gooseneck install

1stgenxxx

1stgenxxx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Location
Hudson
I bought one of the bolt on top of bed gooseneck hitches from a guy at work for 40 bucks:huggy:. It was only used 3 or 4 times before the truck he had it in broke down. He was suposed to pull it out of the tuck for my when I paid him for it 3 weeks ago. This morning I got tired of waiting on his lazy ass and took the grinder with me and cut it out myself. My Dodge had the same style hitch in it at one point but it was removed by the PO. I was just going to cut the old bolts off and bolt it down like they had it but idk. They only drilled through the top side of the c channel. Would that be strong enough to pull a 29' tralier with one or maybe 2 trucks on it? I don't think it would be.:shaking:. How do yaul have your goose necks mounted? I was thinking of removing the bed,boxing the frame, welding the hitch on,bolting all the way to the bottom side, and adding an additional crossmember in the center of the frame under the gooseneck plate. Then just cutting a hole big enough to get to the ball and safety chain hook.
 
I went through this debate before mounting mine. And I saw them bolted to the top on many old farm trucks with no issues while searching for answers. Got one of those too on a project truck but never hauled with the setup myself. And I totally REFUSED to pay an outragious amount for any weak aftermarket crap. So my final solution was to mount about a 12" long piece of 4"X4"X 3/8 channel along the top outsides of the frame rail with (4) 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each through the side of the frame. Then welded a thick (3/4") piece of steel to the angles with a hole in the center for the ball. Then cut a hole in the bed for the 1" extended ball. I had to raise bed 3/4" to lay on the steel.
There's no difference in sheer between my setup and just bolted to the top except for room for more bolts without having a 2' long piece of channel. The shear factor is so great though for (8) bolts, anything I haul will never be an issue. More labor involved and the ball isn't removable unless I unbolt it but the total cost was around $40... It's removable for future use. Gives my bed alot of extra support. And it's been a trouble free setup for 10 years now.
 
First of all what parts of the hitch do you have? If you have everything this is what i would do
make some plates to mount to the sides of the frame rails using 1/4'' plate drill the holes so the bolts can go through the frame then weld the top part of the hitch to the frame plates.
I have a 1999 Dodge 3500 with a B&W gooseneck hitch and that is how my hitch is built

here is an illustration of how a gooseneck is layed out
ai44.tinypic.com_30u7itk.jpg
 
Another pointer I heard and used was to mount the ball as far forward from the axle as possible while the tailgate still folds down for fast hookup. It was based on the theory of pushing a stick through the air. You push at an angle and get the full grunt. You push with the stick straight up and you get substantial force pushed back. It was debateable but in my mind I saw it an important factor with full belief. Mine's 8 inches in front of the axle with 2" between tailgate and trailer so I can hook and roll around fast. LOVE IT!!!
 
yes definetly needs to be frame mounted, and if you dont think you can get it perfectly mounted I would have someone professional do it, because if it breaks with your loaded trailer on it your going to be up :poop: creek
 
I know that is has to be frame mounted.......In the origional post I described how I planned to mount it.
 
I guess yours is just a flat plate with a ball in the middle. In that case I would build a sub-frame out of 2x2x1/4. Weld the subframe to the frame. Then bolt the plate to those. On the B&W the cross rails were held on with two 1/2 grade 8's on each side. This is 8 bolts all together to hold on the rails. If you are building it all, just weld the 2x2 to the top of the frame. Then use some 1/4 to strap down and get more weld surface. Finally bolt down the top plate. Some 2x3 or 2x4 would be better if you could notch it for the frame. Add some triangulation for braking strength and run it.
 
This is the hitch that I got.



ai36.photobucket.com_albums_e39_1stgenxxx_gooseneckhitch.jpg
 
I don't know if your truck is just a tow rig or what, but I got one of those frame mounted hitches like pictured in the above post with the removable ball. I like it because I can still haul plywood, etc., in the bed without having the ball right in the middle of the bed. The ball should be from over the rear axle to a few inches forward.

I installed the hitch myself and it was very straightforward. I towed 22,300 pounds on a 32' gooseneck from VA to TX to NC with no problems.
 
Yea that is what I thought. A couple of pieces of heavy wall 2x2 box or angle fishplated to the frame and you should be good. That is all the B&W ones are except they bolt on instead of weld since they are a consumer product.
 
This is a bolt on also...just just have to make you own holes....lol
 
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