Best cutting method

obullfish

obullfish

Carolina Trail Blazers
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Location
Candler N.C.
Getting ready to cut the rear armor and body under the armor for more clearance before installing new JCR flares. Thinking of fine tooth sawzall and jigsaw is going to be the best tool for the job. What do you all think?
C970BEAA-E302-42CF-98BE-3B78B8FB8256.jpeg
 
Automatic shears like for roofing (similar to a nibbler)

Grinder with cut off wheel

Fine tooth blade on a good quality jigsaw or sawzall
 
Thin kerf cut off wheel for staight sections. Light pressure take your time. Make several light passes instead up just burying up and plowing. You will be surprised how much more cutting you get per rock and much less apt to bind and kick or explode. Less heat and warping by letting it work. Curved sections with body saw or saw zall.

Sawzall tip. Use about a 18 tooth. Take blade and cut profile down to .5 to .375 wide. Make turns better and still stiffer than a recip. saw blade. Now the best part......put it in teeth toward the back. Facing away from the trigger is the direction I'm talking about. You have now taken the hopping beat the hell out of everything terror out of the tool. The blade will now stroke straight in and out without the bouncing action.
Float the blade and use a broader cutting area. The guide/ guard is useless. A six inch blade work well for fender areas.
I regularly cut 3/16 and 1/8 aluminum full wheel wells in fire truck this way. Only difference is stick wax to keep it shedding chips on the aluminum.
Use a piece of soft wood like a 2x4 for clamping the flopping part back tight. Using shims and heavily taped 2x's you can nearly stop scratches and denting from flailing fender parts.
 
Jig saw and patience. Sawzall will be faster on the straight portions.
 
Beat it with your purse.:lol:

Cut off wheel or nibblers.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Thin kerf cut off wheel for staight sections. Light pressure take your time. Make several light passes instead up just burying up and plowing. You will be surprised how much more cutting you get per rock and much less apt to bind and kick or explode. Less heat and warping by letting it work. Curved sections with body saw or saw zall.

Sawzall tip. Use about a 18 tooth. Take blade and cut profile down to .5 to .375 wide. Make turns better and still stiffer than a recip. saw blade. Now the best part......put it in teeth toward the back. Facing away from the trigger is the direction I'm talking about. You have now taken the hopping beat the hell out of everything terror out of the tool. The blade will now stroke straight in and out without the bouncing action.
Float the blade and use a broader cutting area. The guide/ guard is useless. A six inch blade work well for fender areas.
I regularly cut 3/16 and 1/8 aluminum full wheel wells in fire truck this way. Only difference is stick wax to keep it shedding chips on the aluminum.
Use a piece of soft wood like a 2x4 for clamping the flopping part back tight. Using shims and heavily taped 2x's you can nearly stop scratches and denting from flailing fender parts.
Click to expand...

Please give a more thorough answer next time.
:p
 
Jody Treadway said:
Please give a more thorough answer next time.
:p
Click to expand...
I've got used to teaching a wide range of backgrounds...doesn't apply here but I'm convinced most are fidiots. My students would still end up with a cold chisel and a damn hammer after that explanation.

On second thought. Use an air hammer and sheet metal insert. Blunt preferably with undersized compressor.
 
I'd use a cut off wheel then clean up the edges and corners with a flap wheel.

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