The side piece - "cheap" Samurai beater

[paulevans76]

I picked this 1994 Samurai base model up from a member here last summer, and figured hey, it runs, I'll throw some quick cheap mods at it and have a fun rig to ride in while I figure out what direction to take my main rig. I paid more than I wanted to get a Sami, but this was last summer, COVID projects were starting to drive up prices, but I think it was pre-stimmys, so it would be even worse to get into a half decent one nowadays.



The background on the rig: it's a great 20 footer, but it was a beach rig, so there is lots o rust. 105k miles and all stock, just some body cancer (and every bolt and nut). But frame was fine. Not excited about the rust, but it also gave me some peace of mind that I wouldn't be destroying a mint Zuk. Plusses are EFI, updated output in the tcase, not hacked up by 17 previous owners. I think it was actually a one owner before the guy I got it from bought it.

I pressure washed the heck out of everything and went through a few cans of rust converter spray. I got a smittybilt soft top so I could zip off the back windows n stuff. Driving it around was super fun, like a go 4x4 go kart.

I wanted to keep it light, low, not huge tires that would necessitate $$$ axle upgrades or swap, but I wanted it to handle hard trails.

Here's what was and has been waiting for me to get off my ass and get done:

Trail gear family style cage
6.5:1 TG gear set and trail tough shifter for true neutral
Lockright locker and backing plate mod for the rear axle
Spartan and [x birf rings x] RCV's for the front
knuckle rebuild kit
Electric power steering (from a Nissan Versa)
31" cheapo M/T's
OME rear springs front and rear, OME shocks
5k SXS winch and winch bumper (and tow bar for flat towing)
Sliders, skids, rear bumper
GM alternator swap

 

[paulevans76]

The quick and cheap aspects blew up when I initially botched the alternator swap install and spent many weekends trying to work that out. I found out that the plug and pigtail sometimes comes with the colors reversed

Then the rough running, bogging sputtering hesitating took all my time. I replaced almost every ignition part and no dice. Had the ECU rebuilt. PO replaced the fuel regulator already. Though it was the fuel pump, likely rust or debris in the tank. It was usually the worst after a fill up. I checked the vapor separator and finally tested the charcoal canister and she was straight plugged up. So I think at least a little bit of it was vapor lock. Found the cheapest 2 port charcoal canister I could find, like $50 from a miata, and that seemed to make a big difference. Now it only drives like crap occasionally and when it's not warmed up. Probably still have crud in the tank, but I'm going to wait until I run out of gas to pull it, since for some reason, the EFI tanks have no drain plug.

 

[paulevans76]

I did manage to piece together a suspension package that met my needs. I went with OME rear springs all around.

Initially, I was going to go OME rears and stock rears up front, but when I did that, the front was actually lower than it started. I didn't feel like experimenting with mixed packs of 30 year old springs that still might not work, so I got another pair of OME rears and put them up front. Moved the spring hanger hole back about 1.5" and cobbled together some temporary 4.25" shackles. Worked a treat!

Lucked out and some OME shocks I bought 2nd hand worked well with a little shimming of the bushings. I think they are YJ and JK models, but somehow they barely fit and I should have around 8-9" travel at each shock.



The end results clears the 31's on stock wheels w/ 1.5" spacers.

 

[paulevans76]

Next up was converting the huge c channel bumper with an awesome fish sticker to something more useful.



I basically started with the plates that would mount to the front crossmember, I cardboarded those and cut them out of 1/4" plate and welded 2 together for each side. Then I mounted the bumper flat and burned it all in. I cut the corners off and flipped the over, burned that in. And added a 2" receiver.



Gotta keep Mr. Fish - he'll be clearcoated on the bottom side now:






I was worried about 4 bolts through sheetmetal being the only thing keeping all of this attached. I found out you could sleeve the front x member with 1.25" pipe, so I cut a piece that I had around, smacked it through, and boogered it in there:




I also cut a few more 1/4" plate pieces to plate the top bolt hole on each side and tie into the crossmember and sleeve.



Booger heaven, but it ought to stay in place now.

I've since mounted the winch in it and I just need to mount that up and I'll get some more pics up.

Next thing to tackle will be the tcase gears, since this thing is a DAWG with 31's. 65hp and 2k lb is fine on stock tires, but I need to get her geared down to get some of that zip back.

 

[DirkaDirka875]

Cheapest place I’ve found to buy gears is from Summit racing. Hard to beat the free shipping.

 

[paulevans76]

Cheapest place I’ve found to buy gears is from Summit racing. Hard to beat the free shipping.

