What radius arm?

We use/sell the CAGE Offroad Arms. They work very well. Let me know if I can help you out with a set.

Andy
 
I would use factory and wrist, Johnny Joint, and extend them. Unless you have the money to buy aftermarket. But I have seen some modified stock radius arms that flex exceptionally well.
 
mudonthetires10 said:
I would use factory and wrist, Johnny Joint, and extend them. Unless you have the money to buy aftermarket. But I have seen some modified stock radius arms that flex exceptionally well.
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That is basically what I am going to do. I will use 2"x.50 DOM and have the ends threaded to except the johnny joints I am going to run. I am going to try to mount the connecting point above the skid plate as best I can. If that doesn't work then I will end up having them hang down low like a lot of the others I have seen I am building mine after the guy in this link.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=898693&highlight=full+width

I have seen those cage radius arms and they are really stout looking. Pretty pricey though.
 
zubz said:
We use/sell the CAGE Offroad Arms. They work very well. Let me know if I can help you out with a set.
Andy
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These are the best after market arms available. The guy that started Cage offroad designed the arms for Duff. They look similar but have a few upgrades from original Duff arms.
I would use factory and wrist, Johnny Joint, and extend them.
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If you build your own, either extend them or wrist them. It is redundant and not worth the effort to do both. I wristed my arm on my rig. It works great, I'm just getting to lazy to pin and unpin every time I want to go wheel. So I plan on building an extended set in the future.
 

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Mine. Wristed only for a long while, then extended. They work quite a bit better now that extended.:flipoff2: :flipoff2: I also did it so that I could bend them for tire clearance/fix caster/mount them higher. I've got probably $40 into both of them altogether, but will probably add more plating later...

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The CAGE arms are nice too if you don't want to diy.
 
Because the axle mount is stationary, extending them even if they are wristed can only help. The extra length allows the axle to flex more before it binds, more horizontally. The wristed modification allows more help vertically.

I don't know by personal experience, but of the guys I know who have wristed and extended, they seem to flex much better than just having them wristed or just extended. That could just be chance, but just what I've seen.
 
I am still not sure which one to run I was wanting the cage off road but $725 is a big bullet to bite but then again I want to me happy with the swap in the end and not regret anything. Thanks for all the input. I don't mind running a extended arm but I will need it bent to fit the bigger tires on turns so I am not sure on how that will work.:confused:
 
don't talk him into using the stock arms, i'm buying them from him. LOL. no...really,
 
when you do that wrist thing on the one side, doesnt that put more stress on the other side that isn't done?
 
Yeah, and it usually tacos in the worst possible location... nose-down, wedged in a hole, twists the front driveshaft and snaps both shocks as it goes, etc.
 
99ncxj said:
when you do that wrist thing on the one side, doesnt that put more stress on the other side that isn't done?
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I was referring to wristing both, not just one side. Extending them as well helps to take off some stress because it allows them to move more horizontally before the arms want to move vertically.
 
if you wrist them both, what is holding the axle from rotating under power? forgive my ignorance but that seems strange
 
I've slept all day and we didnt have classes. So my brain is turned off. Don't count on my answers right now. :lol:

I'm dumb. You're right, as far as I can vouch for right now.
 
You don't wrist the side that has the drive shaft, makes the pinion angle go nuts. It does put all the stress on the unwristed side. I know guys that have broken the the bolts that attach the cap to the arms on that side. I wristed mine because it was cheap and easy to do. But it is no the ideal suspension. Not knocking Braxton's arm, but not many people wrist and extend. Though I have seen the axle wristed and extended arms. But this still puts all the torque on the one arm. Braxton did address 2 problems that usually arise from this type front suspension, castor and tire clearance. Most after market arms will have about 4-5* of castor added to them and are bent to give more turning radius. I would suggest stepping over to a couple of the Ford sites and browsing for a while. Here are a couple good places: classicbroncos.com, http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/index.php, http://www.broncoholics.com/, http://broncofix.com/.

If I were you I believe I would go ahead and swap the axle. Use a set of extensions on the factory arms and wheel it till you get the cash to buy a set of Cage arms. You will be surprised at how well the factory arms stretched 10-12" with the factory bushings will flex.
 
that one makes a little more sense but still would think the axle would just flop around. Maybe i'm just not getting it.
 
The design of the Ford radius arm suspension is just like a sway bar. That is why most of them didn't have one. To make the suspension articulate you need to remove the swap bar tendency. I wouldn't call the bronkzilla design "wristed". He could have accomplish the same results with a hiem joint. He doesn't have before and after flex pic. How much did he gain?


Here is Chuck from BCBroncos, he runs stock arms in the front with long travel shocks and 5.5" springs.
attachment.php
 
yea, i would like to see the difference too. i'm planning on using a hiem joint on mine. i just hope that will let it flex enough.
 
99ncxj said:
yea, i would like to see the difference too. i'm planning on using a hiem joint on mine. i just hope that will let it flex enough.
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Couldn't find the before and afer pics of Bronkzilla, but I did find this good flex shot of a Bronco w/ the CAGE arms. Even if you just extended stock arms and added a heim, I would expect similar flex.

awww.supermotors.net_getfile_228551_fullsize_p1010088.jpg
 
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