My neused to rig. Finally

I have heard of these unit bearing problems before. Is it possible to change them over to the old style?
 
braxton357 said:
For the price, it would be a much better idea to swap in an old kingpin 60...
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Old KP 60s are narrower and have much smaller brakes. You'd have to adapt the ABS, too.

If it's a question of buying a pair of unit bearing hubs or converting the spindles-out, those conversion kits aren't a bad deal.
 
saf-t scissors said:
Old KP 60s are narrower and have much smaller brakes. You'd have to adapt the ABS, too.
If it's a question of buying a pair of unit bearing hubs or converting the spindles-out, those conversion kits aren't a bad deal.
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Was talking about a ford kp 60 rather than a dodge. It's the same width and has almost the same brakes/dual piston calipers... I've already disabled my ABS anyway.

Why throw $2100 into a balljoint 60?
 
braxton357 said:
Was talking about a ford kp 60 rather than a dodge. It's the same width and has almost the same brakes/dual piston calipers... I've already disabled my ABS anyway.
Why throw $2100 into a balljoint 60?
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Nooooo... it doesn't. Unless maybe you're talking about 2nd Gen Dodge?? The Ford only has a ~12" rotor, the Dodge is a shade bigger than 14".

3rd Gens are something like 72-73" WMS, Ford D60s are 69-70". Swing a Ford D60 under a Dodge, and you're going to have to build new links and mounts and everything, since there's barely enough room between the frame and the tire as it is.
 
Cperry said:
the ball joints suck b/c they ar 3/4 ton ball joints. do yourself a favor and take the unit bearing out while its still nice and new. Take a flap disk to the inside of the spindle or the unit bearing and then liberally coat them with anti sieze. I have had multiple unit bearing dodges where the unit bearing gets siezed to the spindle and when i say siezed i mean make you want to commit suicide siezed.
We put an overdrive unit on a 06 last month for a customer that builds trench diggers. they typically do there own work. he asked if i would throw some balljoints on it while i had it on the lift. I said yes but if the bearings were siezed he was paying by the hour and I would do my best to save the unit bearings.
They were siezed, i called him and told him.... and after his mechanic got on the phone and explained to me how i was doing it wrong....... 2 of their mechanics came out the next morning. they brought a 20 lb sledge and I giggeled for 7 hours while they destoyed both rotors and a wheel bearing sensor.
ANTI SIEZE is your friend. the unit bearings have to come off to do ball joints and they are expensive.
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This may be a rookie question but what exactly is a unit bearing? I've never had or worked on one of these trucks.
 
lockedup5 said:
This may be a rookie question but what exactly is a unit bearing? I've never had or worked on one of these trucks.
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Back when things were built right and well engineered, the knuckle had a spindle that bolted onto it. The hub had bearing races (cups) pressed into it, and tapered roller bearings went on the inside and outside face of the hub, held on by a large nut on the spindle that was either torqued to spec or had a specified endplay. The bearings lasted forever, were cheap, and were easy to change if you had a big socket or could get a chisel on it.

Then, this thing called the 80's occurred, and the manufacturers decided that it was cheaper to build the hub and spindle as one non-serviceable assembly that would last "long enough". The non-serviceable assembly bolted on to the knuckle, and was one unit with bearings in it, hence the term "unit bearing".

On jeeps, it is a ball-bearing, which is great for roller blade wheels, but really doesn't handle wear and forces like a tapered roller bearing. Not sure about the truck stuff, but I bet its the same. Also on jeeps, its a single ball bearing, instead of two tapered roller bearings, which is crappy. I replaced 3 of them in 50k miles.
 
about the unit bearings and ball joints. i have an 03 that i pull around 12-14000lbs with an average of 300-400 miles per week and i am still on the originals. my truck had 51k miles on it when i got it and now it has 125k. i have just had to replace the brakes all the way around and it was very easy just like you said. it was funny but the rear pads were wore worse than the front. the squealers were touching in the rear.

i did have to install a new lift pump about 3000 miles ago. your 05 should be in the tank and it should last longer. i also have an 80hp chip which probably worked the pump a little harder. i really like the flat bed, i am going to put one on my dually one day.
 
The diverter doors and the recirculator door in the HVAC assembly break, requiring removal of the entire dashboard and the HVAC assembly to replace $20 in parts.

It's fawking bullshit.
 
It's only an 81/2' bed so no. It would be nice though. The flat bed is being converted to a dump bed tomorrow. Hopefully I can finish it tomorrow evening. I've always wanted a small dump cause it will be handy in the work I do. When I get it finished I will try to post some pics.
 
I guess I'm going to hang on to it. I like it alot. I've already put 3700 miles on it since June 1 and about 2600 miles of that has been pulling a loaded heavy trailer and it hasn't disappointed me at all. Plus I've already put quite a bit of money in making it a dump. YOur not the only one wanting it cause the two days it sat at the car lot after me having it transfered to Hickory there was at least 6-7 people wanting it according to the salesman. I'm glad I put a deposit on it.
 
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