Haha! No worries! I'm just glad I got to drive it. Now lots more work to get it ready for the uwharrie fall jamboree. It has some serious power! I'm so friggin' happy about it.
Gone Postal : Mail Jeep Build
- Thread starter 95yjjeep
- Start date
Haha! No worries! I'm just glad I got to drive it. Now lots more work to get it ready for the uwharrie fall jamboree. It has some serious power! I'm so friggin' happy about it.
I did a little more work yesterday. I tore the rear end apart to figure out the popping noise I thought I heard on the test drive and to get it ready for the gears I have on order. I'll be doing the rear 9" gears on Friday with my fiance's dad. I decided on 4.56 gears for the axles instead of the 5.13s I originally planned. I just think the 5.13s are too low for what I need.
Onto some photos. I got a few extra rear postal doors a little while back and after realizing how hot the cab is in the postal during the test drive last weekend I knew I needed to do something about it. My solution, take one of the extra doors, cut it in half then weld it back together.
I curved the sides so they flow with the rear body protection and so the half door still mimics the factory rear window frame.
I reformed the inside pieces and welded and smoothed them out. It just needs a thin coat of body filler and it should look pretty slick.
Onto some photos. I got a few extra rear postal doors a little while back and after realizing how hot the cab is in the postal during the test drive last weekend I knew I needed to do something about it. My solution, take one of the extra doors, cut it in half then weld it back together.
I curved the sides so they flow with the rear body protection and so the half door still mimics the factory rear window frame.I reformed the inside pieces and welded and smoothed them out. It just needs a thin coat of body filler and it should look pretty slick.
UncleWillie
Lost and confused.
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2010
- Location
- Vale
Pretty slick
freaknajeep
Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Location
- tupelo ms
Looking good my friend...awesome job on driveing it...I've since bought another...the new one is a 77 5-d and has the smallblock version of the mopar a727 behind the I6 if my research is correct and from what advance adapter tells me I should be able to rob the rear shaft and adapter housing and bolt my 231 right up...I have already I installed a set of Cherokee axles and redone the floors...check out my other "special delivery" thread at jeep forums...if ya care to...I still haven't driven my first one yet waiting on tubes and stuff to build the d60 rear...have picked up 4:56's and stuff needed for the 44 front...but decided the oneton was to expensive to drive everyday...lol...so trying to whip a dj into a daily but yet make it 4wd as well...isn't that what jeep means...lol
Stuntman Autoworks
Instigator of things
- Joined
- May 6, 2010
- Location
- Sanford NC 27330
Thats awesome man been watching this build for a long time glad to see you got to test drive it finally.
Thanks!
Thanks dude! You are very motivated. I'm still working on the same one. Boo! I'll check out the new build for sure.
Thanks! I'm stoked about driving it. Setting up the gears this friday so hopefully I'll get some stuff worked out so I can drive it again next weekend maybe. Next time hopefully it will have brakes and gears in it.
Burleson
Active Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2012
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Damn this project has come a long way!
Looks like you're working like a man possessed.
If ya need help on Friday, shoot me a PM. I'm not too far from ya, plus I'd like to see this build in person
Cheers!
Looks like you're working like a man possessed.
If ya need help on Friday, shoot me a PM. I'm not too far from ya, plus I'd like to see this build in person
Cheers!
Thanks man! I'm definitely trying to get it ready for the Uwharrie fall jamboree and I have a lot to do to get it ready. It's do-able though! I'm not planning to work in the garage tomorrow night but I appreciate the offer to help. I will probably be out there next Friday though if you're free in a week. Just hit me up.
Burleson
Active Member
- Joined
- May 13, 2012
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
I'll hit ya up next week. I'm finally starting to tear this 8.8 down to get my build underway. I've got 98% of what I need so I'm knocking out what I can when i can.
That said I should be available next week. We'll see how things shake out b
Sounds good Burleson! Let me know if you have any questions about the 8.8 swap. I did one in my YJ and a buddy's TJ recently.
Weekend progress - this and last.
I tore the rear end apart at my fiance's dad's race shop.
Once I got the rear 3rd member torn apart, I couldn't resist but call the guys at Liquid Iron Industries to get one of these jewels. No need for any additional words...
