CJ7 junk yard parts bin on 42's

Croatan_Kid said:
Not sure about with a 440, but these were with a SBC in a CJ.

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Later on, he cut the collectors shorter and sorta ran them under the tub. I think you could make it work, pending finding some, and tuck the pipes near-ish to the frame. Bad angle, but you can sorta see how he did it.

View attachment 399766
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I remember when those hood scoops used to mean serious business.
 
New rad actually fits perfect, I can hardly believe it
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Figured out where the engine needs to go, tried some custom header mods but that didn't work. Even though there's 1,200 pounds on that jack and I used heat it wouldn't budge.
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Gave up and ordered a set of shorties from summit, no idea if they'll fit but what I got isn't working. All into the steering shaft and the collectors are in the frame both sides.

Mocked it up with the tcase loose and rotated it flatish to use the the Barnes skid. Front shaft would be all into the trans pan at anything past ride height. Plus I'd have to get a longer input shaft, got plenty of spline engagement but the sealing surface wouldn't be in the seal in the tailshaft adapter. Thought about drilling the Dana 300, but then I'd have to grind the mess out of the trans and you just can't get those big block 727 housings anymore so didn't want to risk it. I'll flat belly the thing when I do the black box and 205, but for now I'm trying to hold a budget.

I did "rebuild on" the 440 though. Before:
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And after the VGG Craigslist rebuild... she's brand new fellas in Chrysler orange:
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Degreased the engine bay and pulled all the old Mopar MPFI stuff out to sell and recoup some dollars hopefully.
 
Hopeful that this weekend I can fab up mounts and the new headers I ordered actually clear everything, and I'll be able to fire it up.

Thinking about exhaust now. Ramcharger had Flowmasters on it, but I think that might get old on a daily driven no top CJ. What else is there that let's the American v8 rumble out, but doesn't drone? Can't stand the clap clap clap racket that the squatters use. So what's everyone run on their v8 open cabin rigs that daily drive them too?
 
To me, Dynomax and Magnaflow are typically quieter. Any straight thru turbo muffler should be quieter, without sacrificing performance.

The real question is going to be fitting the muffler underneath. Might need to look at resonators or quarter-turn pipes to clear out the drone frequency you want.
 
On my YJ I ran 2into1 then 3" and the biggest flow thru Magnaflo muffler I could fit and it sounds good not to much drone all be it a bit loud
 
It's in there... Now for hooking everything up. Why does this CJ seem to have 2' of extra wire for everything???

Hope to have the grill, ps cooler, trans cooler, and radiator in tonight after work.

Tcase is in the same spot so driveshaft length is good, still need to flex it out and check clearance on the front shaft to trans pan.

Front anti wrap bar is all in the way and has to get redone.

My old trans cooler lines are in rough shape, but well run them and see I guess. Not sure what to do here, can you run hose the whole way?

Last time with the lift:
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Sitting on its own mounts - finally.
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Jody Treadway said:
@sawdoff is my "go to" for Mopar info like that. Regarding headers and such
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Shorty headers for a challenger fit great. I decided to not risk the old trans cooler lines and getting some custom lines made up in the morning.

Going to booger fab the ramcharger exhaust pipes under the CJ tonight so I can get it on the road this week.

My son has to drive this thing to the coast Thursday night towing his two sailboats for a regatta while I tow the big boat behind the ram. The way this is going the maiden trip for the big block will be hooked to his trailer, but he won't first place at this regatta last year and has to defend his title this weekend... No pressure.

Oh and I've never had this 440 on the road, and the guy I bought it from had not run it since the late 90's. Should be fine... I've been watching too much vice grip garage
 
Hit a snag. Replaced the fuel pump and did the usual timing chain inspection through the pump port and she's sloppy, real sloppy. So ordered one, but that puts this Thursday out for sure...
 
Got the passenger side exhaust cobbled in there, but it's not a long term solution and neither will the drivers side be if I can even get it to join up. Lots of tight precise bends that even if I order a kit and slice it up I think I still might need to get some pipes bent. Probably going to flex pipe some joints and have it done professionally as much as I don't want to spend the money.

What's the thought on catalytic converters? Only reason I would run them would be to reduce the odor being this is an open top slow moving trail rig and my son's daily? Cats get HOT, take up space, cost extra money... Is it worth it or does everyone run without them and its fine?

Keep in mind this isn't some mamby pamby hoity toity little LS motor with all the latest in clean running sensor gizmos either - we're working on 1960's iron designed to chew on raw dinosaur gravy with no regard for granola, tree bark, or whales, much less what it's exhaust taste like... 'MERICA!
 