I got some new but 2nd hand on fb marketplace and saved myself a couple bucks. Also got a rebuild kit, the shifter kit, and a cradle for it. So once I go in, it's going to be all in.

Got the bumper done and winch and tow points all mounted. Still need to get some different blinker/running lights, just have them zip tied in the fender behind the bumper for now.



Tested out the new adjustable hitch and tow bar.



Can't wait to tote it out somewhere fun.

 

[paulevans76]

Quick update, nothing incredibly photo worthy yet, but here's the scene of the crime a few days back:



Made it through the tcase regear with the trail gear 6.5's without much drama. I bought a cheap HF press for the job, but turns out the one I got is too small so I had to go grab a gear puller from the local parts store and do it with that and good old hammers, sockets, and vise for getting new bearings and stuff back on.

I installed the twisted T shifter rails from trail tough for the true neutral for flat towing, and that was a bit of a headache, but eventually got through it (even with the grainy 2" black and white pictures in the directions). I did managed to drop the shifter detent balls a million times during the install and only lost 1 for good

I also managed to mangle a thread on the end of the front output shaft which ended up mangling a flange nut when I hit it with the impact. I was able to carefully remove the 2 offending threads off the end of the output and run a good flange nut down with full thread engagement. I have a good samaritan from one of the FB groups mailing me the detent ball and flange nut I need to finish up.

I've got the ZOR snatch cradle and again, I don't know what it is with instructions in the zuk community, but crappy black and white photos, this time with some middle aged woman side boob in every shot. Seriously, wth... Anyway, I went ahead and painted the parts and I will get it installed on the case while I wait for little parts to finish the case.

I was hoping to finish up a lot more prior to this weekend and take it to Uwharrie, but it's baseball/teeball season, so I'm working as a kid taxi and asst coach 2-3 days a week and wrench time is limited. We will see if I can get the case buttoned up make sure it shifts and doesn't make any crazy noises. And I'd have to at least get the longer brake lines installed. Otherwise, the trusty trooper will go.

 

[jeepin' jen]

Quick update, nothing incredibly photo worthy yet, but here's the scene of the crime a few days back:

View attachment 344670

Made it through the tcase regear with the trail gear 6.5's without much drama. I bought a cheap HF press for the job, but turns out the one I got is too small so I had to go grab a gear puller from the local parts store and do it with that and good old hammers, sockets, and vise for getting new bearings and stuff back on.

I installed the twisted T shifter rails from trail tough for the true neutral for flat towing, and that was a bit of a headache, but eventually got through it (even with the grainy 2" black and white pictures in the directions). I did managed to drop the shifter detent balls a million times during the install and only lost 1 for good

I also managed to mangle a thread on the end of the front output shaft which ended up mangling a flange nut when I hit it with the impact. I was able to carefully remove the 2 offending threads off the end of the output and run a good flange nut down with full thread engagement. I have a good samaritan from one of the FB groups mailing me the detent ball and flange nut I need to finish up.

I've got the ZOR snatch cradle and again, I don't know what it is with instructions in the zuk community, but crappy black and white photos, this time with some middle aged woman side boob in every shot. Seriously, wth... Anyway, I went ahead and painted the parts and I will get it installed on the case while I wait for little parts to finish the case.

I was hoping to finish up a lot more prior to this weekend and take it to Uwharrie, but it's baseball/teeball season, so I'm working as a kid taxi and asst coach 2-3 days a week and wrench time is limited. We will see if I can get the case buttoned up make sure it shifts and doesn't make any crazy noises. And I'd have to at least get the longer brake lines installed. Otherwise, the trusty trooper will go.

Why did my curiosity get the best of me, I can't unsee it

 

[adamk]

Quick update, nothing incredibly photo worthy yet, but here's the scene of the crime a few days back:

View attachment 344670

Made it through the tcase regear with the trail gear 6.5's without much drama. I bought a cheap HF press for the job, but turns out the one I got is too small so I had to go grab a gear puller from the local parts store and do it with that and good old hammers, sockets, and vise for getting new bearings and stuff back on.

I installed the twisted T shifter rails from trail tough for the true neutral for flat towing, and that was a bit of a headache, but eventually got through it (even with the grainy 2" black and white pictures in the directions). I did managed to drop the shifter detent balls a million times during the install and only lost 1 for good

I also managed to mangle a thread on the end of the front output shaft which ended up mangling a flange nut when I hit it with the impact. I was able to carefully remove the 2 offending threads off the end of the output and run a good flange nut down with full thread engagement. I have a good samaritan from one of the FB groups mailing me the detent ball and flange nut I need to finish up.

