Trailer Build

upnover said:
OK, let's look at this logically. This is going to be one heavy mother of a trailer. If the material is ordered, and not cut yet or even delivered, you can send it back. Even if they charge a small restocking fee, it'll be worth it. If you go as planned you will be able to haul the trailer around empty, and that's about it. Towing that much weight with a Tahoe is just extremely dangerous.
Your sig says "welder in training" you also said this is a school project. Do you trust your welds enough to actually carry the capacity of this to built trailer?
You also thanks us for the advice, but you are standing firm on your build and not taking any advice that is being offered. A lot of those offering your advice have experience in building trailers. Many have experience in welding, and many have experience in towing.
Step back and think logically. I myself am a believer in the " there is no success like excess" rule, but even I draw the line at practicability.
Also, tongue length is a little too short in my opinion. It will really decrease your turning radius. Another thought is the tongue jack. What kinda of capacity can you buy, will you be able to unhook with a load on it, and will you be able to get the jack up with your arm strength?
"Age and treachery will overcome youth and vigor every time"
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Do you know what your trailer weighs? Is it around 18 feet total with the dovetail?

The material is already here. I am taking pieces of advice where I can. I am not trying to blow your opinions off.

I am in a Fab class with a master fabricator as my teacher. I have talked to him about the weight issue and he thinks that I should build it to be able to haul what the axles can hold. I have discussed the channel size and deck material with him. Because he is my teacher and will be giving me my grade I have to favor his opinion.

I am in school for welding, I trust my welds any day over someone I don't even know. I can control the heat and the penetration. I spend 5 days a week in class welding and testing those welds.

So yes I trust my welds.

I will be shopping for a diesel after the trailer is done. Can I not find one big enough to tow a heavy trailer like I am making?

Can you lend me some advice outside of sending all the metal back and reordering new stuff?

Thanks
 
We unloaded the steel today.
What I actually got was a different from the list above.
20' legs of 6" channel = approx. 656 pounds of 6"
8 - 20' legs of 3" channel = approx. 656 pounds of 3"
6 - sheets of 1/8" diamond plate carbon steel = approx. 960 pounds
2 - legs of 4 x4 x 1/4" angle = approx. 264 pounds of 4x4x1/4
1 - leg of 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle = approx. 33 pounds of 2x2x1/8
Equals 2569 lbs.
10% waste = 2312 lbs.
I could cut the lenght down to 18'. Maybe cut a section down the middle of the trailer.
 

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Weights I estimated from actual steel sizes and weights. You may have ordered light duty channel, which would weigh less...

You are in school for welding, not trailer building. I've been to a CC welding class and other than welding, most teachers have zero knowledge of proper trailer fabrication (although there are some good ones out there). Remember, someone who can weld (even the best welder in the world) is not necessairly a fabricator...

There has been a lot of good info here. As a student, you should listen to everyone's opinions, ideas, or thoughts because most have "been there and done that". What you do with that information is what will determine wether you remain a student (not necessairly in school, either...)

Rob
 
The way I see it.
I have built 2 trailers. The first crappy as hell. The 2nd Im happy with. All my welds are not professional quality as far as looks but I know how to get good peneetration and strength. This ahs been learned throuugh years of trial and error, I know zero formulas for rod or amp settings on a buzz box and less on a mig machine... Ive never attempted to TIG never had acces to the equipment.

Having said that, build what you want. You will live with the consequences either way. As long as this isnt a for sale project, have fun. But if you want something with mass appeal listn to others opinions.

FWIW, by my calcs (and there are rough estimates) using your numbers you should be able to LEGALLY tow your trailer behind a 2500 truck (pick your brand) and about 500lbs of weight on your trailer. f course if you have a class a forget this part.
:beer:
 
ShyHiK5 said:
FWIW, by my calcs (and there are rough estimates) using your numbers you should be able to LEGALLY tow your trailer behind a 2500 truck (pick your brand) and about 500lbs of weight on your trailer. f course if you have a class a forget this part.
:beer:
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A 2500?

500 lbs?

What is a reasonable weight for a complete trailer without a load?
 
brokeass4runner said:
The axles im looking at now are from Northern Tool. They are rated at 6000 lbs and there will be a brake at each wheel. Your right about the weight thing though.
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I don't think I saw it mentioned...

but isn't 10,000lbs GVWR the break point for a trailer to need a different class of license?

I know with my CDL that a Class B handles any trailer up to 10,000...but you need a Class A to haul a trailer over 10,000...

just something to consider...

