Yota axle VS ford 8.8

thebluyak

thebluyak

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Joined
Mar 24, 2005
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Jamestown
Alright its coming down to making a decision. Yota axles have been said to hold up good (see friends CJ shave topic) to a certain extent. What are the pro's and cons of a yota vs a 95 and up ford 8.8? I know the yota is already leaf sprung and has large drum brakes. This would be replacing my chero d35 so I would need to weld the spring mounts on the 8.8. Both are around the same cost + or - a few dollars, and both would end up being locked. Either axle wouldnt see tires any large than 35's and would not be beat on to hardcore. Whats everyones 2 cents on this?
 
Ford 8.8 has nice disk brakes but the pumpkin does hang a little. Wheel bolt pattern matches the D30 front. I don't know about the Yota but the Ford has thick tubes to weld to. Check the Yota wifth the Ford is like 58"
 
i can pretty much guarantee you wont break a yota rear axle with 35's (i assume you're talking about a rear axle since you are also considering an 8.8)... if you do it will be in the diff /locker area... either one is VERY unlikely... plus if you do, 3rd members are cheap (usually ~$75-$100), can be replaced easily, and come stock with 4.10, 4.56, or 4.88 gears... also, the yota axle shafts are bolted in, so IF you break a shaft, you dont have to worry about losing the shaft cause it isnt going anywhere... IMO i would go with the yota rear over the 8.8
 
you will not break a yota (i'm running sticky Krawler 37's on mine) Its way smaller, lighter, cheaper, discs are easy to do, you can use a yota rear shaft on it.....
 
Hey 35XJ what modifications need to be done to a yota to get it to match up to the leaf springs and driveshaft? Also what bolt pattern is the yota if u know off the top of your head? Also what are the best years for the yota to pull from?

*** chances are I will just run the large drums over the disk so you do not need to specifiy on that aspect, trying to save ya some thinking time :) **
 
jdubb said:
I don't know about the Yota but the Ford has thick tubes to weld to.
Click to expand...

Oh my gawd, where did you hear that? Insert picture of Rob's ripped axle tube here.

The bolt pattern on MOST yota axles are 6x5.5 The ones you'll find with the 5x4.5 pattern to match the shitty Jeep pattern are 95% using a 7.5" ring gear, with 27(?) spline axles.

The best one for you would be a V6, 2wd axle. Has the typical 8" third member (braced more heavily), 30 spline shafts, and the 5x4.5 pattern. Tacoma axles are wider than the older stuff.
 
if u dont have matching bolt patterns u will need to carry 2 spares... jsut something to think about..
 
hmm this is a really tough decision....with that throw into the pot it doesnt make anything any easier
 
Rich said:
Oh my gawd, where did you hear that? Insert picture of Rob's ripped axle tube here.

The bolt pattern on MOST yota axles are 6x5.5 The ones you'll find with the 5x4.5 pattern to match the shitty Jeep pattern are 95% using a 7.5" ring gear, with 27(?) spline axles.

The best one for you would be a V6, 2wd axle. Has the typical 8" third member (braced more heavily), 30 spline shafts, and the 5x4.5 pattern. Tacoma axles are wider than the older stuff.
Click to expand...

Rich, you said they will have the matching 5x4.5 as the jeep? where would I look to find that 30 spline and the 8" with the 5x4.5?
 
dutchman could probably make some shafts for you to convert the toy axle to 5x4.5. I think both are pretty good axles, I'd like the clearance of a yota axle and a removable 3rd member but 8.8's are easier to come by, I got mine out of a 2001 mountaineer so it had disc brakes and the 31 spline shafts.

Rich, I thought the 8.8 had 1/4" wall tubes? I've never seen much problems with them as long as they were welded to the diff.
 
Rich said:
Insert picture of Rob's ripped axle tube here.
Click to expand...

Let's see the pics.

I saw the same thing happen to a Yota on Kodak last year. Ripped the tube open from a traction bar bracket and gear oil was leaking out.

DK
 
Rich said:
Oh my gawd, where did you hear that? Insert picture of Rob's ripped axle tube here.
Click to expand...

8.8 tubes are 3/16"

And yeah, they tear. Assuming they don't collapse at the spring mounts first.

