Help Me Pick a trailer

Which Trailer Should I Do?

  • Option A

    Votes: 34 94.4%

  • Option B

    Votes: 2 5.6%
  • Total voters
    36
  • Poll closed .
ok well i pulled a ford 2000 diesel tractor on a homemade trailerhouse trailer with only 3 tires and a bent frame behind a v6 yota without much trouble, i will say the 4wd was used alot because the front tires kept slidin. i also pulled a 32 foot camper without the WD hitch.... cant mess with a yota. with that same trailer and tractor i ripped the bumper in half on my 85 chevy on 35's. 4lo, lockers, and a trailer backed off in a 3 foot ditch dont go well...... id go with the wood deck though because it is 1 cooler, and 2 alot easier to repair a cracked frame or sumthin later on....
 
gmc2006 said:
ok well i pulled a ford 2000 diesel tractor on a homemade trailerhouse trailer with only 3 tires and a bent frame behind a v6 yota without much trouble, i will say the 4wd was used alot because the front tires kept slidin. i also pulled a 32 foot camper without the WD hitch.... cant mess with a yota. with that same trailer and tractor i ripped the bumper in half on my 85 chevy on 35's. 4lo, lockers, and a trailer backed off in a 3 foot ditch dont go well...... id go with the wood deck though because it is 1 cooler, and 2 alot easier to repair a cracked frame or sumthin later on....
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I don't know about y'all, but I want to take trailer advice from this guy!!!:flipoff2:
 
vanguard said:
Even if it was more expensive I'd go with this guy. Chains are loud on steel and wood doesn't get burning hot as it sits in the sun all day waiting for you to return. Use the money you saved to get brakes on both axles.
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Unless they changed it Kaufman sells trailer with brakes on both axles as standard equipment.
 
that pic of trailer looks just like mine. looks like the ramps slide under the sides just past the wheels, just like mine, good trailer!
 
vanguard said:
Even if it was more expensive I'd go with this guy. Chains are loud on steel and wood doesn't get burning hot as it sits in the sun all day waiting for you to return. Use the money you saved to get brakes on both axles.
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What he said. Wood decks>steel decks. Less weight, less noise, less price, less heat, less slick, can screw into it if needed and can/will still last 20 years. I would also look into a 16' non-dovetail for your use (xterra with big tires). Again, less weight, less dragging on shit, easier to park/turn/pull and still plenty of room to move the rig around and get your tongue weight right.

Just saying. Why make those your only choices.
 
A few of my friends recently walked out of that new golden gait place because of the high prices, they wouldn't come off any, I guess they are tyring to pay for that new building.

They bought the same style/constructed trailers for less money from Kaufman and Hudson.
 
Deff. Full deck

I would go with the full deck but wood not steel. I say this for a few reasons on top of the others already mentioned.

Wood plank can be replaced one at a time if needed down the road and the steel can't.

Wood can be treated with special treatment or just sprayed with Hyd oil and let it soak in and you wont have a problem with it rotting anytime soon.
 
Voted A because you will use it for other things than just hauling your rig. I like steel deck because you can drag stuff on it easy without digging into the wood. One big problem I see with all of them is that you can't put a big rig on any of them without building your own drive over fenders and then having tires hanging over the sides.
 
I've got option A with the spare tire and removable fenders. No regrets. Definitely recommend it.
 
uncc civilengineer said:
not unless you get atleast an 8k trailer....
EDIT> atleast that's what the sales guy told me...
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That makes since then.

d420fazer said:
that pic of trailer looks just like mine. looks like the ramps slide under the sides just past the wheels, just like mine, good trailer!
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My ramps slide in at the back of the trailer, makes it easy to put them back without haveing to move them very far.
 
well i went with option C, The trailer that I sold about month ago, I am buying it back lol... the person that bought mine just sold his rig... crazy stuff I tell you lol
 
Go with A

I got a Kaufman diamond car hauler, 22'. I have had it for 2.5 years, dragged it on several longer trips 500-600 miles, plus plenty closer (Uwharrie, etc.) I plan to haul it to CO and UT summer after next with the 715 and camper.

2@6k axles, titled at 9990#'s. Brakes both axles. Get the removable fenders, they have to come off to load my 715, only 2 bolts per fender and lift right off. Also the rub rails are well worth what they charge ($100 IIRC), gives you more tie-down options for oddball stuff. Get at least one spare tire. (Twice now, I would have killed for a second spare.) I also got the adjustable coupler....my goal in life is to simply have all my trailer couplers, and all my truck trailer hitches, at the same height. :)

I got the steel deck. Really hasn't been a problem. Only thing I have to do differently is be more careful when loading up, as I usually load late at night, and gotta be quiet with the chains. A little care, and the neighbors have yet to complain.

I like the slide-in ramps. Of the trailers I used to borrow before I bought, one had tilt-up ramps, and with my 715 loaded, the ramps didn't have room to tilt up w/o hitting the bumper. The other trailer, ramps didn't attach or have a storage space, so they had to go in the back of the pickup. Forgot them once....got a couple of hundred miles from home on a car recovery....no ramps....ever try to find and borrow a set of trailer ramps at 10pm, 4 hours from home??? :) You can't. :( Only downside about the slide-in ramps is they are noisy on a rough road, like the washboard gravel going to the group camp at UNF. I haven't tried it yet, but I think just reaching up underneath and putting a tarp bungee on each one will dampen that.

Anyway, if your trail rig is anything more than a stocker, you won't need ramps to load if it's a dovetail. Just climb on. :) Seriously, the only thing I have used the ramps for in the past year is the lawn mower.

Don't get short like 16' if you fabricate, etc...most stock steel comes at 20' or 21'. Plus gives you room to be like yager and put on a camper. You know you want to do it.

edit: Mine weighs right at 2900#. Yes, you pay a price for the few extra feet in length, the rub rails, the steel deck, etc.
 
A

I bought the 18' 8k kaufman last december and I love it. It will haul a crew cab long bed truck with all four tires on the deck, not on the dovetail. Spend the money and get the rub rails. It's worth the difference to get the 4k axles. It upgrades you to 6 on 5.5 wheels and brakes on both axles. Also call them and see if they have anything people have put deposits down on and not picked up. After I had done all the paperwork on mine, I saw a 10k trailer in the yard for the same price because someone had already paid a deposit on it and had some custom work done to it. The only thing about mine I didn't like was the spare tire carrier on the side and the front corners are sharp because it's made out of channel. Good way to turn your pants into shorts. I cut the front corners at 45s and cut the spare tire carrier off. I'd rather keep my spare inside and throw it in the truck when I pull the trailer so it's not out in the sun all day every day. The only other thing Ive done is add more tie down rings to it. I also want to put some spools in the rub rails so I have a better place to hook chains if I use them.
 
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