I built a tube bender stand so I could build a baja bin for the back of my postal.
Then a little bit later once I got the main pieces done.
Then with everything welded up and attached to the roll cage. Voila!
Onto some additional photos.
Weekend progress - this and last.
I tore the rear end apart at my fiance's dad's race shop.
Once I got the rear 3rd member torn apart, I couldn't resist but call the guys at Liquid Iron Industries to get one of these jewels. No need for any additional words...
I built a tube bender stand so I could build a baja bin for the back of my postal.
Then a little bit later once I got the main pieces done.
Then with everything welded up and attached to the roll cage. Voila!
Onto some additional photos.
Not much more photo worthy stuff from this weekend. I mounted the hood latches, painted the rear cage baja bin and some other odds and ends. Hopefully the gears will be installed tomorrow afternoon.
I ordered one of Liquid Iron Industry's axle breather vent tube kits along with my Grizzly locker. It was a cool piece and was a really simple install. Drill a hole, tap the pipe thread, install it. Easy enough!!
Working with a new company means more stickers for my fridge.
I ordered one of Liquid Iron Industry's axle breather vent tube kits along with my Grizzly locker. It was a cool piece and was a really simple install. Drill a hole, tap the pipe thread, install it. Easy enough!!
Working with a new company means more stickers for my fridge.
bigblueyj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Woodlawn, VA
It's about time this thing moves under it's own power. It looks awesome and sounds great man. I know you'll love that 5.3. And on top of that it's a big accomplishment to take a project like this and start it from the ground up making it your's all the way. I hope to see it out and about soon. Maybe at Uwharrie.
Thanks bigblueyj! I appreciate that. I can't wait to get it on the trail. If you see me, make sure to introduce yourself. It's definitely been a huge learning experience. I would do it again in a heartbeat!
So normally I don't work on my project during the work week because it's too taxing trying to focus on work and garage time at the same time. I broke the rules this week because I know I have a ton to do to get this thing ready for Uwharrie next month.
That being said. I've been getting the getting the rear end setup so I can finally get it put back together so it's drivable again. I got insurance on it today and I'll be picking up my license plate for it tomorrow. Heck yeahhh!
First off, a little trick I learned from my Fiance's dad. He's the one that setup the ring & pinion for me. The trick is, weld a solid bead around the race of the old axle end wheel bearing and it will pop right out of the housing. I got both sides out in a matter of minutes.
Yukon grizzly locker going in the 9" case with the new bearings and 4.56 gears.
My fiance's dad, Charles Carpenter, drives and tunes ProMod Nitrous cars. This is what he's normally working on. My little 9" was gravy for him. He has a automotive shop also in case anyone else needs a ring & pinion setup. He does phenomenal work and is OCD about making sure everything is exactly right.
Checking backlash. I was basically staring over his shoulder while he worked. I'm trying to learn this process so I can setup my own gears in the future.
All done! Few model shots of it ready to drop back in the housing.
Back in.
Got it all back together tonight and took it for a late night test drive. The cherrybombs really do "disturb the peace". This thing is crazy loud.
I had to do some things to the brakes to get them working. I had to buy another new master cylinder because I didn't bench bleed it right originally. I also had to extend the brake master cylinder pushrod for the brake pedal. The master cylinder is for a 67-75 corvette with manual brakes (AutoZone part #M1371). My brakes are better but they still suck. I definitely can't lock them up like other people running this master cylinder say. Any input on how I can get some more braking power with this setup or another manual master cylinder setup would be greatly appreciated.
I ordered some parts from Barnes 4wd and Liquid Iron Industries. I got some stuff for my rollover vent tube and parts so I can make a traction/anti-wrap bar. I have crazy amounts of axle wrap.
That being said. I've been getting the getting the rear end setup so I can finally get it put back together so it's drivable again. I got insurance on it today and I'll be picking up my license plate for it tomorrow. Heck yeahhh!
First off, a little trick I learned from my Fiance's dad. He's the one that setup the ring & pinion for me. The trick is, weld a solid bead around the race of the old axle end wheel bearing and it will pop right out of the housing. I got both sides out in a matter of minutes.
Yukon grizzly locker going in the 9" case with the new bearings and 4.56 gears.