And *thats* assuming of course that you can get the R&P to live long enough to actually destroy the housing.
 
thebluyak said:
what years would have the v6 2wd 30 spline?
Click to expand...

you should be fine with anything in the 89-95 range

get some spring perches and weld them on.... 2wd was SUA... that will allow you to point your pinion as needed and space them for your springs
 
both the yota and 8.8 are 3/16 wall. i would go yota, for clearance, weight, and semi float. put some spacers on it (to the pattern you want) to figure out the bolt pattern, be it aftermarket shafts or finding the 2wd v6 version that rich is talking about.
 
Ford 8.8-O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188â€!)

Stock Toyota housing at 3†diameter x approximately .188†wall thickness.

So as long as you got a good 8.8 with 1/4" wall tubes which most are you shouldnt be having problems with the tubes tearing. The tubes on my ford 8.8 are alot thicker then the ones on my buddies toyota axle.
 
either way, 1/4 inch and 3/16 are only 1/16 apart. it is not a "lot thicker". brace them and wheel them....

and yes, 3/16 = .1875 so you confirmed what had already been said.
 
Everyone is talking about tearing the axles and strengths, etc. Which is good. Question is, how hard you gonna wheel? Everything breaks sometime. I'd think under semi-cautious wheeling you could run a long time on either axle locked w/ 35's. So go with the one that is a) more cost effective and b) an easier swap. If you are thinking you might break either of these then save your money and get a d60 or something of that nature. I have seen them on here for 200. :smokin: -Josh
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
Everyone is talking about tearing the axles and strengths, etc. Which is good. Question is, how hard you gonna wheel? Everything breaks sometime. I'd think under semi-cautious wheeling you could run a long time on either axle locked w/ 35's. So go with the one that is a) more cost effective and b) an easier swap. If you are thinking you might break either of these then save your money and get a d60 or something of that nature. I have seen them on here for 200. :smokin: -Josh
Click to expand...

captain obvious to the rescue. :flipoff2:

having an 8.8, i still vote for the yota axle. 8.8 carriers sucks, hangs down on eVERYTHING, diff cover is like tin foil, c-clips, blah. I guess i jumped on the bandwagon a little too early.
 
thebluyak said:
Rich, you said they will have the matching 5x4.5 as the jeep? where would I look to find that 30 spline and the 8" with the 5x4.5?
Click to expand...

Any 2wd (NOT pre-runner) Tacoma V6 from '95.5 onwards will have the widest axle, with the small 5x4.5 bolt pattern. (Which also means your front axle will have shitty, tiny lockouts should you ever decide to add them)

Like I said, they are rare as hen's teeth. There weren't many made, despite that for years, it was the fastest Toyota made sans Supra.

Hell, if my S-Runner was ever recovered, there is a SWEET axle.. wide, 8.4" ring gear with the trussed bearing caps, 5x4.5 bolt pattern, and new seals/brake shoes. Only 3.15 gearing, but 4x4 taco people sell stock 4.10's all the time for ~$25-50 when they regear.

It'll be alot easier to find a Taco/minitruck axle and deal with the 6-lug. It'll cost less to get front wheel adapters than to re-gear the 2wd axles.
 
Yeah that does make alot of sense Rich. Alright now that Ive got everyons opinions I think ill go for the yota, It wouldnt be hard wheeling so it should hold up fine. How much do spacers run and you can pick them up at any 4x4 store right? *** would be converting the front axle to match yota bolt pattern not vice versa**

Ryan
 
I say toy with adapters for the front.
should come out cheaper,better clearance, and stronger with less worries in the end.

think though: I wonder how many on this board said "I will never do much hardcore wheeling"
when they got the first rig. then built it,wheeled it, rebuilt and built it, again, and again to finally end up with a capable wheeler. If your going to do it? You might as well do it right the first time. and at least go beefy.
 
The 8.8 does hang down A LOT as I mentioned but the problems with the gears and carriers and tubes? If the Mustangs with 500+ HP aren't eating up diffs, you might ask youself what you're doing wrong with the gear setup. With disk brakes already there, the axles falling out is not a problem as if he's going to break a shaft anyway. I do like the Yota 3rd member setup better though.
 
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