High steer arm/bolt shear

XJsavage

CounterCulture
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Location
Lyle's Ford SC
I'm about to redo my high steer arms and reattatch the drag link and tie rod to them. I'm going from one high steer arm on the passenger side where only my drag link attatched, to high steer arms on both sides where drag link AND tie rod will attatch to the arms.
Old setup utilized the stock 60 knuckles for tie rod placement.
The arms will be 1"+ thick steel and linkages are 7/8 heims with spacers down to a 5/8 bolt.
I got to wondering which would be stronger, if I was to drill and tap the high steer arms to accept a 5/8 bolt threaded into it or just to drill each hole 5/8 and run a thru-bolt like everyone else?
How would the arms being tapped for 5/8 hold up compared to a thru bolt design?
 
By the way, this is a hydro assist setup.
 
I know this. When you snap the bolt off on the trail Id much rather have a thru bolt then have to worry about extracting a broken grade 8 bolt from a threaded arm.
 
^ good point. I was thinking in the neighborhood of less slop overtime, but the suckiness of that downside overweighs the benifit of the other.
 
Why not use a 3/4 bolt?
 
Also drill the holes in the correct place as to not lose any steering angle.

Your distance from kingpin centerline to drag link hole needs to remain the same as now, or moved to accommodate the steering angle you desire.

Fwiw. I just converted all my steering to heims, and used 3/4 fine thread grade 8 bolts, and with double nuts, lock tite and lock washers.

I just drilled out the gm tre taper to 3/4.

I wanted a thru bolt so if something comes apart on the trail, or anything breaks, easier fix. Can throw 5/8 bolt or even a trailer hitch pin and a bunch of washers to get off the trail vs dealing with a threaded hole.

The other thought, if you tap mild
Steel hi steer arms, there is nothing hardened in the threads. Using a grade 8 hardened nut, IMO would give you longer lasting stronger threads, than ones hand cut into mild steel.

Although, if tapping it yourself, you could tighten up the class thread and raise the interference some, to keep the bolt from vibrating loose.
 
i don't have any business replying in threads about this stuff except do the thru bolt just cause last weekend i saw a guy with a buggy brake the same bolts you're talking about and yeah it sucked to have the studs broke off in the hole on the trail...lucky he still had 2 holding on enough to get back to camp but i see what others mean by if they were thru bolts, he could've replaced them with more spare thru bolts and kept wheeling instead of his trip being cut short. ok i leave now!
 
Why heims for the tie-rod? I just got rid of the only heim in my steering and went back to a drag link end. I hated the idea of the heims to begin with. T-link it and do a drag link end on the tie-rod. Depending on how much flex your front end has it is probably too much for a DLE at the pitman so maybe a heim there but otherwise I don't see why you need them. I am assuming that your hydro assist ram is on the axle tugging on the tie-rod.
 
@Mac5005 , all angles will remain the same. I have a formula of perfection going now that I will not change.

@OnlyOneDR , To answer a question with a question?? TREs suck. I hate them. And they don't take an impact worth a damn.
 
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This is what I'm preventing from happening again. Yes, these are the offset TREs. Terrible purchase I'll never make again and I've had bad luck with other styles as well. Two trail rides and they're shot. The new tie rod will be same distance from kp center but located up to the arms with heims this time.
 
I guess I would hate heims too. How dare they be extremely strong, have tighter tolerances, give you more angle, and last much longer!

The nerve of those heims...why, I never!
 
You guys are funny. It's why I like this place.

Once you get the tie-rod out of the impact zone I don't see why you need the hassle of heims. The rod rocks back and forth only slightly so you do not need much for angular misalignment. Seems like the issue may be less about the tie-rod ends and more about placement (as in, I wonder how heims would have fared on the tie rod on your rig in the same mounting position).

The idea of the heim I like. How most people use them, I don't. I see them in single-shear on every other application other than suspension links when I browse around the internet. No thanks. I also do not like that they are not greasable, everywhere you need to use misalignment washers to use them which creates opportunity for dirt and grit to get in the race, the shanks are really short so you do not get much adjustment room on the link, and the mounting method is not self locating (no tapered bolt).

Not saying they are bad, just not for me right now. Then again, I only run 12" shocks up front so I do not have the flex and have portals so my steering is out the weeds even running the tie-rods on the knuckles.
 
