Dana 300 Flip (Not run of the mill version)

Discussion in 'General Tech' started by jeepinmatt, Dec 5, 2005.

  1. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Finally finished the Dana 300 in my TJ (yeah, i know, cliche), but I went about it a little different than most folks. I sealed off the front, made new shifter rods and brought them out the back of the case, and connected it all via linkage to the levers, and into the cab. I still haven't taken pictures of the finished product mounted under the jeep, but pics of the process can be found here:
    http://community.webshots.com/album/515077281smZxjI

    Step one was making supports for the shift rods in the back of the case, drilling the case, and welding the supports on. Then I made the new shift rods up with spherical rod ends for a little bit of adjustability. I did a bunch of math to calculate the detent positions, and it still didn't work right, so I just used the old rods as a template, and lined it up in the mill. The seals that went into the rear supports are the same used in the front, so I don't have to remember any special part numbers. I capped off the front holes and removed the old lever mount on the front.

    Once the internal part was finished, I made a lever pivot on the rear, setup parallel to the t-case. Using 1/2" stock and radiator drop brackets from my body lift, I fabricated some linkage out the back. The two linkages pivot on the same axis, and provide support for each other for strength. When I attempted to fabricate the shifters, it was impossible to make them go through the factory t-case shifter location in the console (I had already trimmed on the body a little) because they moved in a curved pattern relative to the body. I had to rotate the pivot to a lever position to horizontal, upon which the movement was linear, and I was able to make it work. By putting the pivot horizontal, I had to make the front shift linkage a little longer (see last few pictures). Other than fighting for probably 15hrs with the curved shift pattern, this was not too bad of a project.
    Cost was as follows:
    D300-100
    HD output-175
    3ft 5/8" tool rod-7
    9 3/8-24 heims-17 (ebay)
    front CV yoke- from NP231
    Linkage and support steel-laying around shop
    Levers-99 (mostly scrapped thanks to curve shift)
    1/2" tool rod-6
    Miscellaneous hardware-15
    Miscellaneous seals-20
    Oil-3
    Driveshaft shorten/lengthen/repair-200

    Total Parts 642
    Sold NP231 -325
    Total cost =$317

    It is alot cheaper to get driveshafts simply shortened or lengthened, but I needed a few new u-joints and new splines front and rear, so mine were more. It would be under $100 normally. The heavy duty rear output isn't necessary either,but I needed a new yoke, seal and bearings for the existing one, which was over half the cost of the HD unit, so I decided to upgrade.
    Excluding those two things, the final cost would be about $20.

    Hope this is helpful to somebody. If there are any other questions ask me on here or at mbkelly0@gmail.com

    -Matt
     
  2. junkman

    junkman Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    roxboro
    One question . Why did you do all that to the shifter?
     
  3. zubz

    zubz Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Definitely a different way of going about it Matt.

    I would expect that as soon as those seals on the shift rail start to wear a bit that you are gonna have some pretty sweet drainage out the rear of the case. Just something to think about.

    Andy
     
  4. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    ^^The case originally shifts out the front, but when rotated to drivers side drop, this puts everything under the front output. That roughly leaves your options as follows: Don't flip it, buy one of the high dollar kits and be forced to lower your skidplate an inch or two, or use cable shifters. I decided I wanted a direct linkage without losing ground clearance or spending a ton of money.

    ^Yeah, that is something Im keeping an eye on. The seals don't leak any right now. The 5/8" diameter rod is 2 thousandths bigger than the stock shifter rod, so it does fit on those seals a little tighter which should help. Also, since I never have time to go wheeling, it doesn't get shifted much, which will also help:(
     
  5. upnover

    upnover Grumpy, decrepit Old Man Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2005
    Location:
    Morganton NC
    Sounds like a neat idea. I am curious about the long term though. Keep us posted. Better yet, do another one on a rig that see's some action.
     
  6. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    I was partially just kidding. Mine does see a lot of action when Im not working on it. It just seems this year has been work on it year.
     
  7. Rich

    Rich Asshole at large

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Central PA
    Very good tech!

    Mr. Nuts is using the Atlas cable shifters in his buggy and it seems to work pretty well (when he's not tearing the guts out of the cases :flipoff2: ) and for those that don't want to (or don't have access to some of the tools) spend tons of time on the fabbing, it can help streamline the process..
     
  8. braxton357

    braxton357 Robot

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2005
    Location:
    Morganton
    Looks like shit!
     
  9. StudNuts

    StudNuts Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Wendell
    Thats deffinitly a different approach. Its gonna suck when it breaks. Why go thru all that work and not take use of the twin sticks?

