Pressure washer leaking

Nissan11

Nissan11

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Location
Marston, NC
I have a campbell hausfeld washer that I bought used several years ago. It works great but has started leaking water from where the valve body attaches to the pump. I took the valve body off and found these hard, brittle seals. I want to replace them but I do not know where to get them. I do not know the brand or model of the pump because they sticker with that info wore off of it. There are numbers stamped on both the main pump housing and valve body but I can not find anything based on those numbers, and campbell hausfeld has not been able to help me through an exchange of emails with pictures. Does anyone know of a store in the Triad area that might have these seals if I take in one of the old ones?



ai130.photobucket.com_albums_p275_nissan11_Mobile_20Uploads_202_20150419_085702_zpsk2d5afzs.jpg


ai130.photobucket.com_albums_p275_nissan11_Mobile_20Uploads_202_20150418_123658_zpskkojs2dv.jpg
 
That's likely an Annovi Reverberi, or AR for short. A manufacturer should be stamped into it somewhere. If you need parts, check out a local small engine shop, taking the entire pump with you for reference. If those seals are gone, I'd be rebuilding the whole thing. Bring your wallet, though!
 
That depends on the initial cost, time of use, condition, and your abilities. I don't know any of those factors, but it'd be a good learning process for you! How are the check valves looking? Should be six of them, I think. FWIW, you can buy a new pressure pump on eBay for under $300.
 
I have not checked the pressure valves yet, I can not get the bolts loose with hand tools. They are on there really tight. Ill break them loose with an impact wrench at work.
I will email AR and see if they claim this pump and maybe give me a model number, or direct me where to find parts here in the states. I took the pump off and there is no name stamped anywhere on it. There was a lot of water in the oil so it definitely needs all new water and oil seals. Also the ceramic plunger tubes appear to be cracked. I removed the nuts on the end of the plungers but can not get the ceramic tube to come off. How do I get the rest of the plunger assembly out of the pump? It looks like there are springs between the cam shaft and plungers? Do I have to remove the cam shaft and pull the assembly out from the back?
I would like to rebuild this pump if I can do it for less than $100.
 
I just put a new AR pump on my John Deere PW (3300psi). It was about $210 online (saw them as high as $350). Money well spent.
The individual pump parts are expensive and after considering everything, a new pump made sense.
My neighbor bought it new and ran it without water pressure and messed it up.
Runs perfect with low hours and except for the pump it was free.
 
ponykilr said:
I just put a new AR pump on my John Deere PW (3300psi). It was about $210 online (saw them as high as $350). Money well spent.
The individual pump parts are expensive and after considering everything, a new pump made sense.
My neighbor bought it new and ran it without water pressure and messed it up.
Runs perfect with low hours and except for the pump it was free.
Click to expand...


You don't think it would be worth it if I could rebuild the pump for half of what a new unit costs?
 
Well, in my experience many parts in these get weak over time. When you replace some of them in an old pump the others do not work up to spec.
AR pumps are very robust, but how many times has it cavitated, run in bypass or been run with low water pressure? All these thing collectively make the pump weaker and prone to fail.

For me I would rather spend a couple hundred on a brand new pump. It has all new parts, comes with a new unloader (these are the cause of a lot of issues and sell for around 50-70 bucks) and new quick connector.

I baby stuff and am anal about running and maintaining equipment properly so I imagine I will never have to touch it again.

Running a PW in bypass KILLS them. Bypass is running engine with handle not squeezed and not spraying. Once the water reaches 140*, damage is quick. 140* can be reached in as little as 20-30 seconds.

Running soaps and bleach through the pump with the factory soap inlet also kills them. Buy an aftermarket soap attachment that injects it after the pump. You will need a low pressure black tip to use it or a tip that can switch to low pressure.

Always disconnect the pressure hose from the pump when you are done with it and if you are putting it up for the season use a kit that injects antifreeze and lube into the pump.
Alternatively you can use a funnel and a piece of an old water hose to get some RV antifreeze into it.
 
Most any Northern Tool store will have the pumps, & some parts. I have a different pump, but I need some new seals. I can get a complete kit through Northern, or try to match on e-bay. I haven't priced it, but could be close to $100.
New pump + $200.
 
AR's tech support emailed me back and told me exactly which pump I have. Since two of the ceramic pistons are cracked, I would need a piston kit @ $92, a water seal kit @ $49 and an oil seal kit @ $40. That is $200 after shipping and to replace this pump with another AR unit would be $450.
 
Im thinking about rebuilding it. The cheapest pump I can find online for my 10hp motor is $285 and that is a General pump brand and it cuts my GPM in half.
 
I'd rebuild it! You'll probably fell better about it, & learn more about how it operates.
I know the guys at Northern, generally sell their customer a new pump. But as they explained, particularly the cheap ones, they can sell the pump at the same cost or cheaper, than parts & Their labor run!
For a couple hundred more than parts, or pump, I can but a complete New PW. But then I'm stuck with the older one. Be hard to get much for a 6 hp Honda. I haven't adapted yet to today's, Throw-a-way, Market!
 
Nissan11 said:
Im thinking about rebuilding it. The cheapest pump I can find online for my 10hp motor is $285 and that is a General pump brand and it cuts my GPM in half.
Click to expand...

Which pump do you have? Mine is a AR-RSV3G30 and is for a 3/4 shaft
I bought the pump package for $209.00 at www.pressureparts.com but it has gone up to $240.30
https://www.pressureparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=AR-RSV3G30-PKG&x=26&y=8

You can get the pump on ebay for $200
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRESSURE-WA...211?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51ce32aba3
 
That is still only 3000PSI, same as RSV3G30 but it is 4GPM. What size shaft do you have and what is the mount pattern size?
 
I see it's a 1" shaft.

Here is an AR pump up to 4000PSI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-Annovi-R...238?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cf5e1888e

Not 100% your 10HP would make 4000PSI with it, but nobody needs that much LOL.



This one is 3000PSI/3GPM, this is enough to do about anything you need to do.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-North-Am...c9aa065&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=231440838562


This one is 3600PSI and 4GPM, it would be overkill in my opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AR-North-Am...c9aa065&pid=100009&rk=1&rkt=1&sd=231440838562
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Man..300 bucks...that's awfully tempting. What are the quick connect hose fittings and the two screw things on my current pump head? Will they just transfer over? What are the screw fitting things, one with a piece of clear hose on it, and what are the two small barbs for?



ai130.photobucket.com_albums_p275_nissan11_Mobile_20Uploads_202_20150421_200326_zpsjdouijy5.jpg
 
They may transfer to a new one. Hard to say if they will or won't. I'm not seeing an unloader on your setup. All I see is two inlets with chemical injectors (the barb fitting upper left and the one with the clear hose upper right) and a discharge. The barbed fitting lower right is not intended to have a hose connected to it. That piece is the thermal protector. It's essentially a piece with wax in it. If the pump overheats, that wax melts and allows water to move through the pump. It may or may not reset if it starts flowing.

Take another picture of it, if you don't mind.
 
Brother, it's like this. You can put bearings in a worn out motor and it will stop knocking and run, but not great.
You can get a new engine for 50% more.... I know what I would do.

The first link I posted above comes with an unloader and is complete. The other two look like they do not come with the unloader.

The quick coupler and inlet should work.
 
Back
Top