Tires for the tow rig

MR. GADGET

MR. GADGET

New Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Location
Raleigh NC
Ok here is the junk.
I have and want load range E tires in 265-70-17 nothing else for now.
stock it came with Michelin LTX A/S (Highway All-Season)

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=13

Thinking a little better tread would be
Goodyear Wrangler SilentArmor (Off Road All-Terrain)

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes&place=21

or
Dueler A/T REVO
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Dueler+A/T+Revo

I have two that are still good got a blowout last year and two that are about gone with 52k on them so was thinking it would be best to sell the other two and get 4 or run the new on the back and the old up front for a year or so then replace them to have 4 of the same type and brand.
Anyone see a problem running different tires of the same size but different tread front and rear. 4W(ABS)
The other option would be to find someone that wants some for fronts on a 3500 DRW or something like that.
So what you all think.
Jon
 
I've ran a couple of sets of Duelers and always liked them. They used to have a 50,000 mi treadwear warranty, don't know if they still do though.

That's probably what I'll put on my tacoma next.
 
The vehicles that I nstalled the REVO's on the owners were real happy wit them. I have B'stones on my Runner as well, always been happy with them.

As for running mis matched tires on a 4x4, could cause drive line issues if in 4x4 similer to slightly mis matched gears. due to both casing construction of the different brands and due to tread wear.

I had this issue with my old pick up when I had Goodyear HT's on it, one pair newer than the other, and one set was a hevier load rating. both same size/modle tire just slightly different construction. running in 4wheel drive I would have to either find a way to make the wheels spin before or just knock the shift lever into neutral. once I changed tires to 4 matching all was well.
 
MR. GADGET said:
Anyone see a problem running different tires of the same size but different tread front and rear. 4W(ABS)
Click to expand...

The ABS should be close enough, but there are size differences between different MFR's of the same stamped size tire... I'd stick with matching ones..

My truck was a royal PITA to get into 4wd when I first got it.. had Pirelli AT's on the front and BFG AT's on the back, of the same 235/85-16 size, all LR E. Once I put 6 matching tires on it, it got much better.
 
Is the truck 4wd? I have a 2wd F250. I have run different types front and rear and have not had any problems. Bridgestone Duelers are great tires, but they wear a little too fast on the rear of a unloaded truck. They do better with weight on them.

Congrats for wanting to go with a load range E. I feel better about people now since I just finished reading a different post about towing.

As a point of interest, in a 16" rim (don't know about 17) the Dueler 285 load range D is rates to hold about the same weight as the 265 load range E
 
63cj5universal said:
Is the truck 4wd? I have a 2wd F250. I have run different types front and rear and have not had any problems. Bridgestone Duelers are great tires, but they wear a little too fast on the rear of a unloaded truck. They do better with weight on them.
Congrats for wanting to go with a load range E. I feel better about people now since I just finished reading a different post about towing.
As a point of interest, in a 16" rim (don't know about 17) the Dueler 285 load range D is rates to hold about the same weight as the 265 load range E
Click to expand...

Yes its a 4x4. IF I do run the different brands I will mount one and measure it first. Now I run same tires but one has 20k on it and other 52K.
Don't run 4x4 much other then weather or towing into camps and it is slick so I'm not sure I would know if I had 4.10 and 3.73 mixed gears if you know what I mean.
As for the weight and load range, been there and don't like it. I have had C,D,E on my 96 and will not go with anything other then E for towing.
I had 2 sets of rime and tires for the last truck so You can tell a difference when you change them out after 30min of driving.
The weight is part but the load range has to do with the sidewall and tread.
D load range tires WILL hold the weight but will get hotter and have more flex in them. That is one of the reason people have problems with trailer tires carring the weight ok but over heat and then blow.
Guy in here is going through it now on a trailer. Just lost 2 tires that are the same weight but the load was a B or C not the D that he needed.
Tire place said he must have overloaded the trailer because the weight was ok and the load rating did not make any difference.
Jon
 
will just throw this out there as a curve ball, I found out that BFG A/Ts had E ranges too! I picked up a set, 265/65/16 (i think...stock excursion size anyway) and I have been very happy with them.

Prob less than 5000 miles on them, (and 800ish miles of that towing camper to/from beach), look and feel great on the road and while towing.

Left the tire dealer with 52-53ish lbs PSI, went home and pumped them all to 72ish PSI. (Rated 75lbs PSI cold)...felt much better then on the road, were a bit rolly polly before on my 8000lb suv.

I was going to go the bridgestone revo route before I found the BFG ATs in E....

Sam
 
SHINTON said:
will just throw this out there as a curve ball, I found out that BFG A/Ts had E ranges too! I picked up a set, 265/65/16 (i think...stock excursion size anyway) and I have been very happy with them.
Prob less than 5000 miles on them, (and 800ish miles of that towing camper to/from beach), look and feel great on the road and while towing.
Left the tire dealer with 52-53ish lbs PSI, went home and pumped them all to 72ish PSI. (Rated 75lbs PSI cold)...felt much better then on the road, were a bit rolly polly before on my 8000lb suv.
I was going to go the bridgestone revo route before I found the BFG ATs in E....
Sam
Click to expand...

