RufusTheRam
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh
does a spring help on the top end mph speaking? i'd love to get a few more mph out of my bus...
The "new" towrig...
- Thread starter Caver Dave
- Start date
If your top speed is RPM limited (which I'm 99% sure it is on your bus), then yes, the spring will help. The spring
Do you have the VE (rotary 89-93 style) pump or P (inline 94-98.5 style) pump on your truck? On the VE you just get a spring - on the P you get a "spring kit", but not sure what all that involves.
Anyway, changing the spring ups the governor setting in the pump, so that it waits until a higher RPM to de-fuel (which is how the governor limits RPM). It's funny - some of the stock trucks can start de-fueling as low as like 2300 rpm since the stock rev limit is 2750-ish.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
Better check the pics! It has A stack... multiple take up too much room and don't provide any benefit other than extra noise (I promise the straight piped single 5" is loud enough!... ask my neighbors!
)While mine will run to about 2500, it gets VERY lethargic about 2200... spring will be on order this week!
spraypaintman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
Looks good! I saw that after I posted. heh
RufusTheRam
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh
yep, it is. since it doesn't have a tach, i'm not sure at what rpm it starts defueling, but you can definitely see it do it from the boost guage. it drops from ~25 to ~10.
i was surprised to find it has the p pump (which has already been turned up a little). i figured it would be the ve being a 91.
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Lakeland, FL
the weight of 110 gallons of grease sure would make it ride smooth I bet!
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
FWIW, the stock 30gal would still pump dino diesel & the bed tank is 80gal...
That's a few days worth of accumulation at a few restaurants.
That's a few days worth of accumulation at a few restaurants.
greg slade
The Moderated
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- timberlake
you will easily get that much grease in one stop at the right place. I regularly grab around 120-175 gals at one stop. The cubies become your friend real quick.
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
I am just curious, and not to steer off topic (or maybe it actually is, for Dave) - how does one collect, transport, and store that much grease at a time? Do you just keep an extra tank in your truck, and empty it into an even bigger tank at home? How? Jsut seems like a logistical headache.
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
How the operation has been explained to me...
- With the proper 12V transfer pump, hose, & strainer...
- Pump grease into either the "dirty" side of a Greasel tank, 55g poly drum, or as Greg said... 5g "cubies" (what the frsh oil comes in)... some sock filter at this point
- Haul it home and let it sit, either in the cubies or larger vessel
- Sitting (and warming in the sun during warm months) allows the particulate to settle
- Once settled, pump into "clean" side of greasel or dedicated grease tank.
True, but when you factor in a nice trip, say to Tellico, from what I hear will take 80g's of diesel... now multiply that times the going rate, like $3/g = $240 bucks for fuel was just added to your budget. PITA? Probably, but think if that's ALL you burned (save the dino needed for startups & shutdowns)... you end up pocketing 98% of your yearly fuel costs. Worth it for some folks, headache for others...
- With the proper 12V transfer pump, hose, & strainer...
- Pump grease into either the "dirty" side of a Greasel tank, 55g poly drum, or as Greg said... 5g "cubies" (what the frsh oil comes in)... some sock filter at this point
- Haul it home and let it sit, either in the cubies or larger vessel
- Sitting (and warming in the sun during warm months) allows the particulate to settle
- Once settled, pump into "clean" side of greasel or dedicated grease tank.
True, but when you factor in a nice trip, say to Tellico, from what I hear will take 80g's of diesel... now multiply that times the going rate, like $3/g = $240 bucks for fuel was just added to your budget. PITA? Probably, but think if that's ALL you burned (save the dino needed for startups & shutdowns)... you end up pocketing 98% of your yearly fuel costs. Worth it for some folks, headache for others...
greg slade
The Moderated
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- timberlake
my tank hold 80 gals, 40 unfiltered and 40 filtered. i will usually start filtering immediately right at the grease source and end up filling both sides of the tank. i then carry as many cubies as I have and fill them too. i have it set up nice in the back of my truck complete with a chair, tunes, and a beverage holder. i can generally grab about 125 gals in 20 minutes including filtering the first 40 in.
when i get home i snag the cubies and set them in the yard in the sun and use them as I need them. i will have a 500 gallon oil tank this summer set up and then I will gather more frequently and come home and pump it in the tank.
when i get home i snag the cubies and set them in the yard in the sun and use them as I need them. i will have a 500 gallon oil tank this summer set up and then I will gather more frequently and come home and pump it in the tank.
