76 ford f150 spinecrusher tons 42"s longarms 4-linked

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I installed the doubler from Behemoth drivetrain it was a fairly simple install after fabricating crossmembers and such with the strongbox I also got a triple cable shifter and np205 rear support kit with matching front output bearing retainer the fit and machining of every thing was tight requiring a rubber mallet to install the bearing retainer and other parts I wouldn't call this a bad thing as most only required a few solid whaps for mock assembling then it turned into a good snug slip fit I much prefer that over a loose sloppy fit anyways onto some pics
 
Mock assembly on the table with doubler np205 rear support and front bearing retainer
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here's the cable shifters installed I wanted to have them pretty much dialed in before installation in the truck to reduce the amount of adjustment required in the vehicle
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I had to cut 1/2" off of the output to make the doubler fit I called jake about the problem an he said that he had not seen the output of a c6 as long as mine so I measured a spare c6 I have laying around and guess what its the same so in the future he is going to modify the strongbox to fix the issue but this was the bw1356 based strongbox prototype so I expected a few hiccups jake was very helpful in resolving the few minor technical difficulties I ran into
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letting the smoke out that drill has seen better days
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triple sticks with my custom knobs two dana 3060 spider gears and a cheapo skull I drilled out and epoxied a bolt into then welded a nut to it
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had to clearance the bearing retainer so I could get the bolts into the flange
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The 205 support kit is pretty sweet it definitely helps with supporting the weight and added strain on my c6
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I modified it slightly to keep the poly bushing away from the exhaust
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this is a profile shot to show how the support kit mounts and the crossmember I was making
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this is how it looked after I got the water/oil separator mounted up and the crossmember finished
 
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the modified factory torque mount for the 205 was moved and reinstalled accordingly I had to trim a bit of it off so it would fit between the transfer case and frame
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this is the cable shifter location for the doubler on the passenger side sharing a bolt with the doubler to the factory trans adapter
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I had to clearance the clocking ring a bit for the shifter rod
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Well the benefits of all this fabricating is I now have the option of 1to1,2to1,2.72to1,and 5.44to1 so I have basically a 4speed transfer case a longer front driveshaft that's pretty critical I was running two 1310 ultra flex joints from tom woods I took this chance to upgrade to a 1350 double cardan at the tcase and a 1410 at the axle now I can run 50mph in 4wheel drive with no perceptible driveline vibrations .in low low with the trans in drive I have a topspeed of about 15mph it shifts through all the gears almost immediatly and has tons of torque I can't wait to get it out on the rocks
 
Yeah mine does it anytime it gets in a bind the bearings are shot but what do you expect I have had it for two years and built this whole truck with it she's been a good drill and I still use it frequently
 
My dewalt does same now after ran hard and amazingly keeps going. Must be a dewalt thing. They've outlasted 2 brand new Hitachi's and 2 brand new port-a-cable drills. Port-a-cable is a product from China now Just FYI. Dewalt is probably the last remaining USA made battery / electric tool??? But their prices show just how proud they are as well. Get what you pay for.
 
I've got an Atlas 4spd in my cab truck behind a C6. I had to cut about 3/4" off the output shaft of the C6 too. The C6 originally had an NP208 behind it. They both originally came in an 85 FS Bronco.

If you have not upgraded your motor mounts, do so before you go wheeling. The 5.44:1 gearing ripped my motor mounts apart quickly. They were only a year old too. They then proceeded to rip another new set apart. I now have some very HD ones from Broncograveyard installed.
 
I've got an Atlas 4spd in my cab truck behind a C6. I had to cut about 3/4" off the output shaft of the C6 too. The C6 originally had an NP208 behind it. They both originally came in an 85 FS Bronco.

If you have not upgraded your motor mounts, do so before you go wheeling. The 5.44:1 gearing ripped my motor mounts apart quickly. They were only a year old too. They then proceeded to rip another new set apart. I now have some very HD ones from Broncograveyard installed.
I hadn't thought about the poor motor mounts I figured keeping the torque mount on the tcase and adding the 205 rear support would be enough that's good info drkelly ill look into it I guess its good we got a couple months till ure opens
 
Well I broke one of the teeth off the sector shaft on my steering box but gladly I keep a few old truck parts laying around
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How is that doubler holding up? I'm thinking of switching mine out to the set up you have, I'm swapping from a np435 to a c6 and I'm trying to get my crawl ratio back.
 
It works really well. The doubler changed the way the whole rig handles in the rocks I used to have issues with power not being able to spin the tire when a little bound up in the rocks but now it spins them up at will. I find that 2.72to1 is the most useful ratio the 5.44 to 1is mostly for playing in rock gardens but pretty useless climbing wet ledges and what not but its great for the super technical slow stuff alot like the 435 low gear I think they have a very similar ratio once you figure in the c6 1st gear.reliability has so far been superb it does pus fluid out of the vent but I made a little catch can and solved that jake at Behemoth is supposed to be modifying the case to stop that little problem.I guess the biggest advantage is that I can set ratio where I think I need it then put the c6 in drive or manually shift it and never lose momentum while building wheel speed that is the one thing that the math doesn't explain I didn't realize the true advantages of it until I went wheeling with it
 
here's a video of me at the flats my power steering had been dead most of the day so I couldn't steer too well but its fixed now hopefully I wont have this problem in the future
 
Well I cutt the rear end of the truck off for my next project,coilovers all around.I bought some used 2.5"x16" foa coilovers from a guy on pirate.the plan is to drop the rear 4" and front 2" to lower the cg all while trying to increase uptravel a bit
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Made alittle progress on my rear coilovers,I got a bunch of bracing done the coilovers are mounted
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I angle cut the rear of the cage then welded a 3/4" washer on the end and used some scrap dom pieces hammered flat to finish it off then welded it all solid and ground it smooth.we added some small led clearance lights my buddy tim wired it all up.I fabbed up a spare tyre carrier and mounted the air tank
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Got the coilovers on all the way around just in time to play a bit in the snow but due to the rushing to get it ready in time I didnt take alot of construction pics but here is the payoff
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Some more shots of my junk and my buddy tims truck getting a little flexing action in my yard
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