Greg
 
brokeass4runner said:
What is a reasonable weight for a complete trailer without a load?
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I beleive the one Im going to buy is around 3000 pounds. Its 20 feet with a 4 foot dove tail and rated to carry 6 tons. It looks alot like the one your going to build except its a deckover and the floor is wood. As far as towing a trailer that big with a tahoe, I really wouldnt recomend it. I towed with a half ton truck for a while and will never tow a full size rig on a heavy trailer with one again. Just my two cents.
 
bigwaylon said:
I don't think I saw it mentioned...
but isn't 10,000lbs GVWR the break point for a trailer to need a different class of license?
I know with my CDL that a Class B handles any trailer up to 10,000...but you need a Class A to haul a trailer over 10,000...
just something to consider...
Greg
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It's alllll in what you stamp it for.. :D
 
brokeass4runner said:
A 2500?
500 lbs?
What is a reasonable weight for a complete trailer without a load?
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2500=25= 3/4 ton truck of your choosing
10,000lbs lbs is the combined vehicle/trailer/load weight.

Not saying it isnt broken daily.
But when DOT get mean they get real mean.
If you get put on roadisde scales, dont expect to come out for less $2500 in my experience.

Good Luck

I look forward to watching this buildup.
 
yeah sorry got pulled aside and came back and didnt complete my thought

10k tralier and load

26k total (vehicle/trailer/load) weight.

:beer:
 
Alright, I have tried to talk to the teacher about doing a wood deck and thats not really an option.

So how about a 16' x 8' deck including dove tail with a section cut out down the middle covered with some expanded metal?

Would that be a reasonable enough weight drop?

If so how wide would the section be?
 
I think the weight argument is aimed at your choice of 6" stock.
The plate versus wood argument is a separate argument, IMO
 
I undersand that 6" may be too much.

But we have 3 factory built car trailers in our shop yard.

One is 20' long with 8" channel.

The other two are around 16' long with 6".

So thats what I had to go by when doing my design. I cant send it back because I have to start building on Sat.
 
As far as the middle goes, measure the inside tire to tire of the smallest car you might haul. That will give you an idea of how narrow the inside will be. Use heavy spanned metal. Tack it every where possible to keep it from sagging. Also, before you asked for other ideas, I did mention one, lengthening the tongue. As mentioned the metal is slick when wet, not much better when dry. You can mix sand in your paint and it helps a lot. A good paint will do best, epoxy paint it what I have seen last longest. It all will wear in time, but you just do it again. My rig is 118 wheel base. My trailer is 16' with 2' more in dove tail. But it all fits on the 16' part. Before the dovetail I hauled a couple long wheelbase trucks. I could get them on it, but had to remove the ramps(fold up type) Slide in ramps are my preference. I have also seen some that slid in on the side, I kinda liked that set up better than my rear slide in ones.
 
upnover said:
Slide in ramps are my preference. I have also seen some that slid in on the side, I kinda liked that set up better than my rear slide in ones.
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Really.. mine slide into the side, and I think they're a PITA to slide all the way out and carry them around...
 
OK, so overall do you think I can drop enough weight with the dropped length and the expanded metal middle section?

Right now I am thinking the tongue is going to be around 3 1/2'. Is that about right?
 
Rich said:
Really.. mine slide into the side, and I think they're a PITA to slide all the way out and carry them around...
Click to expand...
I have had issue with mine when I scrape the bottom, knocking out the holding pins, bad design on my part. My trailer sits reall low.
 
brokeass4runner said:
OK, so overall do you think I can drop enough weight with the dropped length and the expanded metal middle section?
Right now I am thinking the tongue is going to be around 3 1/2'. Is that about right?
Click to expand...

I have no idea how to figure the difference without knowing the weights

I measured my tongue on my trailer, it's 48"
 
Rich said:
It's alllll in what you stamp it for.. :D
Click to expand...


just what I was gonna say...



Also, I think 3.5' is too short for a tonngue. 4-5' is about right, depending on axle and weight location.

taking the middle out of the deck will help with weight. Adding expanded metal won't do much for use or weight. I'd leave it out. Shorten the trailer to 16' with a 2' dovetail, space the ribs out to about 18" at least. You don't need the side rails on the trailer, unless you just want them. I like the fold up ramps cause its easy to see the trailer in the rear view mirror when backing up.

Rob
 
Here is what I have got now.

Deck over the wheels 16ft. long including 2ft. dove tail, tongue 4ft. long.

Expanded metal is pretty light. Would it not help to have it their to walk on or just to keep things from possibly rolling off?

I will most likely leave the side rails off.
 

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hey man, just saw this. looks like you have some good ideas and good advice coming. i'll keep an eye on this thread and let me know when you finish up so you can tow the tj around :flipoff2:
 
I would either make the whole deck solid, or do the expanded metal like you are planning. My gooseneck is open in the middle, and I don't like the hole there - I have to think about it when walking on/across the trailer, and straps/chains drop down in there by accident when trying to hook them up. The hole in the deck is also wide enough that I could drop one of my tractor tires in it if not VERY careful - have almost done this several times. I'll be adding plate to cover the open center on mine as soon as I have time.

Also, on my old small car hauler I used to have, I stepped through the hole in the middle and cut up my leg (could have been much worse) when I was in a hurry one time and wasn't paying attention.
 
I am leaning toward the deck over now. I figured that since I am going to section the middle I as well just have a full deck to utilize.

Any objections? Should I stick with the fenders?
 
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