1998 TJ on Super Duty axles

rear flexes great, may need to soften the front to get a little more flex out of it.
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98_tj said:
rear flexes great, may need to soften the front to get a little more flex out of it.
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If the front rides well, don't change springs for flex. Add a rear swaybar if you want to force the front to work more.
 
just finished mounting limit straps, taking it out this weekend hopefully.

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Decided to make it street legal thanks to the relaxed laws in SC compared to other states. All I had to do was one phone call to put insurance on it, run the title to the county treasury office ($19 vehicle tax lol) then swing by the dmv on my way home and got a tag. Only the insurance company asked for a picture of the vehicle to put it on file.

As far as wheels and tires go, I did not want to damage my reds while driving down the road, nor did I want to unmount them off of the beadlocks. So thanks to the for sale section on here, I got a really good deal on a set of rims with the correct 8-170 bolt pattern, and a set of 39.5 Iroks.

The rims had a second valve stem hole drilled for running an internal beadlock. So I drilled and tapped it for a 1/8 NPT plug that I can remove with the tire still mounted. I used this to add antifreeze to the tires to balance them. I put about a quart in each tire and it seems to work great!

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98_tj said:
Decided to make it street legal thanks to the relaxed laws in SC compared to other states. All I had to do was one phone call to put insurance on it, run the title to the county treasury office ($19 vehicle tax lol) then swing by the dmv on my way home and got a tag. Only the insurance company asked for a picture of the vehicle to put it on file.

As far as wheels and tires go, I did not want to damage my reds while driving down the road, nor did I want to unmount them off of the beadlocks. So thanks to the for sale section on here, I got a really good deal on a set of rims with the correct 8-170 bolt pattern, and a set of 39.5 Iroks.

The rims had a second valve stem hole drilled for running an internal beadlock. So I drilled and tapped it for a 1/8 NPT plug that I can remove with the tire still mounted. I used this to add antifreeze to the tires to balance them. I put about a quart in each tire and it seems to work great!

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so when are you driving it down to the shop and going on a road trip with me and Joe?
:driver::smokin:
 
The first test drive was 20miles, which normally takes 30mins or so. I took it slow due to a couple issues so it turned into a 45min trip. The front right brake rotor was bent due to a rock, which shattered one of the pistons in the caliper. The back right brake caliper was dragging causing it to get a little toasty. The steering was something else, I had a dead spot in the center and had about an 1/8th of a turn where pretty much nothing happened. But the Jeep survived the trip!

I found a little air bubble in the ram and that really helped the steering, I put new rotors on the front, and replaced both calipers on the right side fixing those issues.
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98_tj said:
Once I finish repairing my tcase and making sure my rear driveshaft doesn't fall out again.

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Cool. if we can get our co-worker Jeff to hurry up and finish his that'll be four 1 ton Jeeps out terrorizing the streets.
 
Speaking of which, so the nut on the yoke on the output of the tcase(sye) worked it's way loose while driving down the road. Thus causing a weird vibration that I couldn't figure out until it came off completely while driving down the road. The driveshaft dented the floor pretty good, and put a small hole in the floor, but it is still good. I hope it didn't bend the driveshaft, so we will see how it is when I put it back in.

After examining it. I first thought the yoke, upgraded to 1350 from 1310, was pinching the seal since it was about 1/4in wider than the ID of the seal. So I got the correct seal then while removing the bad seal I saw the main issue. There is a shoulder in the tail housing of the tcase where the outer race of the bearing presses against. The yoke it supposed to be able to clear it, but the new yoke was too big. The shoulder which only needs to hold the outer race went halfway up the ball bearings. I then removed the tail housing and taking it apart, I took a die grinder and file to the ID of the shoulder opening it up to clear the yoke with a little bit of play. After cleaning, I pressed the bearing back in, and the new seal and it is ready to install onto the tcase.

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I am picking up some rtv and some atf to refill the tcase this afternoon then the driveshaft should be good to go!

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I am not sure, but I can find out next time I am at the jeep.

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After this weekends wheeling trip to river rock, I probably should start looking for a 42in sticky. The sterling 10.5 hangs low and catches everything. But besides smashing my diff on every rock, the jeep did great!

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Got any pics from the RR trip?
 
98_tj said:
After this weekends wheeling trip to river rock, I probably should start looking for a 42in sticky. The sterling 10.5 hangs low and catches everything. But besides smashing my diff on every rock, the jeep did great!

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Does it look possible to just trim the lip off of the bottom effectively making it smooth?




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That was always a fun place. Wish I had heard about it sooner, but I'm in the middle of doing some power moves that'll net some nice bling bling. Heck yeah!
 
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