    Heres mine with the atlas shitters
    [​IMG]
     
  10. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    It is twin stick. What do you think is gonna break?
     
  11. StudNuts

    StudNuts Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Wendell
  12. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    I think the pictures are a little decieving. I added a few pictures of the final setup, though they are not very good (taken tonight in the rain). In this picture: http://community.webshots.com/photo/515077281/515354062ifQStl you can see the square support, the 7/8" OD tube which rotates and is connect to the rear output linkage, and the 5/8" OD polished rod which controls the front output. I actually changed the configuration slightly, but essentially the polished rod rotates within the tube, which rotates within the square support.
     
  13. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    N. Raleigh, NC
    great workmanship and its obvious your a machinest by the overkill on the parts :) I wouldnt worry about breaking those parts.

    I'd put a zerk on those tubes and possibly grind a small spiral on it to allow grease to work in. To be tight enough to not be sloppy means they will also be likly to rust after the first dip.

    How will it work coming out that far back? No console ?

    oh ya cut a drain or cap that box tube or it will fill with crud..
     
  14. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    I milled a few slots in the shift rails so that oil would stay in the tubes.

    The central pivot on the linkage also has slots milled in it, and o-rings on either end. I put as much grease as possible on it before install. All of my really good work I didn't take pictures of because I was too pleased with it and had good momentum going.

    As far as the shifters, I had to trim just a tad on the body, but I was able to get it to come through the slot for the stock t-case shift in the stock console. You can see that here: http://community.webshots.com/photo/518015990/518015990KXoecu
    The levers travel every last thousandth of an inch in that slot (they touch at either end of the travel), but its just enough.

    It will hopefully all be coming off soon for the 4:1 gears that I can't afford yet, upon which I put the finishing touches on things.


    Anybody know where I can get small accordion style rubber boots that are 3/8" on one end, 1 1/4" on the other, and can handle an inch or so of travel? Im trying to figure out a way to cover the end of the shift rails where they go into and out of the case.
     
  15. Rich

    Rich Asshole at large

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Central PA
    Suggestion - open the holes up more. You can't have allowed for driveline motion, not only rotational, but a little forward and back, too...
     
  16. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Just an update on a few things.

    1. The seals on the shift rails have not leaked, even though they are at the bottom of the pond instead of the top.

    2. Still looking for those rubber boots, 3/8" on one end, 1 1/4" on the other.

    3. Everything has held up well, except for the rear output bearing. I blame this on Teraflex because they only provided 1! shim which made the bearing too tight when you torqued down the yoke nut.

    4. Ive about got the NV4500 finished up, which is pushing the case back another 2-2.5", so be on the lookout for an updated lever configuration.
     
  17. Spence

    Spence Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2005
    Location:
    Lexington
    how about this? Mcmaster carr PN 9744K12
    Molded Neoprene-Latex Tapered Bellow Round, 1/2" ID Cuffed End, 1-1/4" ID Flanged End
    In stock at $28.46 Each

    it is 1/2, but nothing a small hose clamp couldnt fix?
     
  18. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Geez! I was hoping they were made of rubber, not gold. Thanks for the heads up though. This will send me spiraling in the right direction. 1/2" would work well actually because there is an alternate 5/8" section I could put it on.
     
  19. jesster

    jesster Member

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2007
    Location:
    Rogersville, TN
    I had the same problem with the Tera 32 spl rear output installation...

    With the 3 shims TF supplied wtih my kit, there was no combination that would give the correct bearing tension. I ended up using two of the shims to get around .000-.001" of yoke endplay and just ran it tight.

    I haven't had the rear output bearing go out on my 300 yet in over two years of usage(lots of trail but very few road miles). However, it will not be a big surprise if/when the rear bearing does finally go out.
     
  20. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Sounds like yours was at least close haha. Mine never failed, I just had to tighetn it regularly, and the seal didn't "seal".
     
  21. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Another mild update. Installed the 4:1 gears. Shift rail seals still haven't leaked. After installing the NV4500 and pushing the case back, I got lazy and just cut a different hole in the tranny tunnel/body. It works better now, but the seat is in the way. The case has held up great since the hardest trail I go on is NC4x4.com.
     
  22. jeepinmatt

    jeepinmatt Still Fat

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2005
    Location:
    Stanley, NC
    Surprisingly, still no leaks from the seals here 4-1/2 years later. If I had it all to do over again, I would still bring the rails out the back, but go with cable shifters instead. I'd also put a second set of detents and springs in the rear portion where the new extension is to help keep it in gear.

    Keeping the stock console is really what has limited the positioning of the levers. They work, but its just harder than it needs to be because things didn't really land in the best position.
     

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