Help a nOOb set up his Coil-Overs in Winston

Tk1 racing, Pac racing springs

Matt
 
I'm not a fan of the TK1 bars. I break enough of them I keep a spare. I could probably be one and done with a PAC by now:rolleyes:

Interesting, that's the first negative thing I've heard about them. I have several friends up north racing with them, who have highly recommended them.

What's failing on them? Just curious.
 
Breaking the bars in half, I'm not the only one I know of that's breaking them either. I don't know anyone that's had any issues out of Currie or PAC. That's a sweet buggy you have.
 
Breaking the bars in half, I'm not the only one I know of that's breaking them either. I don't know anyone that's had any issues out of Currie or PAC. That's a sweet buggy you have.


Thanks Man, I appreciate that!

I'm afraid Curries won't be stiff enough. I know PAC's are big $$$!

Are you running the Rock crawler or the Ultra 4 one?
 
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Breaking the bars in half, I'm not the only one I know of that's breaking them either. I don't know anyone that's had any issues out of Currie or PAC. That's a sweet buggy you have.
If you are breaking them in half you are likely over twisting them. All sway bars have a max rotation before failure.

Longer arms will allow more travel with the same rotation, or less rotation with the same travel. It will also translate into the bar being less effective, so may need a stiffer one.
 

 

 

 

 

 
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I like the results of moving the ride height down 2", and having to remount the shocks. May be able to only remount the lower shock mounts and get the 2" needed.

Im not positive this is the best choice yet, as I want to play some more, and see what can be achieved leaving the shocks and ride height where they are, and only move the links.

Trying to find the compromise that nets the biggest improvements with the minimum work.
 
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One thing I'll add and maybe a little late (or beside the point). As dumb as it may sound to some of you, these bypasses are for my ride comfort first and foremost. I have some lower back issues, the BP's combined with properly setup coilover are the really the only way I'm able to still ride.

While I want it to preform as good as possible, it's not pretending to be a trophy truck, if anything it's pretending to be a Cadillac with 43" tires. What I'm trying to say is, I'd like it as good as possible without a complete redesign.

I hope this doesn't come across as ungrateful for all the input so far, that would be far from the truth. I'm enjoying the comradery and the tech of it all.

Please carry on.
 
Understandable.

All the more reason to set up and valve correctly. BP, CO, and geometry.

When I added coilovers to the buggy I valved them a time or two, and Wayne said I had it better than 80%. And it rode great; two hours with Wayne and it was even better! Fast or slow it didn't matter. Super stable off camber. We tuned it under the conditions of 30-50mph over a hare scramble type motocross track. I know that sounds like nothing we ride on, but even on our frequented trails it still rode better than ever. Better even than the ORI'S they replaced, & I tuned on them mercilessly. (Not knocking ori, they are fantastic trail riding dampers).

No one likes to re-engineer a working/wheelable unit, but especially for the reasons you mentioned...you need it correct.


I hope you get the rig to the level you want it Dave!

Matt
 
I'm with you Matt, I was just making sure we were all on the same page with my intended use of this buggy.

Thanks again!
 
I'm not a fan of the TK1 bars. I break enough of them I keep a spare. I could probably be one and done with a PAC by now:rolleyes:

Thanks for sharing!!!

Do you have specs?
Arm Length
Bar Width
Active Diameter

Wondering it they're weak or your bar is just overstressed.
 
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Thanks for sharing!!!

Do you have specs?
Arm Length
Bar Width
Active Diameter

Wondering it they're weak or your bar is just overstressed.
I'll try to get that up this week. They informed me on my 3rd one I was at the upper limit of the bars specs and a wider one would help. This isn't easily done given my chassis and rear steer on a narrowed axle. Then factor in I have met others with very similar bars and as much travel with no issues, just a different brand.
 
I'll try to get that up this week. They informed me on my 3rd one I was at the upper limit of the bars specs and a wider one would help. This isn't easily done given my chassis and rear steer on a narrowed axle. Then factor in I have met others with very similar bars and as much travel with no issues, just a different brand.

If they are using a smaller/thinner bar to get the spring rate vs another company with a larger/thicker bar, that will make a huge difference in torsion strength.
 
Tk1 bar is working fine for me had it Bout a year i know they did a redesign before i got mine i have seen a pac one and was not very impressed also im just cheap lol

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And the fun begins.
 
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