Trailer Build

Only down side to the deck over is all your weight is higher. The lower your deck is, the better control you will have, especially when towing with a lighter lighter tow rig.
 
I was thinking that with the 6" c and the 3" that it would clear the deck, but after doing some measurements I dont think it will clear the tires.
 
I would do a 5' tongue. Like someone said, expanded metal is weak, be sure to brace it, or just put wood in the middle if you are trying to save weight.

Agree with Rob, put the biggest axles you can afford in there. Agri-Supply in Garner carries the 5,200# and 7,000# ers.

If you do want the chain holes or D Rings, just put them right in the deck.

Also agree with Rob about the flip-up ramps, nice to have to see the trailer when it is empty. I hate my side slide in ramps and don't use them unless absolutely necessary. This winter I'll probably make them flip up.

For the jack, be sure to get a nice, big drop-leg, like the 12k one and mount it back in front of the deck, not right behind the hitch coupler so you can fold down the tailgate or open the rear door of the tow rig. Also make sure the key release on the drop leg is not blocked by the spare mount so you have to reach in/through/under/around the spare in order to pull the drop-leg pin.

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/2006/F/F15-F18.pdf

If you are doing deck over, be sure you look at the hitch height. Many deck overs have a dropped hitch from the main tongue to get the right height. If you are planning on getting a real truck down the road, if you build it for the tahoe now, it will be too low for the 1-ton later and you might have to use a huge drop hitch. Or better yet, make the hitch adjustable to allow for different vehicles down the road. I like the bulldog style myself. 2 5/16 definately for that hog of a trailer.

HTH,
Shannon
 
The hitch i got already has a hole in it for a jack. So I got the 5000 lb jack because that was the biggest they had.

So i do i need to return it and get a bigger drop leg? 10000 lbs?

How do they mount? Can i just weld it to the cross piece on the tongue?
 
Shannon said:
.....

Also agree with Rob about the flip-up ramps, nice to have to see the trailer when it is empty. I hate my side slide in ramps and don't use them unless absolutely necessary. This winter I'll probably make them flip up. ......

HTH,
Shannon
Click to expand...

I wouldn't want stand up ramps. Always had junk hanging off the back.

Just before i sold my trailer i finally bolted on a pair of snow plow markers i had picked up while visiting back home in NY.. They are ~$6 each and are flexable. Stand up just enough to be visiable in rear view mirror. I put some additional eflective tape on the top, that helped a ton at night..
 
Shannon said:
Also agree with Rob about the flip-up ramps, nice to have to see the trailer when it is empty. I hate my side slide in ramps and don't use them unless absolutely necessary. This winter I'll probably make them flip up.
Click to expand...

LOL... afraid the trailer is going to fall off or something?

That's what side mirrors are for. If you can't see your trailer fenders in your side mirrors, adjust your mirrors.

Flip-up ramps just get in the way, IMHO.
 
Because I don't have flip up ramps (with the supports) sometimes I put a jackstand under the back of trailer to limit the wheelie the trailer wants to do when I pull on/off of it. I've grown comfortable with lifting the rear of my truck but flip up ramps with that built in support would be nice.

I don't really mind carrying the ramps around. I only use them when I drive on the trailer, not off. (Maybe that means I do mind and it's a PITA. I should think about that. :) )
 
brokeass4runner said:
The hitch i got already has a hole in it for a jack. So I got the 5000 lb jack because that was the biggest they had.
So i do i need to return it and get a bigger drop leg? 10000 lbs?
How do they mount? Can i just weld it to the cross piece on the tongue?
Click to expand...

Yup, can be welded to the front.

Definately go bigger, the 5k won't stand up to unloading with a rig on the trailer and those that mount with the hole in the tongue (top handle) can be dangerous to the tailgate.

Shannon
 
For as heavy a trailer as you are building you have been offered several good ideas. The foot on the front of the trailer, not on the tongue is a very good one. I have seen them with one in the middle, and I have seen them one on each side of the trailer.

Fold down ramps offer the option of having a foot on them that will hit the ground before it jacks the tow rig up in the air while unloading. I have also seen guys put a foot on each back corner that is pinned. You can pull the pin, lower the foot(multiple holes for uneven terrain) and them raise them for going down the road. I have seen the flip up ramps with feet give issue for some. One problem is uneven terrain, and the ramp won't go all the way down, so they have to back the tow rig up to make it did in and go down. Or, they have it down from unloading, it's dug in, so when they load again, they have to pull forward to be able to raise the ramp back up.
With the adjustable feet, you don't have this issue.
Another good idea was the adjustable hitch for towing with different rigs, Probably one of the best ideas yet.
 
I would highly consider some type of jack or stop on the ramps (or back of trailer) for when you load/unload. I've seen a tow rig/trailer take off down a hill when unloading because the tow rig was parked on a hill and the rear end of the truck picked up while unloading. The parking brake was on, but only good for the rear tires...

Just a thought so you'll save your tow rig

Rob
 
I think that jacks in the back and front would be a good idea.

Where should I locate them?

I used the red and blue to represent to different mounting spots. Or suggest other mounting points.
 

Attachments

  • Trailer Addendum Drop Leg.jpg
    Trailer Addendum Drop Leg.jpg
    40.9 KB · Views: 511
I have fold down ramps with "knees" AND stake pockets where your REDS are. I wouldnt ant them any farther forward.

I dont use them everytime, or much even, but when I have needed them I wouldnt trade them for anything in the world.
 
The one in the front will be a crank style jack.

Would yall suggest the two in the rear be a pinned foot or a crank jack?

I am going to return the hitch I have now for one that can be adjusted. I have seen hitches that have four bolts going through a plate with an upper and lower set of holes.
 
brokeass4runner said:
The one in the front will be a crank style jack.
Would yall suggest the two in the rear be a pinned foot or a crank jack?
I am going to return the hitch I have now for one that can be adjusted. I have seen hitches that have four bolts going through a plate with an upper and lower set of holes.
Click to expand...

I would use pined. Why, simplistic.
 
I also don't put them all the way down. Drop them down so they're ~1" off the ground, slide the pin back in. If you put them down too far, the weight of the rig can keep you from raising them once you're done loading.

Pins are faster, too.
 
Got the axles in last night. They may be to tall without a drop. I guess I will see on Sat.
 

Attachments

  • Trailer Axles 1.jpeg
    Trailer Axles 1.jpeg
    52.3 KB · Views: 447
Going to be to tall? Use your imagination.
 

Attachments

  • Trailer Axle 3.jpeg
    Trailer Axle 3.jpeg
    49.3 KB · Views: 423
brokeass4runner said:
The straight axles are getting replaced with 4" drop.
Click to expand...
Why
Most builders use 6" C with the same axles you have now.
When you use drops it will change the spring placement from the ones I looked at.
What reason for turning your 6" C to the outside?
Jon
 
MR. GADGET said:
Why
Most builders use 6" C with the same axles you have now.
When you use drops it will change the spring placement from the ones I looked at.
What reason for turning your 6" C to the outside?
Jon
Click to expand...

What about the spring placement changes?

I turned it out because of the way that the tongue ties into the frame. I am also going to run some gussets from the frame rails to the cross pieces so turning the C out gave me a flat surface to weld on.

The site won't let me attach pics right now. It says that they are not valid?
 
turning the channel makes it much easier to put the supports on under the decking. Otherwise he'll spend hours coping the supports to match the flange of the channel.

looking good.

Rob
 
like rob said C out is MUUUUUCH easier.

It also adds protection for all the marker lights :flipoff2:
 
Back
Top