I've got the ZOR snatch cradle and again, I don't know what it is with instructions in the zuk community, but crappy black and white photos, this time with some middle aged woman side boob in every shot. Seriously, wth... Anyway, I went ahead and painted the parts and I will get it installed on the case while I wait for little parts to finish the case.

I was hoping to finish up a lot more prior to this weekend and take it to Uwharrie, but it's baseball/teeball season, so I'm working as a kid taxi and asst coach 2-3 days a week and wrench time is limited. We will see if I can get the case buttoned up make sure it shifts and doesn't make any crazy noises. And I'd have to at least get the longer brake lines installed. Otherwise, the trusty trooper will go.

So I read your post and thought that it surely couldnt have been side boob in every picture but you're right. If they had just left her face out of it, it wouldn't have been as bad. I'm glad to not be part of that community haha

 

[paulevans76]

I've got nothing against middle aged ladies or side boobs or middle aged ladies' side boobs. But c'mon, these are the official instructions. I mainly just don't want those sitting on the printer or on my workbench for the wife or kids to find. First, it's weird, and second, if I'm going to get busted for lady pics, I'd prefer if my wife thought I had better standards.

 

[DirkaDirka875]

I've got nothing against middle aged ladies or side boobs or middle aged ladies' side boobs. But c'mon, these are the official instructions. I mainly just don't want those sitting on the printer or on my workbench for the wife or kids to find. First, it's weird, and second, if I'm going to get busted for lady pics, I'd prefer if my wife thought I had better standards.

Oh I can definitely relate to this. I had one of the Zuks offroad stickers on one of my cabinets in the shop that had been there for forever. Wife saw it and man did that lead to a big fight. So im right there with you on this.

 

[paulevans76]

Got a detent ball and flange nut yesterday, and got the case mounted in the snatch this afternoon.






Just got it mocked into the "hip" and "rib" brackets that attach to the frame. Need to attach driveshafts, install my longer brake lines, and then see if everything actually works! Tested the shifter on the bench and it was fine, so that's a good sign.

Heading to Uwharrie tonight or tomorrow AM, hopefully it will be in this little guy.

 

[paulevans76]

This thing ended up kickin' my ass on Friday. I just could not get more than one bolt per side to get all the way through the cradle mounting sleeves and out the other side of the frame brackets. It was probably 1/16" - 1/8" off and I just couldn't pound it through or even get a pry bar on it in a way that would work... nearly broke my nose when I thought I might have had a good pry going on and it slipped I hadn't even started on the front brake lines at this point.

So in my haste I called it quits for the day and focused on getting the trooper in shape to head and and wheel and make it back. That didn't end up working either. It's got a holley tbi unit on it which has some nice features, but I think the injectors are leaking or just generally garbage. They don't have the best reputation. So it was running fairly crappy, and not generally confidence inspiring. Also getting major vibes from the rear - need to figure that out... At the halfway to Uwharrie point, I called it and turned around. When I got home, the air cleaner wingnut had managed to vibrate itself free but luckily didn't disappear. Anyway, enough of the trooper.

I ended up just taking the GX out to camp and hung around and BS'ed and had fun with everyone. It was then that I realized when I was talking to folks about it, that on the Sami case cradle bolts that I could get through, there was a decent amount of thread beyond the nuts, so I am now going to try tapering the ends of the offending bolts enough to persuade them through.

Club has a Gulches run in 2 weeks so I will see what I can get done before then! Hopefully at least what I'd hoped to accomplish in 2 hours on Friday. I'm a little skeered that if I start in on the front axle stuff (lockright, birf rings, knuckle rebuild) that I'll run into more unforeseen issues and screw myself out of another ride. I might need to bribe some buddies into a wrench fest.

 

[paulevans76]

Quick update - the tapered bolts trick worked! Spent about an hour under there wrasslin' with it a little to get everything lined back up and tightened up, and then getting the driveshafts bolted in and filling her up with gear oil. It's got back all the 65hp punch it was missing. Next will be brake lines & winch wiring. If I end up too busy to do anything else at that point, at least it's wheelable.

edit: tested the low range and I'm going to confirm that 89:1 is better than 30:1 or whatever it was

Also, after struggling to get the speedo cable seated and speedo working, I finally got it fully in the case and as soon as I took off it broke

 

[paulevans76]

Tcase shot:


Got extended brake lines in the front from a sidekick I believe, also replaced the warped rotors and threw on new pads. Stops nice and straight now.

Wired in the winch:


This little SxS winch had very impressive speed and amp draw specs, so hopefully when I need it, it will be as impressive in real life.

Pay no attention to my OSHA approved battery strap. Added the terminal dohickeys to help keep things somewhat more organized.