greg slade
The Moderated
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- timberlake
my secret honey pot generally goes thru about 350gals a week
MMMM good stuff. Bigwoody once said "runnin grease ain't for everyone, you gotta hike up your skirt and get dirty if you wanna save the money" Or something like that. It's nasty and smelly and will get on your clothes , but without it I would not be able to wheel as frequently as I do. I will be driving my truck this week, about 550--600 miles, I am leaving in the AM with 80 gals of grease and maybe 3-5 gals of diesel
MMMM good stuff. Bigwoody once said "runnin grease ain't for everyone, you gotta hike up your skirt and get dirty if you wanna save the money" Or something like that. It's nasty and smelly and will get on your clothes , but without it I would not be able to wheel as frequently as I do. I will be driving my truck this week, about 550--600 miles, I am leaving in the AM with 80 gals of grease and maybe 3-5 gals of diesel
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
"Secret" huh? 
RatLabGuy
You look like a monkey and smell like one too
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Location
- Churchville, MD
No doubt that it's worth it. If my Toy was deseil I would have already converted it. Just not practical for me at the moment, since I don't use a tow rig.
Plus, for tax years '06 and '07, you can get an alternative energy tax deduction
I was just thinking through the logistics of physically dealing with 125 gal of oil once you have it in a canister in the bed of your truck. It's not like you can just pick up that canister and unload it to get it out of the way... but i suppose that's where the 5 gal Cubies coem in?
No doubt that it's worth it. If my Toy was deseil I would have already converted it. Just not practical for me at the moment, since I don't use a tow rig.
Plus, for tax years '06 and '07, you can get an alternative energy tax deduction
I was just thinking through the logistics of physically dealing with 125 gal of oil once you have it in a canister in the bed of your truck. It's not like you can just pick up that canister and unload it to get it out of the way... but i suppose that's where the 5 gal Cubies coem in?
FYI: if you try to collect alternative energy tax break.. you better be paying road tax and buy the NC coloring die to make it legal.. otherwsie you may get in trouble..
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
ah, Grasshopper!
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
Gauges are in!
Had to take a short break from workin on the Moss... about 16 days straight of wrenching (both 4.27 axles are in... just have to set the caster, weld the front perches, fill the diffs with 90w & then pull the transfer
) has burnt me to a crisp...
Anyways, I've had the gauges for 3-4 weeks, molded the pillar mount 2 weeks ago, and was ready for some progress on the CTD too! Started about 1100 and finished up about 1700... lighting wired to dash circuit, manifold tapped, & everything connected (gonna put the tranny temp sensor in tomorrow). While the dash face was off, I clean the radio & greased the connectors and replaced a couple of burnt bulbs (I wondered if the HVAC controls were actually lit)
Also, yesterday cut the welds loose on the 200# headache rack (thanks Jordan)... while VERY heavily & nicely built, welded directly to the box wasn't doing the bed any favors... Since it was gone, I replaced the rear sliding window latch to slow up the fawkin neighborhoodlums. In the next couple of weeks, I'll rethink the mounting, cut a few horz slats out (WAY too busy to see out of), & see if needs anything else before going back on...
Thanks to the other 1st Gen & CTD guys for the inspiration
Had to take a short break from workin on the Moss... about 16 days straight of wrenching (both 4.27 axles are in... just have to set the caster, weld the front perches, fill the diffs with 90w & then pull the transfer
) has burnt me to a crisp...Anyways, I've had the gauges for 3-4 weeks, molded the pillar mount 2 weeks ago, and was ready for some progress on the CTD too! Started about 1100 and finished up about 1700... lighting wired to dash circuit, manifold tapped, & everything connected (gonna put the tranny temp sensor in tomorrow). While the dash face was off, I clean the radio & greased the connectors and replaced a couple of burnt bulbs (I wondered if the HVAC controls were actually lit)
Also, yesterday cut the welds loose on the 200# headache rack (thanks Jordan
)... while VERY heavily & nicely built, welded directly to the box wasn't doing the bed any favors... Since it was gone, I replaced the rear sliding window latch to slow up the fawkin neighborhoodlums. In the next couple of weeks, I'll rethink the mounting, cut a few horz slats out (WAY too busy to see out of), & see if needs anything else before going back on...Thanks to the other 1st Gen & CTD guys for the inspiration
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mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Lakeland, FL
I still find it humours to see a tach that goes up to a whopping 4
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
Update...
After 8 months of owning the CTD, I still hadn't towed anything... After the tranny guage went in, high tranny temps under load were evident and I couldn't risk smoking the tranny (just yet).
I had the tranny serviced by a very knowledgable Torque-Flite/CTD guy over in Cary. At that time, he pulled the VB, installed the AL plunger (OEM is plastic), tightened up the detent and dropped in fresh ATF+4... the pan was fairly clean (no frags) and the bands he could see with the VB dropped looked good.
