Bent Fab CH2

6322808D-DC48-4CAF-BFBF-3929684F88BA.jpeg
74E0AE7D-74D8-47F9-B3C8-CACE67F1EEEB.jpeg
 
Pritchett canyon into behind the rocks, and exiting by picture frame arch was epic. Buggy did excellent, need to finish the last bit of polishing.
In SLC for our flight tomorrow so had to have in-n-out. It’s starting to become a tradition that is our dinner before travel day. Dbl dbl animal style, wellies, and choc shake.
66567B1A-E047-41E0-B525-CCD778DB6A43.jpeg
FD868AF9-5D09-417C-99ED-A713E7C0BD28.jpeg
 
Dang I was in SLC this morning
 
Bebop said:
Ddi you ever end up spending more time tuning the ORIs on this thing?
Click to expand...

It’s on the list of things to do, but waiting to make sure it’s not getting internal bypass coilovers before we pull the trigger of going back into them.

It needs it for sure. Lots of room on the table in these for improvement once you throw the factory recommended settings out the window.

It needs faster rebound in the rear badly.

Slightly faster in the front.

More compression damping in the front and less in the rear.

The problem with that is that it will need a sway bar in the rear if we get the struts really working well.

Heck we might throw some air shocks on it with my valve stacks just for giggles.

I’m hoping he chooses to send these and go to coilover/bypass, internal byp, or air shocks 🤣🤣.

That said. They are still a good option for a lot of people. Ignorance is bliss, and a Swiss Army knife works for 75% of the things you need it for, but doesn’t do any of those things well.
 
Mac5005 said:
Current status.

Spun 2 rod bearings after oil psi sensor failed and spewed oil out the top of motor in Arkansas. Running low on oil killed the 2 rod bearings.
Click to expand...

That fucking sucks. Mine did exactly that on the dyno.
Friend had the same problem at Harlan last year but since my mishap I was carrying an extra sensor and the socket and was able to change it on the trail and save his engine.
 
Bebop said:
That fucking sucks. Mine did exactly that on the dyno.
Friend had the same problem at Harlan last year but since my mishap I was carrying an extra sensor and the socket and was able to change it on the trail and save his engine.
Click to expand...
It pushed 2+ qts out when it failed on steep Arkansas climbs. Changed the sensor and refilled oil before bear wallow, but finally spun a couple in a bear wallow beat down 🤣.

But back original question and to the ORI’s.

Been keeping a list of what to change in them, but had been waiting for a break between trips to open them up.

Just so happened that the bearings left the chat the week before my daughter was born, so shop time is at a minimum right now.

We were going to increase the gap on the rebound adjuster from .005 to .015 in the rear. Think massive change hopefully too much, and to put the adjuster in a useable range vs all the way open all the Time.

The front rebound adjuster at .005 clearance is pretty good. Weren’t going to touch the fronts yet until we got some rear results.

Also going to go to 0w oil in the lower chambers on the rear.

May go 0w in the front lowers and then 7w or 10w in the front uppers.

My dad brain memory is foggy and id have to check my notes, but I think all chambers are 5w after the rebuild last year.

Wanted to see the data on the rebound adjuster gap and different weight oils and go from there.

Being that most of the orfices are relatively small compared to normal shock pistons, the viscosity changes should net decent results before really going enginerd on tuning then. Then it’s just cost/reward.

Start with the easy stuff first.
 
Last edited:
Mac5005 said:
It pushed 2+ qts out when it failed on steep Arkansas climbs. Changed the sensor and refilled oil before bear wallow, but finally spun a couple in a bear wallow beat down 🤣.

But back original question and to the ORI’s.

Been keeping a list of what to change in them, but had been waiting for a break between trips to open them up.

Just so happened that the bearings left the chat the week before my daughter was born, so shop time is at a minimum right now.

We were going to increase the gap on the rebound adjuster from .005 to .015 in the rear. Think massive change hopefully too much, and to put the adjuster in a useable range vs all the way open all the Time.

The front rebound adjuster at .005 clearance is pretty good. Weren’t going to touch the fronts yet until we got some rear results.

Also going to go to 0w oil in the lower chambers on the rear.

May go 0w in the front lowers and then 7w or 10w in the front uppers.

My dad brain memory is foggy and id have to check my notes, but I think all chambers are 5w after the rebuild last year.

Wanted to see the data on the rebound adjuster gap and different weight oils and go from there.

