What have you done to your rig today?

Time to replace ball joints, the bolts on this axle make it seem like it lived in the bottom of the ocean for a couple years.
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Changed front unit bearing due to canary singing with wheel speed frequency from the right side. Canary still singing. I would have bet a paycheck it was the right front. Checking the rear later.
 
And I found a bad unit bearing and the parts store cant get it till tomorrow... My jeep is also halfway in the garage so now I have to put the bad bearing on and put it all back together so I can roll it back 5 feet. Then tear it back apart tomorrow

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Anyone have tips for straightening a tie rod that's 1.5x.250 wall dom? Mine is a little bent in no idea how that happened... lol

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98_tj said:
Anyone have tips for straightening a tie rod that's 1.5x.250 wall dom? Mine is a little bent in no idea how that happened... lol

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Rotate it 180*. Seriously.
Then have one made out of aluminum. That's what I did 3 years ago and no more bends.
 
98_tj said:
Anyone have tips for straightening a tie rod that's 1.5x.250 wall dom? Mine is a little bent in no idea how that happened... lol

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Replace it with 7075, I lost faith in 1.5x.25 dom after @Joe J. completely destroying his old on .
 
a_kelley said:
might be the left front.. I've sworn several times it was the wrong side. Just to end to replacing the other..
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Good advice! So I took the old one and swapped the driver's side out with the old "crusty" one from the pass side. Still have the same damn noise, lol. So I have a new one on the pass side and the old pass side on the driver side. Both bearings seemed "OK"... Original pass side was a little too free spinning and a little crunchy like a dry bearing. The original driver side was slower turning (not free spinning) and smooth like a newer bearing. They look different so one has been changed before my time.

TLDR; swapped 'em both and still have a dang canary under my jeep. Doesn't sound fast enough to be a drive shaft ujoint.

Control arm rubber bushings are shot too (have been for a while). 4" lift on SA's are tough on 'em. They're soaking in PBB tonight and will come out tomorrow. I'll be getting new ones soon or long arming this thing. *Attn @Chris_Keziah :burnout:*

This old boy is tired and needs an off season for some TLC. It was named Leroy today too. Thanks kids....they were down to Fred, Clyde, and Leroy won out. o_O
 
Got #3 piston replaced, that cylinder honed & it put back together on wife's DD in time for get to bring kids to school. Broken skirt on old piston, used piston from a water frozen block, and all is quiet again. Wouldn't do that on someone else's motor, but this is mine. Decided to not replace any rod bearings - all the rest are worn, figured a new bearing wouldn't get enough oil. Minor bearing noise but at 258k, you'll have that. Saved the piston and rod so I have a full set for a full rebuild with the good block, crank & rods I have put up. But that will be all new parts on that rebuild, & this was just a patch job to gimp it along another 20-50k. (100k if I'm lucky but wifey wants a new ride anyhow)
 
98_tj said:
My ram is mounted on the top of it so I cant flip it without redoing the mounts.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Can't tell by the pic, but could you chain the tie rod to the D-rings, then place a hyd jack between tie rod & bumper or frame, to jack the tie rod down? Like they used to straighten straight axles; tie it down & jack it! [whoppee!]
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Well, I've worked on it for a couple days but this is the list but first I was greeted by this before I started.

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1) relocated the front upper link mounts; that included welding in some plate to the upper truss and burning the tabs in
2) cut the old ones off with the portaband and grinding the rest down
3) welding up a pin hole in my diff cover
4) taking the smoke wrench to the front truss and try to straighten things out. It was beat up pretty bad
5) cut and prep the piece that ties the front and upper truss together
6) paint over the dirt and grease with eBay shine

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Chris_Keziah said:
Two wheels done. I'll get these mounted tomorrow and then start on the other two.
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I just got my first one put together yesterday just to realize it going to have to come back out. I'm going to have to put 90 degree valve stems in to clear the bolts and rings. Now I'm going to have to find 90 degree rubber valve stem, I don't want metal.
 
NCJeeplover said:
I just got my first one put together yesterday just to realize it going to have to come back out. I'm going to have to put 90 degree valve stems in to clear the bolts and rings. Now I'm going to have to find 90 degree rubber valve stem, I don't want metal.
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Yeah definitely stay with the rubber stem, hoping the one's TMR sent me work out.
 
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