01 Mounty on Tons!

If you’re sure your link geometry is dead nuts on, then I’d be looking at springs or if your shaft is bottoming out. She sure hates it when that happens, lemme tell ya… :laughing:

EDIT: How is a stiffer lower spring going to help you?

EDIT Pt. Deux: that’s a 93 lb total rate you have in the rear right now. So there’s that.
 
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If you plan on any street driving you’ll want to regear the axles and put a sway bar on the rear $$$$
 
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No I said I need lower rate not heavier
You’re sure bout that?
Heck no, pretty sure its lower springs. They're 200lb, started with 300, probably need 250lb or 275, and upper are 175lb, should be 150s. Some of it is also just the way that incline is too
You said right there you’ve got 200 and need 250-275. That’s why I said “how’s a heavier spring gonna help?”
 
Link geometry is beyond perfect on this rig, that's one thing that's 200%!!
1-Pretty sure rear lower springs are too stiff
2-rides great but i believe shocks need more nitrogen, its smooth but too soft now that I've driven around through some off camber stuff, def too soft a rebound.
I dont know a lot about coilovers but I can tell rebounding is too soft..every little dip or if I just turn too sharp the suspension moves too easily.

A couple things to note here.

1) Coilovers are not tuned with nitrogen pressure. Pressure should be a set number (ex: Fox coilovers are charged to 200psi and all tuning is done through springs and valving)
2) Suspension moving easily is when turning (creating body roll) is a function of the roll axis height. A lower roll axis will cause more body roll. Body roll is then controlled by a sway bar.
3) Are you certain you have adequate triangulation? Without going back through all of thread and only looking at the recent pictures, it looks like a single triangulated 4 link front and rear. The minimum total triangulation is 40 degrees to keep the axle centered. If you have less than 40 degrees, the axle can move and it will cause some weird characteristics.
4) Ensure that the coilovers are not binding at the mounts, upper and lower, when flexed.
5) Where are your dual rate stops set? If at ride height the dual rate stop is very close to the slider, you're loosing your combined spring rate quickly. This is not necessarily a bad thing but if your rig is very light in the rear and you have stiff lower springs, you can verify the need for softer springs by moving the dual rate stops higher and then flexing again. If the rear flex is not improved while using the combined spring rate, you have something else hindering the rear from moving.

None of what I have listed above is a definite answer of any of the circumstances. This is just the thought process I go through when looking/reading the concerns you've expressed.
 
You’re sure bout that?

You said right there you’ve got 200 and need 250-275. That’s why I said “how’s a heavier spring gonna help?”
Yeah my bad lol dont mind me
 
Fox coilovers are charged to 200psi and all tuning is done through springs and valving)
That's what I've read everywhere so I know that's for sure one issue.
I've been told sway bars help since I'm body on frame and coilovers but I dont believe that's a "main issue".
My spring sliders are all the way up currently on all 4 just to see what it would do, I'm kinda confused on how those work
 
Tuning this thing is gonna get the best of me cause I get lost in the dampening adjustment spring swapping valve tuning nitrogen tuning lol..oh boy.

But in all seriousness I just want it to perform pretty well compared to my previous rigs with cobbled together stuff!
 
And currently I'm very happy minus it's a little soft, otherwise I'm impressed for my liking
 
There's nothing wrong with soft, and i wouldn't put a stiff ass spring on there to stop body roll. Dont even worry about thinking about valving... Your slider stop nut determines when your spring rate goes from the soft combined 95ish lb/in to relying solely on the lower heavier rate spring so in your case something like 250lb/in, so when the dual rate slider hits it the suspension gets much stiffer. Screw with that some before you swap anymore springs to see what you like.
 
There's nothing wrong with soft, and i wouldn't put a stiff ass spring on there to stop body roll. Dont even worry about thinking about valving... Your slider stop nut determines when your spring rate goes from the soft combined 95ish lb/in to relying solely on the lower heavier rate spring so in your case something like 250lb/in, so when the dual rate slider hits it the suspension gets much stiffer. Screw with that some before you swap anymore springs to see what you like.
So where do I start with them sliders..like 1" above where it sits at ride height or 2"?
And the nitrogen surely that's way too low right?
 
I'm quite sure there's someone on here that you could take it to and they'd help you get everything setup like you want it and eliminate the guess work.
 
So where do I start with them sliders..like 1" above where it sits at ride height or 2"?
And the nitrogen surely that's way too low right?
Call FOA and get the proper specs for the shocks. I'd honestly verify correct oil level too.....but you dont wanna hear that
 
Call FOA and get the proper specs for the shocks. I'd honestly verify correct oil level too.....but you dont wanna hear that
mine called for 180 psi
 
mine called for 180 psi
Well yeah they pretty much generalize most to be between 185-220, 138 on mine is pretty low so that's definitely gonna help a lot.
 
I'm quite sure there's someone on here that you could take it to and they'd help you get everything setup like you want it and eliminate the guess work.
Worse case scenario at the uwharrie get together someone could lmbo
 
@Jody Treadway can you confirm fuel pressure on this 5.0 should be 67psi? Pretty sure that would be my long cranking starts, thanks
 
Is yours returnless? If so, yes that is correct
Yes no return line. Thanks, that's definitely the issue, maybe why seems to be running lean too
 
I might have lifted front off the ground few inches playing around in 2wd so is that what done this or .....cause how I unintentionally have the springs
20210822_151340.jpg
 
Looks like it's just from how the springs are oriented. However, that should not cause that kind of failure unless they are using brittle plastic for the sliders.

Also, not sure when this pic was taken or the state the suspension is in, but the slider is obviously against the dual rate stop. Did you move this down since your last posting of everything being as high as possible and the rear not flexing?
 
Looks like it's just from how the springs are oriented. However, that should not cause that kind of failure unless they are using brittle plastic for the sliders.

Also, not sure when this pic was taken or the state the suspension is in, but the slider is obviously against the dual rate stop. Did you move this down since your last posting of everything being as high as possible and the rear not flexing?
Yeah I moved them down to touch at ride height just to see what it would do and big difference. I'm guessing cheap plastic, spring orientation and having a little too much fun might have broke that.
 
Spent whole day tying up loose ends, brake lines, etc to get this rig ready for the uwharrie get together and its almost there. Few more things tomorrow and it'll be ready to rock crawl!!
 
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