Lawn and Landscape

jcramsey said:
My yard is a smorgasbord of weeds, but I would be happy as long as I could eliminate these spurs from ever coming back. They will die off when it hits about 85 or so, but the spurs still remain for a while. Our dog will go out of his way to avoid walking in the yard.

Any tips for controlling these things?

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That is called lawn burweed

You have St Augustine grass

Either spray Celsius at 5oz per acre or Speedzone Southern at 66oz per acre

Use a surfactant with both
 
trailhugger said:
So I treated for grubs with Dylox in October, with the impression that I should do so again in the spring. I'm finding conflicting info about timing... Some literature says before May 15. Some says not within a week or two of fertilizer with pre-emergent... What says the pros?
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Merit applied to the lawn in late May

Dylox applied in the fall, your on the right track
 
drkelly said:
Good memory. I tilled in compost about 4 years ago, then did it again about 2.5 years ago after the front yard was destroyed due to building our back patio. I did have trouble with moles/voles creating tunnels in the yard over the past couple of years. I put down some GrubEx in January. Do you have any recommendations for soil testing? Do they sell a home test kit? I did it once right after the house was built. I had to drive down to the Guilford County Agriculture office or something which is a long way from my house and work.
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Are you using a fungicide on your fescue from May until July?
 
guffey24 said:
Merit applied to the lawn in late May

Dylox applied in the fall, your on the right track
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I've got more dylox. The guy at site one seemed to think it was on the right track probably it down again.

Is isn't too late for fert/pre-em?
 
guffey24 said:
Are you using a fungicide on your fescue from May until July?
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No. I bought some last year with the intention of putting it down, but forgot about it.
 
trailhugger said:
I've got more dylox. The guy at site one seemed to think it was on the right track probably it down again.

Is isn't too late for fert/pre-em?
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Merit is a pre and post grub product, so it will prevent most of the hatch from ever coming out, and kill infant grubs, best applied in the last week of May, first week of June,

Dylox will only kill and will not prevent hatches, best applied during the summer and into the fall

Have you applied any pre-m?

I always say put some out even at a reduced rate, it may prevent some weeds, but you won’t get full weed prevention

Tell me what product you want to use and the percentage of active ingredient and I can tell you how much to put out and still be able to seed in the fall if it’s fescue
 
drkelly said:
No. I bought some last year with the intention of putting it down, but forgot about it.
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Headway G, is a granular fungicide that works great if applied right, and what I mean by that is

Put it out on wet turf or dew early in the morning, let it sit all day, then water off the next morning

If it’s applied to dry turf it’s very inaffective
 
guffey24 said:
Merit is a pre and post grub product, so it will prevent most of the hatch from ever coming out, and kill infant grubs, best applied in the last week of May, first week of June,

Dylox will only kill and will not prevent hatches, best applied during the summer and into the fall
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Ok. Based on what I read, I thought Dylox would kill all stages but maybe not eggs?

guffey24 said:
Have you applied any pre-m?

I always say put some out even at a reduced rate, it may prevent some weeds, but you won’t get full weed prevention

Tell me what product you want to use and the percentage of active ingredient and I can tell you how much to put out and still be able to seed in the fall if it’s fescue
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I put out half of the calculated rate of Lesco 17-0-6 fert with pre-em on March 9 (based on Cooperative Extension and Site One recommendations) and was planning on the second half 8 weeks later (this weekend, basically). I used a calculator I found that took into account the soil report numbers and seemed legit but :confused:

I picked up the product on Friday morning and the new spreader arrived last night and was assembled this am...

My instinct was to hold off on the pre-em and work on soil composition (more lime and gypsum, maybe 10-10-10 to get more phosphorus?), based on the soil report from the fall. I'm obviously open to suggestions.

We are planning to aerate and overseed with fescue again in the fall... we are modifying the composition of the existing, which was pretty coarse and weedy, bermuda + crap and this fall will be the second time aerating and the third time overseeding. Fall '16 we used transitional blend seed from Site One, this past fall we used transitional blend and I also added tall fescue blend to the very sunny and outer reaches of the yard, hoping it will be more drought-tolerant.

Thanks, in advance!
 
trailhugger said:
Ok. Based on what I read, I thought Dylox would kill all stages but maybe not eggs?



I put out half of the calculated rate of Lesco 17-0-6 fert with pre-em on March 9 (based on Cooperative Extension and Site One recommendations) and was planning on the second half 8 weeks later (this weekend, basically). I used a calculator I found that took into account the soil report numbers and seemed legit but :confused:

I picked up the product on Friday morning and the new spreader arrived last night and was assembled this am...

My instinct was to hold off on the pre-em and work on soil composition (more lime and gypsum, maybe 10-10-10 to get more phosphorus?), based on the soil report from the fall. I'm obviously open to suggestions.

We are planning to aerate and overseed with fescue again in the fall... we are modifying the composition of the existing, which was pretty coarse and weedy, bermuda + crap and this fall will be the second time aerating and the third time overseeding. Fall '16 we used transitional blend seed from Site One, this past fall we used transitional blend and I also added tall fescue blend to the very sunny and outer reaches of the yard, hoping it will be more drought-tolerant.