My fiance's dad, Charles Carpenter, drives and tunes ProMod Nitrous cars. This is what he's normally working on. My little 9" was gravy for him. He has a automotive shop also in case anyone else needs a ring & pinion setup. He does phenomenal work and is OCD about making sure everything is exactly right.
Checking backlash. I was basically staring over his shoulder while he worked. I'm trying to learn this process so I can setup my own gears in the future.
All done! Few model shots of it ready to drop back in the housing.
Back in.
Got it all back together tonight and took it for a late night test drive. The cherrybombs really do "disturb the peace". This thing is crazy loud.
I had to do some things to the brakes to get them working. I had to buy another new master cylinder because I didn't bench bleed it right originally. I also had to extend the brake master cylinder pushrod for the brake pedal. The master cylinder is for a 67-75 corvette with manual brakes (AutoZone part #M1371). My brakes are better but they still suck. I definitely can't lock them up like other people running this master cylinder say. Any input on how I can get some more braking power with this setup or another manual master cylinder setup would be greatly appreciated.
I ordered some parts from Barnes 4wd and Liquid Iron Industries. I got some stuff for my rollover vent tube and parts so I can make a traction/anti-wrap bar. I have crazy amounts of axle wrap.
Another garage day. Last night I didn't get much done. I got the parts I bought from Liquid Iron installed. They sent me stainless fuel lines and AN fittings for my rollover vent tube for my fuel cell. No more stinky gas fumes in the cab.
Also had a snag. My cheap ford explorer disc brake setup didn't work. A buddy of mine came by today and we figured out what we could do to make it work. Basically, I have a late model large bearing ford 9". The flange on the housing ends match those of a ford explorer 8.8 so I figured the ford explorer disc brakes would work as a direct bolt on + the addition of the currie enterprises ring spacer. Well, I put their spacer on with the new stock style bearings and the axle retainer plate would lock up with the pressure from that spacer. Our plan, simply trim off 1/8" off of the retainer plate where it follows the neck of the axle shaft to allow room for play on that retainer flange and axle shaft. Now I have to get the new bearings off, install another set and the spacer ring after I modify that retainer plate. After that, we should be good to go and my axle seals will stop leaking like crazy.
Back onto my weekend progress. I am running XJ springs as you guys have seen. Well, they suck when it comes to a V8 and SOA. Typical fix, build a traction / anti wrap bar!
I almost bought the one that Liquid Iron sells. It is the best design I've seen. BUT my frame rails are so narrow, the slider box was going to be to big to fit between my frame rails. So I borrowed some of their design ideas and build one similar with a shackle for smaller packaging.
The heims and bushings are from Barnes 4wd. The axle end will have poly bushings. The shackle end will have a heim. I built the lower link so it's the same length as the axle to leaf spring link.
I've been trying to work on my welds too.
I still have to make a mount on the frame.
Also had a snag. My cheap ford explorer disc brake setup didn't work. A buddy of mine came by today and we figured out what we could do to make it work. Basically, I have a late model large bearing ford 9". The flange on the housing ends match those of a ford explorer 8.8 so I figured the ford explorer disc brakes would work as a direct bolt on + the addition of the currie enterprises ring spacer. Well, I put their spacer on with the new stock style bearings and the axle retainer plate would lock up with the pressure from that spacer. Our plan, simply trim off 1/8" off of the retainer plate where it follows the neck of the axle shaft to allow room for play on that retainer flange and axle shaft. Now I have to get the new bearings off, install another set and the spacer ring after I modify that retainer plate. After that, we should be good to go and my axle seals will stop leaking like crazy.
Back onto my weekend progress. I am running XJ springs as you guys have seen. Well, they suck when it comes to a V8 and SOA. Typical fix, build a traction / anti wrap bar!
I almost bought the one that Liquid Iron sells. It is the best design I've seen. BUT my frame rails are so narrow, the slider box was going to be to big to fit between my frame rails. So I borrowed some of their design ideas and build one similar with a shackle for smaller packaging.
The heims and bushings are from Barnes 4wd. The axle end will have poly bushings. The shackle end will have a heim. I built the lower link so it's the same length as the axle to leaf spring link.
I've been trying to work on my welds too.
