Project dirt dobber

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pitbullcruiser said:
Nice, no turning back now
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Thanks man. That's right. It's really no turning back...I cut off my shoc k mounts. Lol. Took the criss member behind the seats out and cleaned the frame. Got to weld the pass side on... Just cause I had it ready and it was too late to make so much noise with the grinder. But tomorrow will bring much more grinding. And hopefully get more work done. It turned out nice so far. I'm excited to see how it does.

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Finished the brackets on the pass side tonight. Started in the drivers side. I'll be throwing some tube at it as well. To help with the rear being cut up. I'm also fixing a lot of issues that have been under the radar ...with leads and a factory frame I have over looked. Not now. She will get fixed and I'll move on.
 
Getting to work tonight. I have some binding on up travel I have to work out but over all it's getting there. Getting to mount my shocks. Going to gusset the lower mounts more. But I am happy with the placement. It seems like a good spot. I don't think my tire will rubb but if they do I have room to move them inward.


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It makes for a lower instant center. It allows the vertical intersection to be lower between the upper and lower links. If I had put them lower on the axle it would make my instant center higher. and after speaking with David G and researching some. You want to have the lowest instant center possible. It should make it more stable on hill climbs.better traction is my thoughts. What do you think? Does that make since? It was more work. But not impossibleso I tried it. I had to raise my upper links at the axle to compinsate for this ...But I'm still at 8" verticle separation on my axle.
 
ORV design and fab said:
Hey how much uptravel are you running on your air shox? And how much oil vs nitro ?I'm at 220cc right now of oil and going to stsrt with 200 psi of nitro. I'm going to bring a tank tho to tune until I get it right. Just curious?
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I like to run half up and half down if possible. With air shocks, you get less "push" by running them with little shaft showing, because the pressures are lower. The more oil over recommended you run, the harsher the ride will be and the more air makes them more bouncy.

Those numbers are probly close to start with, but I bet it will be too much pressure.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I like to run half up and half down if possible. With air shocks, you get less "push" by running them with little shaft showing, because the pressures are lower. The more oil over recommended you run, the harsher the ride will be and the more air makes them more bouncy.

Those numbers re probly close to start with, but I bet it will be too much pressure.
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Really. I didn't think that would be too much. I'm light in the rear but not too light. But I havent tuned airshox before. I was just basing my numbers off of other builds and weight.s
 
Once you get to tuning the shocks you'll be surprised at how completely irrelevant the recommended factory settings are. Especially in lighter weight rigs. With the recommended amount of oil and air in mine in the Xtra cab it rode like crap and it liked to "push" or unload a lot on dropoffs. Once I dropped the PSI and oil a bit (numbers I cant remember after 2+ years) It rode a ton better and didnt unload or lift awkwardly on drops. Take a jug of oil, a syringe or measuring device and your air tank. You'll probably end up wanting to change oil and air at some point.
 
The reason i asked was that it looks like a place to get caught up on. If the lower goes into the axle just above the center of the housing it will create a ramp to slide on your lower link. Im not a 4-link expert so the effects of having a slightly higher instant center vs slightly lower is a mystery to me.


As far as my setup, I just raised mine up a couple inches cause i built mine with mostly down travel. Its still like 4-5 up and 11-12 down. If I were to do it again, I would go closer to 50/50 for improved ride quality.


Where did you come up with 220cc? I have not thought about tuning my shocks in a long time, but I do have a nasty unloading issue going downhill and turning sharp (like a switch back).
 
I suggested doing it that way because Jonathan seems to always get crossed up in a ditch or a gulley. It's not the norm, but I think it will help judging by how he drives. I doubt he'll be competing for a holeshot anytime soon. My thought on it is the truck will work better when it's crossed up rather than level at static.
 
Dynamite Design said:
I suggested doing it that way because Jonathan seems to always get crossed up in a ditch or a gulley. It's not the norm, but I think it will help judging by how he drives. I doubt he'll be competing for a holeshot anytime soon. My thought on it is the truck will work better when it's crossed up rather than level at static.
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Yea. What he said.
 
I'm not going by any recommended setting. Just by what research I have done. And my valving.
StretchASU said:
Once you get to tuning the shocks you'll be surprised at how completely irrelevant the recommended factory settings are. Especially in lighter weight rigs. With the recommended amount of oil and air in mine in the Xtra cab it rode like crap and it liked to "push" or unload a lot on dropoffs. Once I dropped the PSI and oil a bit (numbers I cant remember after 2+ years) It rode a ton better and didnt unload or lift awkwardly on drops. Take a jug of oil, a syringe or measuring device and your air tank. You'll probably end up wanting to change oil and air at some point.
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Black Bear said:
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Where did you come up with 220cc? I have not thought about tuning my shocks in a long time, but I do have a nasty unloading issue going downhill and turning sharp (like a switch back).
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I came up with that as my start for my valving and my weight of my buggy. The valving 40/90 so I'll start with a minimum of 210cc and move up for ride and psi for ride eight and will adjust from there. I'll be tuning for sure, but this is just my start.
 
Nah, looks good. Although it looks like the lower link will be against the frame it compresses any at all.
 
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