The tranny temps were still uber high (would hit 220* empty), so I added a manual switch for the rear coolers fan... still no joy
My gut feeling was the "heat exchanger" (coolant-oil cooler) was compounding the heat. Phil seemed to think it was possible also... despite the "experts" on several CTD boards.
So, on Wednesday afternoon, I bypassed the exchanger... leaving only the rear cooler (w/ fan) and the front cooler plumbed to handle the cooling. Since I was hoping to make URE this weekend, the Moss (& gear) was already loaded, & I took off on my usual 15 mile roundtrip up to King & back...
Took several miles to get above 140* (where the gauge starts... normally would hit 150* before I'd left my neighborhood
). I eased her down on the highway and ran 60-70mph all the way. Tranny never got above 180*!!!! (stayed in the 145*-180* range) with 60*-ish ambient 
Pulled to GSO, then to URE, & back to home yesterday with ZERO issues. I found it would heat up faster if I let the tranny shift itself up thru the gears (shifting at 1700RPMs), so I held the gear to 2500RPMs and she stayed cooler. It would hit 180* from a stop, but drop to 150* after a mile or so. Running in OD down the hills made it go up 10*... just need to get the OD button OFF the dash and up on the shifter where I can get to it a bit easier. The switch for the rear cooler will go inside the cab for better control.
Granted, the ambient was pretty cool on Friday & yesterday, but I don't think it will cause that much jump when it gets hot again. The coolant temp ran about the same as it did in summer, boost was up a bit, and the pyro temps were never an issue (time for more fuel)
After 8 months of owning the CTD, I still hadn't towed anything... After the tranny guage went in, high tranny temps under load were evident and I couldn't risk smoking the tranny (just yet).
I had the tranny serviced by a very knowledgable Torque-Flite/CTD guy over in Cary. At that time, he pulled the VB, installed the AL plunger (OEM is plastic), tightened up the detent and dropped in fresh ATF+4... the pan was fairly clean (no frags) and the bands he could see with the VB dropped looked good.
The tranny temps were still uber high (would hit 220* empty), so I added a manual switch for the rear coolers fan... still no joy
My gut feeling was the "heat exchanger" (coolant-oil cooler) was compounding the heat. Phil seemed to think it was possible also... despite the "experts" on several CTD boards.So, on Wednesday afternoon, I bypassed the exchanger... leaving only the rear cooler (w/ fan) and the front cooler plumbed to handle the cooling. Since I was hoping to make URE this weekend, the Moss (& gear) was already loaded, & I took off on my usual 15 mile roundtrip up to King & back...
Took several miles to get above 140* (where the gauge starts... normally would hit 150* before I'd left my neighborhood
). I eased her down on the highway and ran 60-70mph all the way. Tranny never got above 180*!!!! (stayed in the 145*-180* range) with 60*-ish ambient Pulled to GSO, then to URE, & back to home yesterday with ZERO issues. I found it would heat up faster if I let the tranny shift itself up thru the gears (shifting at 1700RPMs), so I held the gear to 2500RPMs and she stayed cooler. It would hit 180* from a stop, but drop to 150* after a mile or so. Running in OD down the hills made it go up 10*... just need to get the OD button OFF the dash and up on the shifter where I can get to it a bit easier. The switch for the rear cooler will go inside the cab for better control.
Granted, the ambient was pretty cool on Friday & yesterday, but I don't think it will cause that much jump when it gets hot again. The coolant temp ran about the same as it did in summer, boost was up a bit, and the pyro temps were never an issue (time for more fuel
)
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
While still not the "fastest" by a long shot (if I can resolve it idling too high, it needs more fuel!
)... It blew away all the Ford NAs I've driven/had.I'm sure Tater will say "he was taking it easy for me", I managed to keep up with his 8.1L 2500HD
Since I didn't fill up beforehand, I didn't get any mileage numbers... guesstimating about 10mpg. IMHO, not too bad for running 3rd gear, 60-65mph at 2700-2800RPMs with an 8000# load...
Guess it's time to proceed with the WVO!
That's high constant RPM for a Cummins! Bring that down and it will bring up your mileage - and maybe engine life
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2005
- Location
- Hooterville (24171)
That's high constant RPM for a Cummins! Bring that down and it will bring up your mileage - and maybe engine life
Really? The folks from DTR/TDR act like it's nothing it won't handle since the earlier non-IC folks only had 3spd. autos and have been rolling like that forever.
OTOH, I suppose it could decrease engine life from the usual 500K miles to 300K miles? If so, mines got another 150K to go