Being that most of the orfices are relatively small compared to normal shock pistons, the viscosity changes should net decent results before really going enginerd on tuning then. Then it’s just cost/reward.

Start with the easy stuff first.
Click to expand...
This is the most tech NC4x4 has had in years. Careful, you might break the server :D
 
kcox506 said:
@Mac5005 this is for science since I don't know as much as you. Would changing weight of oil in other shocks, such as King Triple Bypasses have an affect of the performance or would that be negligible?
Click to expand...
Yes it would. Super Small difference, no where near a valving change or turning a screw.

Each shock manufacturer sizes the ports, orfices, and bleeds their way and for a certain viscosity oil.

But we aren’t talking a huge difference between each other.

If you had some older king/fox/saw that have the pistons with less ports or smaller ports, then the difference would be greater.

The same is true for bypasses and the tube size and any bleeds in the clickers.

For example I was in an older set of SAW that had their low flow piston. Crawling only, the shocks never get hot in their application. First step was the lightest oil I had. A change but not enough. Went with the lightest comp valving i could without sucking a shim on rebound stroke.

Still not enough. Ended up drilling the ports out larger to increase the flow, so I could get the valve stack in a useable range. Then went back with a better oil.

After putting the good oil back in, I wasn’t happy with the bleed I drilled using the lighter oil, so back apart to open up the bleed to make up for the slightly heavier but a lot better oil.

Viscosity/weight makes a difference but also the index of the oil plays a huge part, and how the shocks are being used.
 
Last edited:
Mac5005 said:
Yes it would. Super Small difference, no where near a valving change or turning a screw.

Each shock manufacturer sizes the ports, orfices, and bleeds their way and for a certain viscosity oil.

But we aren’t talking a huge difference between each other.

If you had some older king/fox/saw that have the pistons with less ports or smaller ports, then the difference would be greater.

The same is true for bypasses and the tube size and any bleeds in the clickers.

For example I was in an older set of SAW that had their low flow piston. Crawling only, the shocks never get hot in their application. First step was the lightest oil I had. A change but not enough. Went with the lightest comp valving i could without sucking a shim on rebound stroke.

Still not enough. Ended up drilling the ports out larger to increase the flow, so I could get the valve stack in a useable range. Then went back with a better oil.

After putting the good oil back in, I wasn’t happy with the bleed I drilled using the lighter oil, so back apart to open up the bleed to make up for the slightly heavier but a lot better oil.

Viscosity/weight makes a difference but also the index of the oil plays a huge part, and how the shocks are being used.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation. I reckon this would be more negligible in my application. I run Kings and built more for racing than just crawling. Doesn't seem like there would be much to gain for me changing oils. I run whatever King puts in them.
 
kcox506 said:
Thanks for the explanation. I reckon this would be more negligible in my application. I run Kings and built more for racing than just crawling. Doesn't seem like there would be much to gain for me changing oils. I run whatever King puts in them.
Click to expand...
Are you racing on them? Or just rec wheeling and trail riding?

If racing, endurance or short format?
 
kcox506 said:
Endurance if anything. TREC, ECORS style format. At worst ~50 miles at Darkwater 100/Line Mountain or U4 Sportsman Class East Coast at AOP or Windrock. Nothing like KOH.

But occasional rec wheeling inbetween. Mindset is more towards racing.
Click to expand...
He likes to race up the walls of trails too! I got's proof!
 
kcox506 said:
Endurance if anything. TREC, ECORS style format. At worst ~50 miles at Darkwater 100/Line Mountain or U4 Sportsman Class East Coast at AOP or Windrock. Nothing like KOH.

But occasional rec wheeling inbetween. Mindset is more towards racing.
Click to expand...

There are better oils with a better viscosity index compared to king oil. King is a decent oil, but changes a ton from cold/hot.

Schaefer’s oil is good, fox jm92 is very good, and F&L extreme is also very good,

F & L ultra extreme is better for your application due to it being more consistent thru the shocks temps you will see, making your tune more consistent from start to finish.

Just make sure whoever is tuning them is vacuuming everything as bypasses tend to hold air bubbles worse than just reservoir shocks. And specific tuning for your application and race style is paramount.

Anyone else following this, anything from aw-16, aw32 hydraulic oil, fork oil, dex3merc, arctic hydraulic oil, and high speed spindle oil can be used in a pinch for shock oil, and each have their own quirk.

Best to use the oil that the manF recommended or a better oil, but sometimes the best case is not what you have when in a severe bind.
 
Back
Top