Unnamed toterhome project - Chapter 1

Yay!Gurrr

Yay!Gurrr

Better Faster Stronger
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Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
N. N. Raleigh, NC
Got the truck last night. Wife thinks it should be called the 'beast' i think somthing more exciting sounding... For now we'll call it 'stuck'... as in i can't get it along the house (yet)...

but here's here are a few pics of it showing it and the current parking situaition... Keep in mind the wheel base is ~238" so it turns wide :)

Im not sure which will be easier in the long run, to pull in or back it in. I like the idea of pulling in as it will make the back more usable for temp storage etc.. but I ended up pulling in due to there being 5 cars on the street last night and not being able to maneuver.

1st thoughts are to increase the pinch area opposite the garage corner to allow for the front to swing wider as i turn in.
2nd is to push the entire wall back 12-18" and drop some pavers or gravel in, this would aid in drainage also.. plus the tires wouldnt likly hit that but just be used for swing of the over hanging parts...
3rd storage rental (outside parking) i don't like this idea.. but it may be a reality, there are 2 places within 5 miles..

ideas? suggestions?


Wife has ok'd doing what ever needs to be done...

Edit: Note gutter section, that will be coming down and ill make a custom piece with the very end cut off at 45deg with a new drain tube etc..
 

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So what are the specs on this thing and what are your plans for it?
 
::happyneighborvoice:: "Honey look, the redneck with the big jeep is finally moving!!!" ::/happyneighborvoice::











:flipoff2:
congrats on getting the rig, and the go ahead from the wifey. :beer: my choice would be moving the wall, and the guter mods.
 
ok a drawing of the problem... Mainly its the garage overhang.
Obviously im not cutting the garage off :)
I plan to address the gutter. Thats a good 4"...
Also plan to try driving on some 1x6 planks to see how much that tips the box out ward as I pass that spot..
In the pic the 2 areas I see that I can possible address are:
1) Deepen that corner pinch area to allow more room to swing
2) Rework from gravel hill area to allow for a straighter entry to the side of the house...
ideas????
 

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Ok some specs... (from online u-haul add)
1989 INTERNATIONAL S1600
V-8 diesel engine 7.3 L IDI NA (non turbo)
5 speed standard transmission, Spicer CM4054A with Power Take Off Access
Rear Axle: Spicer 4.33 Gear Ratio
Power steering / 100 Amp Alternator
Air Conditioning / AM-FM Radio
4 wheel disc brakes with power assist
Wheelbase is 236 inches / Air bag suspension on the rear axle
Box lowers to 24 inches high / Raised deck height is 32 inches
Pullout aluminum ramp on the rear- 8 feet long
Wheel Wells for the rear wheels to allow lowest possible deck height
Box is 22 feet long on the floor from the back of the cab to the rear door.
Fuel tank Capacity--50 Gallons.
Fiberglas Flip Forward Hood.
Tire size--245/70R/19.5 load range G.
GVRW 18,200 lbs.

It will run 65-70 on the flats, i had it at 70 on the beltway.. but 65 is comfortable... Its a slug so im sure Ill fall off some on the hills..
 
Keep in mind its easier to stear something forward, than back wards. YOu may get it in, but with steering backwards, it may be even more fun getting it back out. Pretty sweet rig idea though.
 
Store it. All that work is going to cost a lot, plus lost time. The first time you try to squeeze it in tired you are going to mess something up. My outdoor storage is cheap, secured, insured, and keeps my neighbors off my back. If you do keep it at home, then you need to open up the access to the side. I wouldn't modify the house. Just open up the access into the side drive and back it in. Once you get used to driving it you will be able to park it there without problems as long as you have room to manuver the front end.
 
That is one ugly SOB! :D

Are you planning on hauling your rig in it and having part of it be the RV?
 
Yeah, yeah...seen ones similar. Just wondering what plans he had for it.:flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Give me some spray cans...I'll paint it. You like flames right yager? :D Gotta paint the wheels black too. Maybe the whole thing black with red stripes and flames on the hood. Vinyl decal "yagerbomb" on the back!
 
yager said:
was thinking some flames be cool.....
Click to expand...

hey honey, the redneck neighbor with the "Jeep" and flamed out Uhaul is home...yeah...(heh, continuing on from someone else's theme above)

Yeah that is an ugly corner, my guess is that wall is gonna have to get pushed back AND if you can shallow up the angle in front too, then you are in like flynn...

OH yeah...put a solid as HECK 4x4 POST on that corner protecting your house dude...much rather see you ding the POST with the back corner than the corner of the roof joist...worth the $50 of post for your protection..

