3D PRINTING

Wanted a quiver for back yard showing and trying my hand at tournaments, so I drew one up and started it. Debating whether it should have been done as a vase?

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If you mean "vase mode" that's only useful if the model is a single wall thick, is that what you're doing?
 
If you mean "vase mode" that's only useful if the model is a single wall thick, is that what you're doing?
Thanks. No. The walls are 5mm. It's 60mm ID, 5mm walls, and a 5mm flange at the top.
 
Thanks. No. The walls are 5mm. It's 60mm ID, 5mm walls, and a 5mm flange at the top.
Vase mode means it runs in a continual fashion without stopping. It saves time but it's not really possible with anything that can't be outlined in a single layer. It may do some kind of variant to allow mutiple components but then you're losing that time om start/stops again.

Note you can switch to a 0.6 or even 0.8mm nozzle, and then set the line width to 1.5x the nozzle widh and et a pretty thick single line, but that also means your flow has to be able to keep up (most hot ends can't do > 0.6mm w/o upgrades
 
Vase mode means it runs in a continual fashion without stopping. It saves time but it's not really possible with anything that can't be outlined in a single layer. It may do some kind of variant to allow mutiple components but then you're losing that time om start/stops again.

Note you can switch to a 0.6 or even 0.8mm nozzle, and then set the line width to 1.5x the nozzle widh and et a pretty thick single line, but that also means your flow has to be able to keep up (most hot ends can't do > 0.6mm w/o upgrades
Good info. I am running a .6mm nozzle on this print. Max speed is 60mm/s and it's showing 12ish hours. Was just curious since its just a straight tube with a flange.
 
Good info. I am running a .6mm nozzle on this print. Max speed is 60mm/s and it's showing 12ish hours. Was just curious since its just a straight tube with a flange.
What are you using for the Z step height? (Line height)
You could easily do 0.3mm and even 0.4. That makes a huge difference in time. Generally Z height is the single biggest predictor of printing time, even more than speed.

Theoretically you could run that nozzle with a line spacing as wide as 1mm, but you'd have to really drop the Z height, otherwise you'll run into limitations on the total flow rate you can get through the stock hot end.
 
What are you using for the Z step height? (Line height)
You could easily do 0.3mm and even 0.4. That makes a huge difference in time. Generally Z height is the single biggest predictor of printing time, even more than speed.

Theoretically you could run that nozzle with a line spacing as wide as 1mm, but you'd have to really drop the Z height, otherwise you'll run into limitations on the total flow rate you can get through the stock hot end.
I dont know. But I'll check when I get home. I've been running 70mm/s speeds with decent results, but wanted to ensure good strength on this. Thus is the tallest piece I've printed. Humming right along though.


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I dont know. But I'll check when I get home. I've been running 70mm/s speeds with decent results, but wanted to ensure good strength on this. Thus is the tallest piece I've printed. Humming right along though.


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what's up w/ the booger weldz at the base?
 
Final product. Think I may need to make it taller, but it turned our alright. Few rough places on the back of it.

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Yep, not tall enough. First one was 250mm. Printing one now at 380mm. And @RatLabGuy. Hit the nail on the head. 1/3 larger print is going to take 30 minutes or so less, just changing the layer height from .2 to .3.

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Yep, that'll do. Only a few small blemishes on this one.

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Want to share that file?
Search for 'modular wrench' on thingiverse. FYI there is a small/medium/large size, the small will fit pretty much all the normal sized wrenches up to 7/8" or a little larger.

I just modified the file, made the small 7 slots wide, it saves a lot of filament and time printing, can still add to it on either end though.
 
And what do those cost a guy?

-asking for a friend.
Well the filament is only $20.
Then $1500 on the X1c.

Its a very good value. :lol:
 
And what do those cost a guy?

-asking for a friend.
But in all seriousness, tell your friend I'm swinging down through NC for Easter next week, RDU to Clayton to Oak Island, then driving back up by way of lake gaston. If our paths were to cross they could be had for a handshake.

Unless @jeepinmatt is right, in which case the price is $20
 
Printed two but they don't want to go together. The male side is curved and the female side is square.
 

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Printed two but they don't want to go together. The male side is curved and the female side is square.
Funny, I found the same thing.
Also, they are WAY bigger than they need to be.

@Tacoma747 which did you print? And do they stay put?
I'm considering making my own design.
I'm thinking what they really need is a spot to glue in a magnet.
 
@RatLabGuy

Pretty sure it was this one:

I printed mine in ABS, they fit together tightly. The small size is big enough for pretty much all the wrenches. I modified the file and made one with 7 slots, but still with the connections on each end. Prints faster and with less filament, put about 3-4 together that are 7 slots, then add singles to fill the drawer.
 
@Tacoma747
what do you mean 7 slots?
It looks like you could cut off the top 1/4 of the model and it would do the job just fine.
I ordered a pack of magnets, got an idea
 
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Random/fun print of the day. Arrow guide for use with a drop away rest. 20 minutes to model, 23 minutes to print.

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