OBA question

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
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Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
I have a York compressor on MY Heep. Due to the many trail fixes I am involved in, it is used and needed a good bit, most times for extended times. I bring high usage tools, such a drill, grinders, and brushes with me. It works great with th amount of air tanks I have with one exception. I added a idle control cable to my Jeep to get the compressor spinning a little faster to keep the PSI and volume up. Not every time I use it, but almost every time I do, it blows a hose. currently I am using the Orange PVC type, it can stand the PSI, but not the heat that is created in the compressor. I was thinking Hydraulic hose from Northern, all the way back to my tanks. Just curious as th what your experiences have been, and your results.
Thanks
 
I had the same problem. The oil that the york puts out eats at the rubber then the heat finishes it off. I switched to a hydro line. I bought it from the MSC company. Weatherhead Rhynohide 3/8" coll-o-crimp (H54506) 3000 psi wp. Never had anymore trouble. It is a rubber, then steel, the abrasion resistance hose. It is a little more expensive than the TC hose but you buy it by the foot. KC
 
looks like good stuff! Thanks. I don't think the oil is an issue, but the heat defiantly is. I had also thought about using some copper tubing to take it back there. What I do know what I am using is crap and has to change.
I am hoping in September when the Club goes to URE that I can take down my Heep, and with a block I come up with to run three OBA systems at once to supply enough air to run a sand blaster. Hoping to clean the paint off the rocks at Kodak.
 
Chip I machined a manifold with fins that is hard lined from the compressor. It helps dissapate heat and keeps it away from the rubber line.
 
good idea with the fined manifold !!

My new OBA is not set up yet but I previously used a 18" good year air gun whip, directly off the pump and into an aluminum distribution block.. Its got machined crimped on ends and seems HD.. plus its only $5 northern... I have to thread it on them bolt the manifold to the pump but its easy enough...

I also had considered a small copper coil if needed..
 
My setup is very basic and not a york, so this might not apply. I am running the stock compressor that came on my 85 Bronco. When I first set it up, I disconnected the compressor outlet hose from whatever it was connected to. It is about three feet long. The ID of the metal fitting on the end of the outlet hose was perfect to just run the tap in for a standard automotive air hose like you would have in your garage. So I threaded the hose in, and ran it to the tank where it connected to a barbed fitting with a hose clamp. I have never had a problem with it.

DK
 
That is why most factory (AC) setups have a length of aluminum line between the pump and the hose. Helps disapate the heat.
The place where I have OBA hoses made up does a lot of AC line work and pretty much insists on a section of metal. I have learned to listen the the voice of experience.
A section of aluminum or copper between the pump and the hose will make a big difference. The finned manifold idea sounds trick too.
 
Also why when I did mine, (non york, stock GM) instead of taking the hose connector block off the back of the compressor I went down the rubber line ~10" an cut in an adapter fitting. So now it goes from compressor through factory aluminum hard line (~6") then another few inches of high pressure hose, then to a large (3/4"?)barb ->reducingbushing->barb->3/8hose.

This keeps all the factory heat sink properties in tact, and required only 2 ~$1.00 fittings...

Just thought
 
I took about 42 inches of copper tubing and coiled it to dissipate the heat before it gets to the hose. I also have a safety valve that opens at 125 psi (or maybe it is 135, I don't remember). If you have at least 3 ft. of copper tubing before the hose, you should be fine.
 
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