I still have to make a mount on the frame.
bigblueyj
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Location
- Woodlawn, VA
I had a traction bar on mine at one time. I run waggy leafs. They get a little flexy. But I ended up taking it off due to it hitting the fuel tank. Since I've installed the 60 I need to put it back in. SO I'll be back in the same boat. I like the way you made you're tubes sleeve together. Very clean. I may have to borrow a little design idea if that's alright with you. Oh yeah, those welds look awesome too. You're almost there man. Keep it up.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. I'm sure your Waggy leafs do the similar thing. The XJ rear springs have pretty violent axle wrap. I'm hoping this will fix my problem. Borrow any of my designs that you'd like! I am always borrowing stuff from others too so knock yourself out. I used 1.5" .250 wall DOM for the sleeves and 1.75" .120" wall DOM for the main sections of the material. Each sleeve is about 7-8" long. The ends are just 3/4" heims and 2" DOM bushing sleeves. My longest tube is ~29.5" end to end. I made it the same length as the front side of the XJ spring from eye to center pin. I thought it made sense to make them the same length so their pivot would be about the same motion.
Here are a few updated shots of the traction bar in place. My buddy, Mitch, came by yesterday and helped out so we were able to get the traction bar mounts welded on the axle, all the main components welded on the traction bar. Now I just need to make the bracket that attaches to the frame that will house the shackle I have to cut down and install.
The rear of the jeep is sitting higher than it normally will since it's on jack stands.
I welded and cross braced the lower link so the links should be strong enough. I hope!
I allowed adjustment in the lower heim so I an length it to flatten out the drop on the top length.
Checklist now includes the following before the Uwharrie Fall Jamboree...
Finish traction bar
Install new bearings and the Currie spacers on the rear axle (and trim the axle retainer plates)
Get inspection and tag
Finish transmission tunnel
Heat tape underside of transmission tunnel
Swap hardware on rear leaf springs
Attach fuel cell to floor
Tweak brakes
Finish driver side front fender armor
Nut and bolt everything
Re-gear front axle
Dyno & tune engine
LOTS TO DO!
The rear of the jeep is sitting higher than it normally will since it's on jack stands.
I welded and cross braced the lower link so the links should be strong enough. I hope!
I allowed adjustment in the lower heim so I an length it to flatten out the drop on the top length.
Checklist now includes the following before the Uwharrie Fall Jamboree...
Finish traction bar
Install new bearings and the Currie spacers on the rear axle (and trim the axle retainer plates)
Get inspection and tag
Finish transmission tunnel
Heat tape underside of transmission tunnel
Swap hardware on rear leaf springs
Attach fuel cell to floor
Tweak brakes
Finish driver side front fender armor
Nut and bolt everything
Re-gear front axle
Dyno & tune engine
LOTS TO DO!
LowBudget87YJ
Active Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2013
- Location
- Lucia NC
Awesome work! read through your entire thread last night and really like the build. I had the idea of doing a mail jeep several years ago but past on it cause my mechanical and fab. skills where not anywhere near what they are to day ( not saying im the best by no means ). After I get my YJ where I wont it I may have to look into doing one myself.
Thanks LowBudget! I'm working on all the "kinks" right now and it's a real PITA! It's worth it though. Every step has brought along new challenges. It's easier to buy one then build one but building them is the most fun! I love some YJs too!
Busy busy weekend! First off, my shitty brake situation has been fixed. I adjusted the proportioning valve so there is less pressure to the rear (which puts more pressure up front) and it made a world of difference.
I got the frame mount made for the traction bar.
Another shot of the mount. Basically it's a poly bushing mount from Barnes 4wd then I made a 3/8" piece of plate to weld it all together then onto the frame rail. It's a pretty simple setup but I'm thinking it should work okay.
All done!
Then for a late night test drive Saturday night. I have to say WOW! The traction bar made a huge difference. It will friggin' hook up and give you some serious whiplash now. I love it!
Then I started working on the transmission tunnel. I welded my floors to the roll cage for strength and due to clearance issues. I'm happy with how it worked out.
Another.
Then today's progress!
I had to leave a hole open in the middle of the tunnel to allow for my long ass transfer case shifter to work.
Another with the seats in. Just need to finish the front section of the tunnel that connects to the firewall.