But 17" is the killer hard to find anything in 17" E rated.

Jon
 
285-70/17 BFG ATs (rated D) have the same weight rating per tire as a lot of E rated tires at 3195lbs. That's probably the tire I'll be going with as soon as I can afford it. I've got 40k on the stock Michelins right now.
 
GSW said:
285-70/17 BFG ATs (rated D) have the same weight rating per tire as a lot of E rated tires at 3195lbs. That's probably the tire I'll be going with as soon as I can afford it. I've got 40k on the stock Michelins right now.
Click to expand...

Have you ever towed with tires like that in the past?

I went with about the same size on the old truck and will not do it again.
Just to soft. Yes they have the weight but are softer and don't carry the high PSI like load range E. Maybe they will do you better.
Also on the last rig the brakes would not hold up to the larger tires.
I'm just after the LR E and about stock tire size.
BTW I have 52k+ on the stock tires and I have not rotated them at all, still going strong. Should get 60K or better. The old truck was killing LR D tires in 30K the stock LR E went 20K I love the Michelins they put on them stock but just wanted a little more tread not that I ever needed it, but you know!!
Jon
 
Jon - I'm glad I'm not the only one who won't run a "D" regardless of the stamped weight capacity...
 
Rich said:
Jon - I'm glad I'm not the only one who won't run a "D" regardless of the stamped weight capacity ...
Click to expand...

E all the way!!
You know something:confused: Why do people get a truck like we have for towing one or to buggys on a trailer and they first thing they do is get larger tires "d" rater or less then do junk to the motor to take up for the power loss? These are tow rigs not off road rigs. How many people do something like this for off road rigs? Take a Rig and say a K-5 with a 305 and 3.08 gears go with a lift 35" to 38" tires then find out is is a slug then change to a 383 stroker with the works to get the 350+hp it will take to keep up. Not many most go up in tires then change gears would we not? Think what would happen to this K-5 first time on the trail you trash it and say POS K-5!!! But on the tow rigs everyone does it bigger tires and no gear swap then trash the drivetrain. Bigger tires and more power to take up for the power loss than you trash the trans or clutch and just tear stuff up. Then thinking it should have held up. Tow rigs are tow rigs and (my thought) is not to build them up as a off road rig. I see people all the time that take a 1/2 ton or up lift it, big tires then still tow with it then ask why the hitch broke or the trans went south and so on. My old truck is still towing strong with all stock now around 150k or more. I did try the big tires 33"-34" but it towed like crap and trashed parts. Changed back and the guy that got it from me has been real happy with it.
BTY he wanted to save money and went with 265-75-16 XL range d tires the guy said will work good for a lot less money and after 10K they were shot and he went to "E" been happy and getting a lot of miles out of them.

Thats my book for today
Jon
 
Sorry I tried to help. The actual numeric value that the weight ratings provide just seeems like a better way to compare tires than the letter rating system. But that's just me and maybe I'm waaay off base with that one. It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong, just the second. :D

My motor/suspension is stock as a rock and will stay that way. And I really don't consider a 285 on a 3/4 ton truck to be a huge tire at a whopping 0.9" taller than stock. The benefits to me will come on the highway when I'm turning a slightly lower rpm in 6th gear. You can buy my E rated Michelins if you want...probably 15-20K left on em.
 
GSW said:
Sorry I tried to help. The actual numeric value that the weight ratings provide just seeems like a better way to compare tires than the letter rating system. But that's just me and maybe I'm waaay off base with that one. It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong, just the second. :D
My motor/suspension is stock as a rock and will stay that way. And I really don't consider a 285 on a 3/4 ton truck to be a huge tire at a whopping 0.9" taller than stock. The benefits to me will come on the highway when I'm turning a slightly lower rpm in 6th gear. You can buy my E rated Michelins if you want...probably 15-20K left on em.
Click to expand...

IF you want to sell them cool.
I'm not picking on you talking more like the people that go from stock to 35" or so is what I was thinking.
There is a lot more to tires then the weight. Dad worked for goodyear for 5 years and G'dad worked for 30+ year. Got to watch them made in Akron Ohio.
The death wobble in these trucks has been common for trucks that have the lighter tires and get the sidewall flex. Its also harder on the front end when the lighter sidewall tires flex and bounce. That is what I have found.
I did have the use of to sets tires and rims and drive a little then change out to see the difference. You may not see anything different till you tow
You also have a 6 speed it is a little different then doing it with an auto trans.
Just look at some of the people out there and see if you think they are safe.
Like the 1/2 ton Chevy today with 36" looking tires towing a box trailer (looked real heavy) with the back of the trailer hitting the ground and the front point to the sky.

J
 
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