I'll tell ya a funny story about heims and busting tie rods. About 5 years ago, I was on a club wheeling trip to Bumps Cove TN and about an hour before the rest of my group arriving into Erwin. Long interstate drive over, I pulled into a corner gas station off of exit 36 to get a drink and some ice. I parked in front of a knee high glob of concrete in the middle of the parking lot which I guess was an old pump foundation at one time. Done in the gas station, I get back in the jeep, get a call from trail boss and in a hurry, put the jeep in drive and smacked the ever living shit out of that concrete which was level with my 7/8 heim joint-clad .25 wall DOM tie rod and broke it dead in half with enough force to ram my face into the steering wheel. I unbolted it, meandered through town, found a welding shop, repaired it, ran it, and drove on those same 7/8 heims for another two years after that. A quality heim is bulletproof.
 
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What I should be running in reality is the Artec arms. Double shear tie rod, full knuckle tie-in, etc, like this cat I wheel with. But of course I can't afford nice things. :lol:
 
You guys are funny. It's why I like this place.

Once you get the tie-rod out of the impact zone I don't see why you need the hassle of heims. The rod rocks back and forth only slightly so you do not need much for angular misalignment. Seems like the issue may be less about the tie-rod ends and more about placement (as in, I wonder how heims would have fared on the tie rod on your rig in the same mounting position).

The idea of the heim I like. How most people use them, I don't. I see them in single-shear on every other application other than suspension links when I browse around the internet. No thanks. I also do not like that they are not greasable, everywhere you need to use misalignment washers to use them which creates opportunity for dirt and grit to get in the race, the shanks are really short so you do not get much adjustment room on the link, and the mounting method is not self locating (no tapered bolt).

Not saying they are bad, just not for me right now. Then again, I only run 12" shocks up front so I do not have the flex and have portals so my steering is out the weeds even running the tie-rods on the knuckles.


When swapping to heims on my steering, this is what I considered.

The angle of misalignment is practically the same on a 3/4 ton GM TRE ( the ones everyone calls 1-ton, has 7/8-18 shank) as it is on a commercially available heim with 3/4 bolt with misalignment spacers.

Both are ~35 degrees total misalignment.

Yes heims can't be greased.

The boots never stay on TREs longer than a few months and the grease attracts and holds dirt. Tolerance on heims keeps a lot of big particles out, and can easily lube the heim with cheap spray lubricant like wd-40 if desired.

I mounted both ends of my drag link heim in double shear. So even if the heim comes apart, some type of mechanical linkage still exists.

My tie rod is mounted in single shear, but with large safety misalignment washers. Even if the heim comes apart, the shank will remain attached to the steering arm. This is why I purchased the steering heim set from Barnes, just to get the additional safety washers.

As far as the tie rod rolling, I took polyurethane shock bushing and cut them in half, then compressed them on either side of the heim, between te safety misalignment and the heim body, to limit the misalignment and I keep it from flopping. Works great, and cheap & easy to keep spares.

Tre's are ok, they've been on my 60 steering since 2008.

My fear is that if one is to come apart, the shank and body of the end can come off the tapered pin, with no extra safety.

I like the added insurance of running heims for safety alone.

Just my .02.
 
A few pics of my current setup.

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I'm going to steal your shock bushing trick. I need to keep my tie rod from rolling with the hydro assist. Thanks for the idea. Here is a picture of my 60 steering. I'm using Solid Knuckle with Artec Arms. I went with this setup because I like to drive my Jeep when I can and I felt safer knowing I had the keyed knuckle instead of all the steering force riding on the high steer studs. It also allowed me to get my drag link and track bar lined up for no bump steer.
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@ABadJeeper Your steering angles look dead on! Nice ride! And yeah I'm stealing mac's idea too. :D
 
@ABadJeeper Your steering angles look dead on! Nice ride! And yeah I'm stealing mac's idea too. :D

Thanks it's been a fun build. Ideally I'd have a longer track bar but without cutting the frame in half it wasn't happening.

I started with rubber ones, but they were too soft.

I was going to draw something up and machine them out of delrin but your solution is just to simple not to use. That's why I like this forum.
 
I think a zerk fitting would be kinda pointless without rubber boots to hold the grease. I usually use a clear lithium grease in a spray can on mine.
 
It will be stronger if you drill a thru hole. The thread necks down right at the point where there is the most stress on the bolt. For a 5/8" bolt (0.625" diameter), the minimum thread diameter is around 17/32" (0.532") which is a 15% reduction in diameter from the bolt shank to the minor diameter of the thread. That is a direct correlation to how much shear stress it can handle, but the bending stress is a function of the 3rd power, which means that 15% larger translates into about 40-50% stronger...
And that ignores any affects of stress concentrations and cyclic loading.
 
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