Got the rag joint eliminator on as well. Figure it would be easy insurance for the shakedown run this weekend. This should have been a 15-30 min job, but ya gotta love some rust. It took a LOT of heat and a LOT of violence to get through each step. From getting it off the steering box and ujoint at the firewall, and getting both ends back on, to getting the shaft to collapse enough to get it to fit. I spent the better part of an afternoon on it.


I probably should have just waited until I install electric power steering, because it will all have to come back out.

Stuff left to do:

elec power steering
rear axle - spartan locked 3rd, backing plate mod, brake maintenance
front axle - lockright and birf rings
cage
probably need to clean the tank out and install a fuel pump at some point

Once all that is done, should just be able to roll with it for a while and focus wrench time elsewhere.

 

[Bebop]

That thing is badass !

Make sure to reinforce the TCase mounts on the frame though, seen my fair share rip off.

And don't change the plan, keep it simple like you're doing now, and you're going to have a ton of fun for the years to come.

 

[paulevans76]

That thing is badass !

Make sure to reinforce the TCase mounts on the frame though, seen my fair share rip off.

And don't change the plan, keep it simple like you're doing now, and you're going to have a ton of fun for the years to come.

Thanks. I'll check the case mounts on the frame after the first ride and see where I can add some beef.

And yeah, I have heard so many people express that they had the most fun with these when it was at an early stage with minimal mods, so that's what I'm aiming for. If for some reason I start breaking axles I'll probably just upgrade to toyotas and max out the tires at like a 33. I want to keep it cheap and simple but able to hang on some fun trails.

 

[Bebop]

Just get some RCV axles. I had some in mine with 31s and they held up great !

 

[paulevans76]

Just get some RCV axles. I had some in mine with 31s and they held up great !

They seem like the ticket if you're keeping the stock axles. I was trying to find some of the double tough shafts when I was parts gathering, as they seemed like the best bang for the buck, but seems like they are no longer sold. The TG "longfields" seem like a very marginal strength increase over stock, and the RCVs were more than I cared to invest in the stock axles. Plus I got a set of stock shafts with birf rings installed and a lockright for next to nothing, so I'm going to see how that holds up.

 

[Bebop]

They seem like the ticket if you're keeping the stock axles. I was trying to find some of the double tough shafts when I was parts gathering, as they seemed like the best bang for the buck, but seems like they are no longer sold. The TG "longfields" seem like a very marginal strength increase over stock, and the RCVs were more than I cared to invest in the stock axles. Plus I got a set of stock shafts with birf rings installed and a lockright for next to nothing, so I'm going to see how that holds up.

I was just trying to say that moving to yota axles is a lot of changes/work for very little improvement. Investing a few bucks in the stock axles is not that bad of an idea if you stay on 31/33s.

I was able to break the stock shafts with rings fairly easily with 31s.

 

[paulevans76]

I was just trying to say that moving to yota axles is a lot of changes/work for very little improvement. Investing a few bucks in the stock axles is not that bad of an idea if you stay on 31/33s.

I was able to break the stock shafts with rings fairly easily with 31s.

Gotcha. I bet you are right that it's more effort than it may be worth until you get to 33+ tires. On paper, the weight and ground clearance penalty is not bad at all, but driveshafts and/or adapters, reworking the spring hangers and perches on the axles, etc, it's probably more cost effective to go with the RCVs if you stay 33s or under.

What was your setup like when you broke the stock shafts?

 

[Bebop]

1.3 EFI, stock clutch, japan 6.5:1 with a mighty kong and a spine, stock R&Ps.
I broke the stock shafts in a very short amount if time. First or second ride.
Put in the RCVs, then beat the crap out of them for many years without issues. The rig is still driving around these days, with the same shafts.

 

[paulevans76]

1.3 EFI, stock clutch, japan 6.5:1 with a mighty kong and a spine, stock R&Ps.
I broke the stock shafts in a very short amount if time. First or second ride.
Put in the RCVs, then beat the crap out of them for many years without issues. The rig is still driving around these days, with the same shafts.

Nice, that's about like mine minus the Japan gears. did you have lockers or welded diffs in it?

 

[Bebop]

LockRights.
Went with a 1530 for the front since I needed the 26sp side gears.
1510 in the back and re-used the stock gears.

 

[paulevans76]

Cool. I already have the front LR 1510 I believe with the ringed shafts but I may go ahead and pony up for the RCVs. I'm trying to keep it low dollar but I also wanna party. I should be able to use the 1510 with my spare rear's side gears.

I'm also eyeballin' the silverback rear shafts. Might as well...