Thanks, in advance!
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Dylox will kill in all stages but won’t prevent a hatch, only lasts about 2 weeks in the ground, Merit will last about 3 months, water both in very good

I never recommend putting out another high nitrogen pre-emerge on fescue in the spring, you do need another half rate of pre-emerge to complete your cycle though, maybe a 0-0-7 with dimension at another half rate

Got a copy of the soil report you could email me, most university tests give generic recommendations using generic fertilizer codes like 16-4-8. I can make a few recommendations off your soil test
 
We've also gotta do something about the moles. Killing the grubs helps, I guess.
 
shawn said:
We've also gotta do something about the moles. Killing the grubs helps, I guess.
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I tried all sorts of stuff (chemical and natural) to prevent the food source and that didn’t work so I finally went mid-evil. Works like a charm and doesn’t make a mess in the yard.
B03A106F-F262-4003-A865-5A2E3779DF0B.jpeg
 
skyhighZJ said:
I tried all sorts of stuff (chemical and natural) to prevent the food source and that didn’t work so I finally went mid-evil. Works like a charm and doesn’t make a mess in the yard.
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Those things work great. They work for groundhogs as well with some modification.

*EDIT* all of mine are the old school all metal spring load spikes of death and dismemberment.
 
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skyhighZJ said:
I tried all sorts of stuff (chemical and natural) to prevent the food source and that didn’t work so I finally went mid-evil. Works like a charm and doesn’t make a mess in the yard.
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Interesting. Our dog kills a few a year, but he's probably not making a dent in the overall population.

The reviews on those traps say "meh".... mostly because the trap is plastic and breaks easily.
 
shawn said:
Interesting. Our dog kills a few a year, but he's probably not making a dent in the overall population.

The reviews on those traps say "meh".... mostly because the trap is plastic and breaks easily.
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Maybe if they were out in the sun all summer they may get brittle but they seem well made for the $15 price tag. I had a couple spaced out and I have got results earlier this spring. So far I haven’t had any fresh mounds so they are stored in the shed. I also tried one of the metal “scissor” types and it didn’t do shit. The moles just tunneled right around those I think cause they made to much of in ground signature.

Edit: I also did some research on the little bastards to understand their food and habits. At least around here they are territorial and depending on the affected area it may only be 1-2 moles per acre. They will mate and the offspring will move to another area to establish themselves but it depends on what you have tunneling around.351F66D3-EC58-4F62-9EFA-1D17B0E4E4CE.jpegThis is what I have down here
 
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skyhighZJ said:
Maybe if they were out in the sun all summer they may get brittle but they seem well made for the $15 price tag. I had a couple spaced out and I have got results earlier this spring. So far I haven’t had any fresh mounds so they are stored in the shed. I also tried one of the metal “scissor” types and it didn’t do shit. The moles just tunneled right around those I think cause they made to much of in ground signature.

Edit: I also did some research on the little bastards to understand their food and habits. At least around here they are territorial and depending on the affected area it may only be 1-2 moles per acre. They will mate and the offspring will move to another area to establish themselves but it depends on what you have tunneling around.View attachment 267931This is what I have down here
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via Imgflip Meme Generator
 
shawn said:
We've also gotta do something about the moles. Killing the grubs helps, I guess.
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Getting rid of the grubs will not get rid of moles, BIG MYTTH

will it help sure, but a moles favorite food source is a earth worm, insecticides that kill grubs don’t kill earthworms

Best thing we sell is Talprid worms, poison worms, but not recommended in areas where dogs live
 
shawn said:
We've also gotta do something about the moles. Killing the grubs helps, I guess.
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guffey24 said:
Getting rid of the grubs will not get rid of moles, BIG MYTTH

will it help sure, but a moles favorite food source is a earth worm, insecticides that kill grubs don’t kill earthworms

Best thing we sell is Talprid worms, poison worms, but not recommended in areas where dogs live
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And you really don't want to kill earthworms, they are SO beneficial. Do research like SkyHi did and learn to find their home and dig them up and "relocate". it's illegal to kill them in NC. Ive never had luck with the Talprid worms. Castor beans planted on top of their tunnels are supposed to kill them but cant use that around dogs either.
 
I picked up my second round of fert and pre em today at SiteOne and got 5-0-17 with Dimension. It has iron in it for a green up without the high nitrogen that may help the fungus grow. If you do not overwater or have a sprinkler system then you can probably use a 13-0-5 product but I wouldn't go any higher with nitrogen (first number) than that.
 
R Q said:
And you really don't want to kill earthworms, they are SO beneficial. Do research like SkyHi did and learn to find their home and dig them up and "relocate". it's illegal to kill them in NC. Ive never had luck with the Talprid worms. Castor beans planted on top of their tunnels are supposed to kill them but cant use that around dogs either.
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I had chem worms and grubs that I put in their burrows per the instruction sheets and I’d come out the next morning to find them sitting neatly on top of the mound I had inserted them into!! Little fuckers pulled my last string at that point. If you know what your after they aren’t all off limits and as far as I know it’s just the Star Nose that’s off limits. Double check but I think standard moles like pictured above are fair game. Voles, gophers, and ground squirrels also all have different habits, food sources and tracks (mounds) so you can typically narrow it down to define your enemy.
BBB75DD7-4936-4730-9CC0-AA4C324EF658.jpeg
 
R Q said:
And you really don't want to kill earthworms, they are SO beneficial. Do research like SkyHi did and learn to find their home and dig them up and "relocate". it's illegal to kill them in NC. Ive never had luck with the Talprid worms. Castor beans planted on top of their tunnels are supposed to kill them but cant use that around dogs either.
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North Carolina now labels a mole as a nuisance, and it’s legal to kill them, they passed that about a year ago
 
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