Spider gears

RubiconBear

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 31, 2012
Well, last night I found out the noise in my rear D44 is the 2 small spider gears missing some little chunks. The larger ones are fine. Do I need to replace all 4 of can I just do the like ones? I'm assuming all 4. Any brand in particular, or does it matter. I don't want something so cheap they break again in a few thousand miles.

Also, every site I've looked at shows a cross pin bolt or roll pin for the D44 with trac lok. It looks like mine had a roll pin, but not 100% sure. Here's a pic, I'll try and get another if y'all need it.

If it's a roll pin, I should be able to punch it out without removing the carrier, right? If it's a bolt, it's obviously broken. Are the Yukon or Nitro Gear removal kits good, or is there a better way I couldn't find?

Lastly, when I rotate one wheel, the other spins the same direction, as it should with the LS. It didn't make any weird sounds, other than the spider gears. Do I need to worry about getting new clutch packs, too? Thanks in advance.
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I'd bring it to an axle guy. Those limited slip units require special tools to change the spider gears. (Because the side gears put pressure on the clutch pack) all four gears need to be changed as a set.
 
Looks like a TJ D44. It'll have a roll pin as opposed to a bolt holding the center pin in place
Before you waste your $$$ on a Track Lok rebuild kit, put that money towards a Truetrac LSD or a locker.
You can swap out the spiders and side gears yourself using one of the shafts to rotate the side gears. You'll also need to fashion a tool to preload the opposing side gear in order to get the clearance needed.
 
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Yep, TJ44. Yeah I've read that the Trac lok is just so-so, but I don't have a lot of $$ to play with. I can't seem to find just the gears without the clutches/kit though. Probably not looking it up right. Since it's not my DD, what's your thoughts on Powertrax No-Slip back there? You know how it gets here in the mountains @Jody Treadway it should be driven some in the winter.

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For the $$$ you'll spend on a Powertrax and then be left with a weak carrier, I'd spend just a few bucks more on a Truetrac.
You'll be happier and money ahead IMO
 
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But then I'd need to set up the gear pattern again and press bearings on/off, then backlash, right? Do you have a source for just the spider gears @Jody Treadway? If I could just fix that for now and save up for something better down the road I'd rather. Well not really, I would rather put something good in there, lol, but money is something I don't see a lot of. Goes to the bills to fast.

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I see the spider gear set for D35s, but I doubt I'd be lucky enough for them to work, right?

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RubiconBear said:
But then I'd need to set up the gear pattern again and press bearings on/off, then backlash, right? Do you have a source for just the spider gears @Jody Treadway? If I could just fix that for now and save up for something better down the road I'd rather. Well not really, I would rather put something good in there, lol, but money is something I don't see a lot of. Goes to the bills to fast.

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No need to reset up anything. Measure backlash prior to disassembly and matchnit up when you're done.
Gimme a week or so and I'll come across some for ya.
Like when someone swaps out a failed Tracklok for a Truetrac :)
 
Jody Treadway said:
No need to reset up anything. Measure backlash prior to disassembly and matchnit up when you're done.
Gimme a week or so and I'll come across some for ya.
Like when someone swaps out a failed Tracklok for a Truetrac :)
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So I wouldn't have to do ring/pinion pattern going with a full case swap like the true trac or, for instance a full Detroit or even...spool [emoji87]. (Only blurted that out because spools are cheap, but y'all are probably laughing at me for even mentioning it, lol. Though I will only be putting about 3-5K miles a year on the Jeep.)
Heck, looking at ECGS I could get a pre-assembled trac lok for $400 (rebuild kit is $340). The True Trac for $485 and full Detroit for $639. Spool is on sale for $145 right now. I just want to get it back on the road asap. Luckily my ZJ hasn't sold, so I can drive that for now, but I'm tired of that thing cutting off on me.

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You are correct. You aren't changing pinion depth, only backlash (potentially).
Generally speaking, machining tolerances are so close these days you'll be able to swap carriers without having to change any shims. Backlash has an impact on gear mesh pattern but not nearly as much as pinion depth.
But check backlash first and simply get back to the same reading upon completion.
This is assuming it was in spec before, of course.
Or if you need someone to swap it out, lemme know. Peace of mind is worth the free t shirt. :D
 
Now I just need a press for the bearings, lol. And I need to figure out if I want to be cheap by getting a spool and not having an actual "differential" for a while or get the true trac. I'm not going to be doing a ton of wheeling, but when I do I want good traction. I know true tracs should be good snow-wise though. And yes, if I could do selectable I could, but definitely out of my price range.
 