Both driveshafts in, trans cooler lines ran, rear anti wrap bolted back up.

I had to rethink the front anti wrap. No room for a cross member unless it was low and that's not going to work.

Ended up with a cantilever 2x2x1/4 wall at weird angles of the drivers frame rail. Gusseted with two 3/8" plates. The shackle hanger is about 5" off the frame. That was miserable cutting all the weird angles and welding upside down in that tight spot. Had to give the exhaust room and try and keep everything from being a rock snag. It's in there, have to see if it twist the frame or not, but I definitely need anti wrap bars on both ends...

Flexed it some and the front shaft is going to hit the trans pan lip. Going to pull it out and remove a balance weight washer and flap wheel the lip off the trans pan. Might end up with 1/2" clearance by the tcase joint. Not much movement there but want to get as much room as possible before I have to lower any bump stops.
 
Spun it over with the starter tonight to check all wiring and start circulating fluids. No plugs in it, did check spark with timing light. Have to figure out lower rad hose and the electric fans need a harness made. Grill is in and all other wiring is done. Expecting to throw the rebuilt Holley on Monday night and firing it up... Hopefully
 
Got up early and did a few things before heading to church in a few minutes.

Lower rad hose. Don't judge me you know this is your back up plan too...
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Made the fan harness, mounted the winch, put batt power to it to spool the winch back nice. Tried headlights, yup got lights, tried brights since I have some fender mount flood led on a relay that come on with brights and no lights other than markers. Weird. Check fuses, find the one for the led relay is blow, replace that and they work, headlights are now wacked. Sometimes they come on, drivers is always dim, sometimes nothing. Gauge lights always work. I dunno...

Fans come on with the key. But they're supposed to come on when the temp sensor hits 195. Either their wiring diagram is wrong or the provided relay is wired wrong, or the sensor is the wrong one. But I can run it with the fans on all the time so that's a later problem
 
Fixed the lights, fixed the fans, made the spark plug wires... Ready for carb tomorrow and first fire in the jeep.

Got two leaking freeze plugs now. I wire wheeled the holes, acetone wiped them and tapped in new plugs with rtv. Don't know that I could do any better. Maybe they'll self seal with deposits soon???
 
It runs. Little noisy with open headers. No fluids puked out. Did some topping off and shut it down. Made the throttle cable work, but had to get into the fishing tackle. Similar ingenuity on the kickdown cable.

Exhaust guy can't get to it for another couple weeks so I bought some 2.5" pipe and started cobbling last night.

Alternator was charging so pulled that off and will have it tested today.

Supposed to take this to URE on Friday. That's fine...
 
Drove a few miles. Did a 0-60 pass. It's reasonably quick. Temp got to 220, but temp gun has the rad at 175 so I think the thermostat is a 220. Got to switch that out tonight. My PVC lower rad hose exploded while parked in the garage so at least the coolant is drained. Both valve covers leak horribly at the back, guess I should have put some rtv on those.

Overall it runs well. Very smooth and good V8 power. Final bugs to work out then off to URE Friday.
 
Replaced PVC lower rad hose spacer with aluminum tubing. Yes I tried multiple different flex hoses and none of those worked.

New alternator is on, old one tested bad so hopefully it will charge now. I did install a new voltage regulator too.

Replaced the thermostat with a 185 degree thermostat. The one that was in there was stamped 160. Put the torch on it and it opened. Sort of concerned about this situation. I don't recall it ever running hot in the ramcharger. I did put a new water pump on and the coolant seems to be flowing in the rad. We'll see tomorrow I guess.

New valve cover gaskets again, but this time I used copious amounts of rtv. Got to let that dry overnight. Will fire it up in the morning, hopefully get charging and no high temps and no leaks... Then on the trailer for URE.
 
Nothing like a good shake down run as soon as you put something back together!
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Nothing like a good shake down run as soon as you put something back together!
Click to expand...
I did put 2 miles on it the morning we left so total "testing" time was about 3.5 miles before we hit trails.

Overall things went well. Only real problem is its carbureted so bumps and inclines are not it's favorite, but biggest challenge is it gets hot. I would see 220 while on the trail crawling up any sort of slope and had to stop, open the hood and let it cool down. Took the hood off in the afternoon and that helped a little.

I think I have to little air flow from the two dink 10" puller fans that came with the rad. Its a 4 aluminum row and I have a trans cooler and ps cooler in front.

So what's everyone doing for cooling that has bigger power under a jeep? What fans are you running?

