Stripped TRE

Discussion in 'Axles / Suspension / Tires' started by YJJPWrangler, Sep 8, 2019.

  1. YJJPWrangler

    YJJPWrangler Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Went to torque my TRE's down and install the cotter pins today. Online said to torque the TRE nut to 50-75lbs. I stripped the damn nut/bolt and my torque wrench never clicked. Bad TRE or what? The TRE's are 1 ton GM stock stuff. If 50-75lbs isn't correct, what is? Get it tight enough and then cotter pin it?
     
  2. skyhighZJ

    skyhighZJ Thanks for your taxes

    Joined:
    May 31, 2012
    Location:
    Fort Polk, La.
    A quick googley said 40-60 torque over to fit the cotter pin. When I did the wonton TRE on my XJ I think it was like 50 plus a bit of a turn to get the pin in.
     
  3. WARRIORWELDING

    WARRIORWELDING Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2008
    Location:
    Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
    If it's all new tapers and hardware the lower end of the spectrum is plenty tight. The taper does the work. The castle nut and cotter pin is just insurance.
    In my lift kit days at a aftermarket shop a long box end with a stiff pull was plenty good. Impact off but never on. If they spun in the tapper downward force was all that was needed....if they still spun I took that as time for closer inspection of said parts and moved from that point.
    And never grease the mating surfaces.
     
    skyhighZJ likes this.
  4. getstucksome

    getstucksome Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte/Mt. Holly area
    If it's just the nut I might have one laying around you can have.
     
  5. Fabrik8

    Fabrik8 Overcomplicator

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Location:
    Huntersville
    I'd take a long look at your torque wrench if you're stripping something as large as a TRE with 50 lb ft.
    Or something has already been weakened, like the nut threads.
     
    justjeepin86 and Jody Treadway like this.
  6. Jason W.

    Jason W. Carolina Trail Blazers

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Location:
    nebo nc
    Replace them, that's your life you would bargain with.
     
    YJJPWrangler and WARRIORWELDING like this.
  7. Chris_Keziah

    Chris_Keziah Joe Dirt

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2010
    Location:
    Winston-Salem
    If the nut stripped it wouldn't be the first one I've seen do that. I had one pull the threads out of the nut on a TJ awhile back. If the threads on the TRE look good then just replace the nut and rock out.
     
    adamk likes this.
  8. YJJPWrangler

    YJJPWrangler Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Nut definitely stripped. I need to pull the the TRE out of the tie rod to check the bolt itself. I would think my torque wrench is fine? It's worked great for years and I've never had a problem with it. Always leave it stored, unloaded.

    I'll probably end up replacing this one but I have another 2 I need to tighten down and don't want to strip those either...
     
  9. rockcity

    rockcity everyday is a chance to get better

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2005
    Location:
    Greenville, NC
    I’d check torque wrench in addition to the TRE and nut. Could be shallow threads due to a manufacturing defect in stock material.

    Torque wrenches do get out of calibration. At work we require calibration paperwork within the last 12 months when tightening bolts on pipe flanges. I’m amazed at how easily the wrenches get out of calibration.
     
  10. Tim C

    Tim C Wizard

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2007
    Location:
    Fayetteville
    I've had several tre nuts strip over the years but never seen the threads on the joint itself fail. I keep a few old tre nuts off various cars in my toolbox for this exact reason.

    I rarely torque them down either. Usually get them good and tight with my long handled 1/2" ratchet. Line up the cotter pin and send it.

    I'll 2nd having the tq wrench checked out. If you see a tool truck out and about flag them down or call the driver to find out where he'll be. Most especially snapon have a tq checker on the truck.
     
    Chris_Keziah likes this.
  11. Fabrik8

    Fabrik8 Overcomplicator

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Location:
    Huntersville
    You can also get it calibrated at a number of places locally (I can give you a list of places I use in the Charlotte area), but you'll spend $35-50 per wrench, which is likely not worth it for a wrench that you haven't had calibrated ever, unless it's a decent quality wrench instead of some Craftsman pile. Also, if it's out of calibration, you'll still spend the calibration cost but will now need to have it repaired (or just buy another one, if it's something like Craftsman). I've had to replace one for work and one for home this year, and I get my work stuff calibrated every year and my home stuff every other year.

    If you're shopping for a new one, I'll give some recommendations for good value. Don't buy anything off a tool truck, they're too expensive.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019 at 8:21 PM
  12. YJJPWrangler

    YJJPWrangler Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Sounds like my torque wrench is bad then. I've had it for years and I've always stored it unloaded. Didn't realize they had to get calibrated. Any recommendations on one that won't break the bank? For the remaining ones, I'll get them good and tight and send it @Tim C
     
  13. Ron

    Ron Dum Spiro Spero Moderator

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2005
    Location:
    Sharon, SC
    I need to replace my 1/2" because the SOB grew legs.
    Ill take your tool nerd recs
     
  14. palmetto zuk

    palmetto zuk Well hung member

    Joined:
    May 22, 2017
    Location:
    Rock Hill (Da Hill City)
    1 bump of the impact i believe is the proper spec.
     
  15. Fabrik8

    Fabrik8 Overcomplicator

    Joined:
    May 27, 2015
    Location:
    Huntersville
    Because you asked, if you're looking for a standard clicker-type unit:

    CDI Torque is one of my recs; they're owned by the Snap-On family of brands and they manufacture the Snap-On branded clicker-type wrenches, and I think some of the split beam stuff too.. It's a lot cheaper to buy the CDI Torque branded units though (maybe $170 for a 1/2 drive 30-150ft lbs). USA manufactured. I like the comfort handle ones, because I'm just not a fan of the knurled cylinder grips.

    One of the other recs is Norbar, who is one of the biggest manufacturers in Europe. The NorTorque models and Professional Adjustable Industrial (mushroom head) models are both really good for the money and fairly similar to the CDI in price, with the NorTorque being a little less expensive than the Professional Industrial.. Norbar is currently my favorite. UK manufactured. Norbar is one of the biggest suppliers of torque calibration equipment to calibration companies.

    NorTorque
    Professional Adjustable 'Mushroom' Head 'Industrial' Ratchet

    Mountz Torque makes really good stuff too, but I tend to only use them for specialty stuff as I lean toward CDI and Norbar for normal stuff. Mountz is one of the other big suppliers of torque calibration equipment.


    Check out Flexible Assembly and Pro Torque Tools for good prices. It's pretty awesome how cheap you can get a high quality torque wrench online.
     

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