RubiconBear said:
Now I just need a press for the bearings, lol.
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Guess I'm just Ina good mood today. You don't NEED a press to install the carrier bearings. Take an old one, cut the cage and rollers off and guess what you're left with? A very suitable tool for tapping the new bearings on with.
That's what I do with random applications I rarely see. Works like a champ.
 
You da man. I didn't even think about that. Though I would eventually like to get a press.
Now, if I'm cheap and go for a spool, how dumb am I? (I think I know the answer, but the price is appealing, and I guess I need the heckling, lol)
 
Jody Treadway said:
For the $$$ you'll spend on a Powertrain and then be left with a weak carrier, I'd spend just a few bucks more on a Truetrac.
You'll be happier and money ahead IMO
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I can attest that the truetrac is doing awesome for me. I have yet to test it in Harlan rocks (etc), but it has seen offroad and in 2lo it went every a locker in 2lo went. So its promising for sure. It also doesnt compare on any level like clutch lsd. Feels much more like a detroit (to me). But jody is very knowledgeable about this stuff and his recommendations are Gold.
 
I've done a Detroit in a D30 and D35. Used the same shims and while the backlash was not the same it was within spec.
 
Ok, I think I will move away from the Track Lok. Now, True Trac ($$$) or Spool ($)? It will be driven 3-5K miles a year. Some in the winter, but not too much. 99 tj 3-3.5" unknown lift 33-12.50 MTs. Thoughts? I know the spool is a little crazy, but dang it's cheap. I know selectable tends to be the best choice, but too much $$$.
 
Spool is 100% guaranteed to provide max traction at all times.
Whether or not that's a good thing is dependent on day to day use.
Wheeling rig? Spool
Mixed driving? Truetrac IMO wins that battle.

Another option is search out a used OEM LSD and rock out for free to cheap
 
Jody Treadway said:
Spool is 100% guaranteed to provide max traction at all times.
Whether or not that's a good thing is dependent on day to day use.
Wheeling rig? Spool
Mixed driving? Truetrac IMO wins that battle.

Another option is search out a used OEM LSD and rock out for free to cheap
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I believe I could live with the spool. It is more of a DD, but we have my wife's car for long drives. I'll hit up Craigslist though and check there, just in case. I just don't have lot of time to wait. The wife is mad that we're paying insurance on it and a loan payment for it and can't drive it. [emoji27]
 
RubiconBear said:
I believe I could live with the spool. It is more of a DD, but we have my wife's car for long drives. I'll hit up Craigslist though and check there, just in case. I just don't have lot of time to wait. The wife is mad that we're paying insurance on it and a loan payment for it and can't drive it. [emoji27]
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I don't think you want to DD it with a spool, especially in the snow. One or both wheels will always break traction when turning (there is no way to prevent that, as you're locking two wheels together at the same speed and asking them each to turn on different radius), which can make for some fun driving.
 
Fabrik8 said:
I don't think you want to DD it with a spool, especially in the snow. One or both wheels will always break traction when turning (there is no way to prevent that, as you're locking two wheels together at the same speed and asking them each to turn on different radius), which can make for some fun driving.
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What you don't like coming into all turns side ways? :driver::eek:
 
It's not a daily, as far as driving to work, but it does get driven almost daily, like to the gym and store. It wouldn't get taken out a lot in snow/ice. It would do day trips with the family. I'm going to try and wheel more with this rig than I did with my ZJ. I think I only wheeled it once in the 6 years I owned it, on hurricane creek. That was before I put bfg at ko2s on it and the np231 swap, lol. It does do very well in the snow, but it's open/open. [emoji87] I would keep it for that reason, but the wife wants rid of it and it needs more work than I want to put into it.
 
You will burn through tires with the spool and get looks constantly when turning in gas stations (Tires will bark a lot on dry concrete).
 
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