quote from the supplier, how many seconds you hesitate before giving said supplier your P.O. and what color metal you select.

Prior to rona I would tell you to take your budget...and double it. But post-rona, I'll tell you with confidence that IF you decide to proceed....you need to pay as you go and NEVER record what you've spent or track a single dime. Or you WILL lose your sanity.

You'll be hard pressed to find ANYONE to quote you a sqft budget number. And if you DO it'll be that "spread dem cheeks" number so they cover themselves.


Ron said:
30’ is perfectly just too short. If you put a full size truck in, shut the door, then try to pull a motor with a cherrry picker it ain’t coming out if there is anything against the opposite wall. Just as one example. I’d strongly consider pushing the 30 dimension if at all possible
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My shop is 30x40. I can pull my dually in and walk around it and I have 30" pantry cabinets all along the back wall

20200223_175356.jpg

But like Ron said, I won't be pulling an engine
 
Junkyard Dog said:
Red iron is the term used to describe a metal building built with i-beam and z-bar type construction. All the metal is red primer painted which is where the name comes from. I can tell you from experience if you do turn key you will pay 30-50% more for the building.
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So what I'm seeing here is you need to buy building with plans and sub out your self site work, concrete, and building erection?
 
I don't mind being the GC, and if the cost savings is that substantial, maybe that will be how I end up doing it.

My plan was for the 30' to be the drive-in side to maximize lean-to area as well.
 
@shelby27604 not sure how much you looked at mine when you were here a couple years ago, but it is 34x40 pole barn style. It's 34ft from front door to back wall, and I wish it was 38-40ft deep instead. It's big enough to work, but always feels crowded at the front (mostly because of the junk I tend to collect there). I have a 3ft workbench at the back, so by the time you leave 3ft of walkspace, and pull a 22-24ft truck in there, there's only 4-6ft of space at the front. Which is enough, but seems awfully tight when you consider the size of the shop. 40x60 would be nice, but then your RV or boat trailer or whatever is too long. 60x100 would be nice, but then its tight with your truck and trailer. See the problem? :D

I don't think you can go wrong with red iron or pole barn style. If you have a few local friends who are willing to help, you can put it up yourself, it just takes longer. It took a couple (6) months to get mine done, working mostly on weekends, being as cheap as possible, with a lot of other things going on in life. Technically its still not "done" 7 years later because I still have a few trim things that are unfinished on the lean-to end, but it's been dryed in and working without those things :D
 
ghost said:
So what is Standing roof and enclosed roof? Pole barn and building?
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Standing roof is what I call a shed. Enclosed includes the sides.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Standing roof is what I call a shed. Enclosed includes the sides.
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Thanks that is what I was thinking.
jeepcj3a said:
On the left side of that attachment in red is a brief overview of standing roof and enclosed roof.
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Yes I see writing but can't read those tiny ass letters.....
 
braxton357 said:
Standing roof is basically a carport. No sides. Enclosed roof is 4 sides and all the extra trim needed for an enclosed building.

They just set up a nice new online quote system yesterday for buildings IdeaRoom for Buildings
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But you wont come install the damn thing.
Ill write a check today for a building if you bring your hippie ass off the mountain and erect it.... lol
 
My building is 24X30. It was what I could afford. No matter what size you build, or how you build it, you will find things you'd wished you had, after the fact.
Me?...
Isolation
gutters
the 24 would be36, the 30 would be 60
better quality walk through door
better quality roll up doors

But, after so many ears without a building, I am grateful to have what I have.
 
braxton357 said:
Standing roof is basically a carport. No sides. Enclosed roof is 4 sides and all the extra trim needed for an enclosed building.

They just set up a nice new online quote system yesterday for buildings IdeaRoom for Buildings
Click to expand...
I just talked to the lady there yesterday and am planning to take a trip up there after vacation to order mine. Very nice people to deal with.
 
Do those prices include delivery and engineered stamped plans? Is that insulation for the walls and ceiling? R10 is not very thick. I went with 6" in the ceiling and 4" on my walls in my new shop. I see no doors are included. My 12x12 Raynor doors cost me 2500 each. They are 2" thick insulated too. Top of the line.
 
Tom@Hilltop_Machine said:
Do those prices include delivery and engineered stamped plans? Is that insulation for the walls and ceiling? R10 is not very thick. I went with 6" in the ceiling and 4" on my walls in my new shop. I see no doors are included. My 12x12 Raynor doors cost me 2500 each. They are 2" thick insulated too. Top of the line.
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All of this. My experience from bidding 30x40s 6 months ago is that those cheap prices include only excatly what is listed, and there's a ton more stuff you need, the price goes up very quickly. Its adding things like doors, trim, heavier gauge siding where the actual prioce is well outside the eye-catching cheap one.
Also don't forget the cost of the concrete slab and site prep
 
Ron said:
But you wont come install the damn thing.
Ill write a check today for a building if you bring your hippie ass off the mountain and erect it.... lol
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I put them up locally, i dont travel to sc under any circumstance.

And for sure that isn't including any roll up doors, but they are a wholesaler of roll ups and even a fully insulated one will be a lot less than 2500. The r10 foil insulation is only to keep the ceiling from sweating on you, if you plan to air condition the shop there are other more expensive options. I'm not a salesman but I'll guarantee if you want a shop built in the next 6 months this is the way to go. For the same red iron building you're going to pay 3x as much.
 
braxton357 said:
I put them up locally, i dont travel to sc under any circumstance.
Click to expand...

you need to consider new circumstances .
I’ll feed the crew brownies and beer every night.
 
braxton357 said:
I put them up locally, i dont travel to sc under any circumstance.

And for sure that isn't including any roll up doors, but they are a wholesaler of roll ups and even a fully insulated one will be a lot less than 2500. The r10 foil insulation is only to keep the ceiling from sweating on you, if you plan to air condition the shop there are other more expensive options. I'm not a salesman but I'll guarantee if you want a shop built in the next 6 months this is the way to go. For the same red iron building you're going to pay 3x as much.
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Ron said:
you need to consider new circumstances .
I’ll feed the crew brownies and beer every night.
Click to expand...
Maybe yall should meet in the middle. @Ron you can buy a new building and @braxton357 build it at my place so he doesn't have to leave the state.
 
You figure out to the exact sq ft how much space you'll need.
It won't be enough.
Double it.
It still won't be enough.
So build as much as you can afford over what you think you need.
BTW - the correct terminology to punch into google is "pre-engineered steel buildings".
 
My shop was here when I bought the property. It is 24x30 and it is fine for working on a Jeep but a crewcab …no.

I’m putting 16’ sheds on each side which will be great.

Build as big as you can.
 
Sadly with prices being what they are, building the biggest shop I can afford will definitely mean that I am building less shop than I "need".

Subbing out the majority of the work is primarily to avoid the long, drawn out, never done nature of projects like this.....I would much rather get it done, and get in there making / flipping something that will help offset the cost than spending that same time building the shop.

Pulling into the short side is a good tip. I will be sure to incorporate that. I have started the online quote process at a couple of the companies listed here, if anyone has good experience with anyone else, let me know.

What is the biggest door you have needed and why? Worst case right now I need to put a 55hp Mahindra in there. Best case a deuce and a half....or dare I dream a 5 ton?

Dual roll up doors, or just one big one? I am thinking cost wise, one big one is cheaper....but I also hate to land lock things in the garage because the latest big thing is blocking the only door OR always leaving open (wasted) space in front of the only access door.
 
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