66 Coyote swap turbo!

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Location
Newton, NC
This is a very cool job, I'm loving the change of pace from off-road to street rod!
Basically a new Coyote with single turbo, shooting for 750-800hp according to customer.
Using a factory 2020 radiator, just finished getting it in. All frame work and torque boxes in front are done, next will be tying in front to rear unibody rails, rear boxes, rear 4link, new trans tunnel etc..Will try to keep updates here.
20230221_191820.jpg
20230222_072445.jpg
20230222_072636.jpg
20230222_133003.jpg
20230223_120112.jpg
20230228_175112.jpg
20230228_115056.jpg
20230301_084522.jpg
20230301_084557.jpg
20230302_105147.jpg
20230302_105153.jpg
20230302_105219.jpg
 
Cool! But a Godzilla swap is way cooler....
Meh maybe..but that motor doesn't have hardly any support compared to the Coyote which is why he went this route. Still gonna be a bad little pony
 
Meh maybe..but that motor doesn't have hardly any support compared to the Coyote which is why he went this route. Still gonna be a bad little pony
Someone doesn't know much then. There is lot's of support for it. Just go look at all the shit Cletus just put on one.
 
Still not a big aftermarket, nowhere close the coyote

@marty79 are you fabbing the turbo kit?
No doubt on that it's a relatively new motor. But there is quite a bit of support out there for it. Hell you can get a crate motor with 600hp with out a turbo.

 
Awesome.

Just FYI - make sure the customer (or you) installs one of the GOOD 1 piece export braces. The top of the shock towers will fold in if not.

These things are shockingly flimsy upfront.

And the fact that he has a cowl vent cover is a dead giveaway there is hidden rust in the cowl support. (Extremely common in gen 1s)


Personally - I wouldnt turbo it. Those cars are so light and have no room for tires in the rear - unless you tub it and go fuel cell in the trunk area and then add splash sheild and then - Ive got a modest carburetoed small block in my 65 and traction is a myth heard about but sledom seen.
 
Last edited:
No doubt on that it's a relatively new motor. But there is quite a bit of support out there for it. Hell you can get a crate motor with 600hp with out a turbo.

I know you LOVE the Zillas...and so do I.
But in a first gen stang its a bad idea. Its in process right now..but height is a problem. As is width.


Now I am dragging home a cute little Torino project this weekend that my son is already calling the Pimp Daddy Lizard...
 
I know you LOVE the Zillas...and so do I.
But in a first gen stang its a bad idea. Its in process right now..but height is a problem. As is width.


Now I am dragging home a cute little Torino project this weekend that my son is already calling the Pimp Daddy Lizard...
I don't doubt a Zilla is a bad idea in an early Mustang. I would think the Coyote would be a challenge since it is a very wide motor.
godzilla_vs_coyote-1-png.261531


I need more info on the Torino.
 
Yep the Yote are a no go in the 1st gens unless you do a shock tower delete. Ive seen several very well executed Yote 1st gens. Im just a purist and dont like the shaved tower and strut look



This is my engine bay and yes its damn tight

1677794154680.png


So tight that I cant close the hood with a spin on air filter topper. That button head bolt has 1/8" clearance.
Thats the Z2 Boss 363.
I'm 28 15/16 from oil pan to air filter top.

Any taller and you have to drop motor mount - which @marty79 has well covered above and looks really good. But with the Z2 7.5 qt oil pan it would be a speed bump casualty.

Anyway - enough hijack.
Marty - please keep this updated.
 
Any taller and you have to drop motor mount - which @marty79 has well covered above and looks really good. But with the Z2 7.5 qt oil pan it would be a speed bump casualty.

Anyway - enough hijack.
Marty - please keep this updated.
Thanks man and ill try.
Yes I'm doing mini tub kit, etc. This is full build, he's having me do everything
 
Just FYI - make sure the customer (or you) installs one of the GOOD 1 piece export braces. The top of the shock towers will fold in if not.
Expand on this please, thank you. I'm new to hot rod stuff
 
Expand on this please, thank you. I'm new to hot rod stuff
If you pulled the engine there should have been two short arms that went from the top of the shock towers back to the cowl pinch seam. All US non cobras got these style braces.

Now look at the pic I posted of my engine bay. Do you see the solid one piece export brace that triangulated the two shock tower caps and ties to the cowl area? These were originally used only on export mustangs that saw more forces during shipment and race prepped vehicles.

These are critical in this application due to the increased weight and torque of the motor. You won’t have shock tower caps but there are other torsion style “strut arms” that will keep the towers spread.

I’m not super familiar with the tower shave kits - as I said above just not my personal style nothing wrong with them - so I can’t recommend what’s best but I’d look to Global West or Open Tracker they are both long experienced in the first gen stang world.
 
There is or was a complete Godzilla swap parts on FB with 6r140 and whipple and everything needed I believe for $13K in the upstate of SC. Good thing I don't have $13K to throw at an unknown project.
 
There is or was a complete Godzilla swap parts on FB with 6r140 and whipple and everything needed I believe for $13K in the upstate of SC. Good thing I don't have $13K to throw at an unknown project.
The crate-ZillA can be bought for 7250 new from ford.
I’d like to think I could get a trans and front accessory drive for under 6k
 
Awesome.

Just FYI - make sure the customer (or you) installs one of the GOOD 1 piece export braces. The top of the shock towers will fold in if not.

These things are shockingly flimsy upfront.

And the fact that he has a cowl vent cover is a dead giveaway there is hidden rust in the cowl support. (Extremely common in gen 1s)


Personally - I wouldnt turbo it. Those cars are so light and have no room for tires in the rear - unless you tub it and go fuel cell in the trunk area and then add splash sheild and then - Ive got a modest carburetoed small block in my 65 and traction is a myth heard about but sledom seen.

How he going to install or need an export brace with a shock tower delete and coilovers?
Also, everything needs a turbo. I'd have put an ls in it, but glad this one is staying ford, the coyotes sound great with a decent exhaust
 
How he going to install or need an export brace with a shock tower delete and coilovers?
Also, everything needs a turbo. I'd have put an ls in it, but glad this one is staying ford, the coyotes sound great with a decent exhaust
You gotta push the upper inner fenders out or they will “come together - right now “ like the beetles.

Monte Carlo bar and triangulate off that or whatever
 
Motor is sitting in..now making a new trans tunnel and crossmember..will keep updating. (I really wish he hadn't bought the frame crossmember with mounts...screw that crap. Me, him and another friend fought this beast for almost 3hrs cause freaking stupid tight fit on the builders mounts/brackets/ oil pan frame notching. Otherwise nice kit but dam that install lol)
20230307_071936.jpg
20230307_071947.jpg
20230307_145605.jpg
 
Well here's the first part of all of this. There will be more added once he decides on stereo/switches and I'm waiting for the 2020 mustang center console and shifter to show up so I can incorporate that into this..but he loves this so far.
20230308_123748.jpg
20230308_123806.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20230308_123828.jpg
    20230308_123828.jpg
    105.4 KB · Views: 58
Looks good, sir!

FYI the trans tunnels on those unibody cars are the skeletal system that ties everything together. Make sure you have good contact and tie ins to your new tunnel. Ive seen some gnarly twist with very minimal tunnel notching.
 
Looks good, sir!

FYI the trans tunnels on those unibody cars are the skeletal system that ties everything together. Make sure you have good contact and tie ins to your new tunnel. Ive seen some gnarly twist with very minimal tunnel notching.
Would the sub frame connectors coupled with an x brace (like the Mike Maier kit) fix that?
 
Back
Top