FYI. The transmission tunnel is removable. I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in the floors I'd built and onto a piece of plate I welded to the front side of the roll cage floor piece.
Some buddies of mine came over yesterday and today to help me work on some stuff. They got the wiring tucked up, the fuel cell mounted to the body and a whole bunch of other stuff to help out. Now I just need to finish trans tunnel, nut and bolt everything, get the engine tuned (this is scheduled for Thursday) then get the front gears installed early next week (getting that done at Universal Service) unless you guys recommend someone else local that can offer a same day service.
I got the frame mount made for the traction bar.
Another shot of the mount. Basically it's a poly bushing mount from Barnes 4wd then I made a 3/8" piece of plate to weld it all together then onto the frame rail. It's a pretty simple setup but I'm thinking it should work okay.
All done!
Then for a late night test drive Saturday night. I have to say WOW! The traction bar made a huge difference. It will friggin' hook up and give you some serious whiplash now. I love it!
Then I started working on the transmission tunnel. I welded my floors to the roll cage for strength and due to clearance issues. I'm happy with how it worked out.
Another.
Then today's progress!
I had to leave a hole open in the middle of the tunnel to allow for my long ass transfer case shifter to work.
Another with the seats in. Just need to finish the front section of the tunnel that connects to the firewall.
FYI. The transmission tunnel is removable. I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in the floors I'd built and onto a piece of plate I welded to the front side of the roll cage floor piece.
Some buddies of mine came over yesterday and today to help me work on some stuff. They got the wiring tucked up, the fuel cell mounted to the body and a whole bunch of other stuff to help out. Now I just need to finish trans tunnel, nut and bolt everything, get the engine tuned (this is scheduled for Thursday) then get the front gears installed early next week (getting that done at Universal Service) unless you guys recommend someone else local that can offer a same day service.
Trying to get ready for Uwharrie in a few weeks, I'll be working on my jeep some during the work week. Tonight's project...Rock lights! Why?! Because I want to go 4 wheelin' at night with the cool kids. AND I just think they look cool. Basically, I bought some hideous $10 fog lights from Harbor Freight and wired them into a toggle switch I had pre-installed in my dash. I also wired in the old reverse lights so they're rock lights now as well. They really make a big difference out back. I'm thrilled with how they came out. I even used the old bulbs that were in the rear lights. haha! I kept it simple. I put one light up front in front of the front axle and one in the rear above the rear axle. I think they should be plenty bright at night and they should not draw too much power to run them.
Rear.
Front.
Basically, I bought some hideous $10 fog lights from Harbor Freight and wired them into a toggle switch I had pre-installed in my dash. I also wired in the old reverse lights so they're rock lights now as well. They really make a big difference out back. I'm thrilled with how they came out. I even used the old bulbs that were in the rear lights. haha! I kept it simple. I put one light up front in front of the front axle and one in the rear above the rear axle. I think they should be plenty bright at night and they should not draw too much power to run them.Rear.
Front.
More after work prep. Tonight I made a mount for the radiator reservoir. I used a Coors Light 16oz screw on aluminum bottle for my reservoir. I didn't want to spend money on a real reservoir so hopefully this will hold up just fine and it only cost me $1.49 which included the beer inside.
I also screwed with that 9" axle again since one of the axle seals are still leaking after I installed the Currie Enterprises spacers for the explorer 8.8 disc brakes. That's been a real pain in my ass. I put some RTV sealant in between the axle flange, brake backing plate and axle retainer plate. Hopefully this will fix my leaky rear. If not, I don't know what else to do with it. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
I also screwed with that 9" axle again since one of the axle seals are still leaking after I installed the Currie Enterprises spacers for the explorer 8.8 disc brakes. That's been a real pain in my ass. I put some RTV sealant in between the axle flange, brake backing plate and axle retainer plate. Hopefully this will fix my leaky rear. If not, I don't know what else to do with it. If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears.
Well...I found out tonight why my jeep rear axle tried to lock up on me this morning on my drive into work and why gear oil was EVERYWHERE! Makes sense now. For everyone else, this is why you can't press bearings off then on again. That is the only reason I can assume this new (but re-pressed on) bearing failed.