A $200ish RV cover might keep the peace as well...should cover it from end to end and then it "looks" more like a $100,000 motorhome with a nice cover instead of a "Flamed out Uhaul" property value plunger... :flipoff2:

Oh yeah..and your wife is MUCH more open than mine, I wouldn't have been able to buy OR park that near my house... she is a KEEPER Mike!

Sam
 
Well looks like the vanbox will become a toter style front. I dug out the wall today and still need to finish it up. I was able to get the thing parked, but it required guidance from my wife and it was still a tight squeeze.. Then after some thinking and talking outloud, I pondered why I couldn't just loop the rear section off ?

So the proposed plan is to cut the back section off. Reusing the FRP wood sides along with the misc. corner hardware etc and simply walling off where the RV section would be. This would leave an open deck in the back. After I stewed on it some I realized a few more plus of doing this..

I'd be able to swing my parking spot np. as I could cut in under the eve as im backing in. Or if pulling in i could drag that part under it np.. (its amazing how 2-3" affect this thing when i trying to get it parked just right..)

weight - the box is rumored to be 3500# so cutting 2/3s of the top section would save a good 1000# of weight off the back end. This would allow me to carry the jeep a little bit further back on the deck probably a 12"

I'd loose some of the U-haul'ness :) nuff said...
 

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Down&Dirty said:
Store it. All that work is going to cost a lot, plus lost time. The first time you try to squeeze it in tired you are going to mess something up. My outdoor storage is cheap, secured, insured, and keeps my neighbors off my back.
Click to expand...


I thought that sounded like the best plan...

...but I'll be interested to see how the "hack it off" plan goes...:D

Greg
 
WTF is a saw zaw? :flipoff2:

Personally, I'd leave the whole box on, and deal with parking it. Why?

ALOT more room inside once ou unload the jeep.. Put a skeeter net down from the door opening, and you've got a great evening place to sit out of the weather.. just more room for anything, really.

Just my $.02
 
The only reason I'd suggest keeping the box intact would be so you could bring all your tools and stuff without having to worry about somebody walking off with them while your on the trail.
 
I would keep it intact also. If you can fit it in there just be careful when you bring it home. I might be able to get you a pilon to save the house. Keeping the box will allow you to open up the back end during bad weather for a place to hand out. You can also lock up all your tools, jeep doors, and other misc. things that people would walk off with. Add a cheap AC unit you would have a comfortable place to work on after trail fixes. Take a look at racing trailers, those guys do tons of cool stuff to keep the space useable. I think this build is going to sway me away from a bus build to a diesel box truck build. Plus it looks like all the RV parts would be easier to add into the mix.
 
Good thoughts keep em coming... One other idea voodoo mentioned was to chop some and leave an enclosed but open area of about 6' this would leave shop area but still be open to do some work etc.. (inside the box is 93" so this would only leave 5" on each side... jusy enough room to skinny by

Reguardless, no cutting immediatly... Step 1 is tie downs and hit the road :)

Locking storage -The RV part will be 100% sealed off with standard lockable RV door(s). Also the is plenty of room for some side truck boxes. I plan at least 1 for jacks, cribbing, wrenches, and other road side stuff.. Did i mention this thing has OBA :) a standard big rig air pump.. Need to put a guage and see what PSI it puts out..

Porch ??? Place to hang out if it rains ? Val and I can easily fit in the RV section... you guys must be thinking of where you all will want to hang out :flipoff2: Ya i see the point.... one more thing to consider....

Good news is i dug out some paper work from the truck and it isnt as heavy as reported its only 11570 empty... with a GVRW of 17998 (let just call it 18 :) ) with a cargo/load of ~6400 so minus the 4500# jeep leaves me with 1920# for building materials etc.. A little more cushion that I was thinking....
 
You could always put a retractable awning thing over the back half so you could use it as a porch thing while your rig isn't on there. Then you get the best of both.
 
Idears

:popcorn: I would not even consider cutting the van apart. Get the tie downs in there, keep the jeep in there out of the weather, no worry about a top, tarp, etc. Plus .... Rolling workshop for the rest of us !! :D You could be like the Campground Autozone...

lots of other uses too...moving, temp storage, bachelor pad ...4 when you wife locks you out cuz she's had enuff Xtreme 4x4, Fourwheeler TV, NC4x4, etc...ask me how I know....

Just like any shop/garage...you can never have enough room!!

You do need to put that stinger piece on the front bumper though 4 sure!!

Maybe just have a canopy on the side or back that rolls out for working under and some work lights on, air hose reel, etc.

John
 
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