My current setup is this thing:
www.alloyworksplus.com

Alloyworks 4 Row Radiator+Shroud Fan For 1972-1986 Jeep CJ CJ5 CJ6 CJ7/GM Chevy V8

Fits: 1972-1981 Jeep CJ5 5.0L 304Cu. V8 1976-1981 Jeep CJ7 5.0L 304Cu. V8 Click here to view all compatible vehicles Package Include: 1 X 4-Row AA5052 Aluminum Radiator 1 X CNC Machined Radiator Cap 1 X AA5052 Aluminum Shroud 2 X Fans 90W (Includes mounting kits) 1 X Thermostat Relay Kit...
www.alloyworksplus.com www.alloyworksplus.com
 
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Clubbs said:
I did put 2 miles on it the morning we left so total "testing" time was about 3.5 miles before we hit trails.

Overall things went well. Only real problem is its carbureted so bumps and inclines are not it's favorite, but biggest challenge is it gets hot. I would see 220 while on the trail crawling up any sort of slope and had to stop, open the hood and let it cool down. Took the hood off in the afternoon and that helped a little.

I think I have to little air flow from the two dink 10" puller fans that came with the rad. Its a 4 aluminum row and I have a trans cooler and ps cooler in front.

So what's everyone doing for cooling that has bigger power under a jeep? What fans are you running?

My current setup is this thing:
www.alloyworksplus.com

Alloyworks 4 Row Radiator+Shroud Fan For 1972-1986 Jeep CJ CJ5 CJ6 CJ7/GM Chevy V8

Fits: 1972-1981 Jeep CJ5 5.0L 304Cu. V8 1976-1981 Jeep CJ7 5.0L 304Cu. V8 Click here to view all compatible vehicles Package Include: 1 X 4-Row AA5052 Aluminum Radiator 1 X CNC Machined Radiator Cap 1 X AA5052 Aluminum Shroud 2 X Fans 90W (Includes mounting kits) 1 X Thermostat Relay Kit...
www.alloyworksplus.com www.alloyworksplus.com
Click to expand...
Volvo radiator fan and it's OEM relay flat out works. I was able to cool my 11:1 306 with an OEM 3.0 V6 radiator for years and years with one. It uses the same motor as the infamous Taurus unit. But with a separate fan/motor from the shroud. Makes it easy to mount and control.
Google Volvo fan conversion and you'll see all the model info. Pretty much late 90s-mid 2000s Volvos is the application. Grab the fan, relay and wiring. You'll only need to hook up a power, ground and signal to the temp sensor/switch.
 
Clubbs said:
I did put 2 miles on it the morning we left so total "testing" time was about 3.5 miles before we hit trails.

Overall things went well. Only real problem is its carbureted so bumps and inclines are not it's favorite, but biggest challenge is it gets hot. I would see 220 while on the trail crawling up any sort of slope and had to stop, open the hood and let it cool down. Took the hood off in the afternoon and that helped a little.

I think I have to little air flow from the two dink 10" puller fans that came with the rad. Its a 4 aluminum row and I have a trans cooler and ps cooler in front.

So what's everyone doing for cooling that has bigger power under a jeep? What fans are you running?

My current setup is this thing:
www.alloyworksplus.com

Alloyworks 4 Row Radiator+Shroud Fan For 1972-1986 Jeep CJ CJ5 CJ6 CJ7/GM Chevy V8

Fits: 1972-1981 Jeep CJ5 5.0L 304Cu. V8 1976-1981 Jeep CJ7 5.0L 304Cu. V8 Click here to view all compatible vehicles Package Include: 1 X 4-Row AA5052 Aluminum Radiator 1 X CNC Machined Radiator Cap 1 X AA5052 Aluminum Shroud 2 X Fans 90W (Includes mounting kits) 1 X Thermostat Relay Kit...
www.alloyworksplus.com www.alloyworksplus.com
Click to expand...
I could be wrong, but I would wonder if the fans are pulling air in through those vents in the shroud? That could be limiting the amount of air flow its pulling through the radiator.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Volvo radiator fan and it's OEM relay flat out works. I was able to cool my 11:1 306 with an OEM 3.0 V6 radiator for years and years with one. It uses the same motor as the infamous Taurus unit. But with a separate fan/motor from the shroud. Makes it easy to mount and control.
Google Volvo fan conversion and you'll see all the model info. Pretty much late 90s-mid 2000s Volvos is the application. Grab the fan, relay and wiring. You'll only need to hook up a power, ground and signal to the temp sensor/switch.
Click to expand...
Have you tried any aftermarket/replacement volvo fans? I know the Taurus replacement fans/motors arent near the same as the factory ones.
 
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