Accidentally building an LJ

Can you go with a stamped cover? Seems like that would give you a few inches of clearance.
That’s the plan. I’ve got one in my pile of front axle parts. Whoever put this together notched the Currie truss and ground a good bit off of the cover to make it fit. Not having to run a big cover is kind of the point of the Rockjock.
That Rockjock diff is a PITA
Yeah, it’s big in a very different way than a normal 60 would have been.
 
Thanks ya’ll. Im super happy with how it’s been turning out. I don’t have too much more to post before it’s caught up to the present. Next thing on the list for it is fixing the front suspension/steering. Links should be good but some stuff needs to be moved around to be able to use the uptravel that the ORI’s are set up for. I’ve got some ideas that aren’t the most common way to do things up there that’ll hopefully work out. Biggest one being I’m gonna attempt to use a forward swinging steering box mounted between the grille and shock tower so I can push the front axle out a bit more than it currently is. Picking up a couple boxes tomorrow to start figuring that out.
I know you were looking for an outside the frame box. But if you could fit it inside the frame there’s a JK PSC big bore box on marketplace in my area for $750. I’ve thought about snagging it for this same purpose.
 
I know you were looking for an outside the frame box. But if you could fit it inside the frame there’s a JK PSC big bore box on marketplace in my area for $750. I’ve thought about snagging it for this same purpose.
I doubt I can fit one inside the frame. That Rockjock housing takes up ALL the room over there. I’m picking up a couple Ford boxes this weekend to try though. $750 is a good price on that if it’s not trashed. They’re $12 or 1300 from PSC.
 
I doubt I can fit one inside the frame. That Rockjock housing takes up ALL the room over there. I’m picking up a couple Ford boxes this weekend to try though. $750 is a good price on that if it’s not trashed. They’re $12 or 1300 from PSC.
Yeah it is. If I had the spare $ I'd grab it just to put back for the future. I have the full PSC big bore hydro assist kit here waiting to put on mine.
 
Exactly. The cage in the TJ body was done that way but they shot the tube through the wrong spot and used dryer ducting to hook the vents back up. I’d have been pretty pissed at myself if I had built a cage with the stanchions before discovering the leak in the A/C evaporator. Replacing that is probably going to happen at the same time the cage bars go in. You wouldn’t think that losing 1.5” or so in the front edge of the door opening is a big deal but I caught my feet on it every single time I got out.
Same here my size 15 doesn't play nice.with my down bar
 
Flipping the tie rod to the top of the pitman arm would help some, but probably not going to buy you enough room on its own. Swapping to a forward-facing pitman arm might be the way to go. It saves you the difficulty of fabbing for an outboard box, and saves the heartache of wondering when it's going to let go.

Make sure to do your homework on whatever TREs or rod ends you want to use for the drag link. I wasn't able to find any that actually make the angles needed when the passenger front is drooped out.
 
Here's another idea, then I'll STFU: go pick up a $300 junkyard 05+ super duty front, throw an Artec (or whatever) conversion kit on it, then build around that. Sell the Rockjock axle to recoup some of the money you're going to spend on hub assemblies, brakes, etc.

It looks like Artec has a JK conversion kit for the 05+ axles: JK JL JT 1 TON - APEX Front Superduty Swap Kit 1999-2004

It would probably need some adjustment to get everything exactly as you wanted, but those stamped trusses are super nice.
 
Flipping the tie rod to the top of the pitman arm would help some, but probably not going to buy you enough room on its own. Swapping to a forward-facing pitman arm might be the way to go. It saves you the difficulty of fabbing for an outboard box, and saves the heartache of wondering when it's going to let go.

Make sure to do your homework on whatever TREs or rod ends you want to use for the drag link. I wasn't able to find any that actually make the angles needed when the passenger front is drooped out.
Yeah, I’d gain a bit of up-travel clearance right there. The draglink TRE is every bit as close to the tie rod as it looks like in those pics and makes contact for sure. I’ve got another TJ pitman arm here to flip as an option.

TRE angle is definitely a concern. Those ORI’s drop out a ton. I’m gonna try to stay away from heims in the steering but may have to go that route.
Here's another idea, then I'll STFU: go pick up a $300 junkyard 05+ super duty front, throw an Artec (or whatever) conversion kit on it, then build around that. Sell the Rockjock axle to recoup some of the money you're going to spend on hub assemblies, brakes, etc.

It looks like Artec has a JK conversion kit for the 05+ axles: JK JL JT 1 TON - APEX Front Superduty Swap Kit 1999-2004

It would probably need some adjustment to get everything exactly as you wanted, but those stamped trusses are super nice.
That would have been a solid move if I didn’t already have every part for this axle except the inner shafts. I’d go that route for sure if I was starting from scratch.

No need to stop brainstorming ideas. Even if I don’t go a suggested route, it could still help somebody else out looking for ideas. That’s why I still like forums better than Facespace of the Gram.
 
No need to stop brainstorming ideas. Even if I don’t go a suggested route, it could still help somebody else out looking for ideas. That’s why I still like forums better than Facespace of the Gram.
And the ideas are actually someone with true knowledge has either done or tried. I cannot tell you how much junk info is out there on those two sites. Yes you get quick answers but 9 or 10 are dead wrong.
 
I’m gonna try to stay away from heims in the steering but may have to go that route.
I'm sure I have notes on it somewhere, but my recollection is that the "Chevy 1 ton" or whatever TREs would only do about 15-18* of misalignment. A 3/4" heim with misalignment bushings was about 30*. If you buy the good teflon-lined (FMX??) joints, they last several years before they start getting loose. All I know for sure is that I drooped out the passenger tire and tried to hook up the drag link with TREs... it wasn't happening, couldn't get there from here.
 
Oh, and if anybody does opt to go with heims on top of the stock pitman arm, be sure to check the radiator clearance. It's really tight when turning right with a 1.25" body lift. What size joint and which misalignment bushings you can use will probably be dictated by that clearance.
 
Here's another idea, then I'll STFU: go pick up a $300 junkyard 05+ super duty front, throw an Artec (or whatever) conversion kit on it, then build around that. Sell the Rockjock axle to recoup some of the money you're going to spend on hub assemblies, brakes, etc.

It looks like Artec has a JK conversion kit for the 05+ axles: JK JL JT 1 TON - APEX Front Superduty Swap Kit 1999-2004

It would probably need some adjustment to get everything exactly as you wanted, but those stamped trusses are super nice.

That’s the truss I have to use on my LJ. It came up at a good deal locally on Marketplace.

I called Artec to see if it was possible to use on a TJ/LJ. There’s about .75” difference per side in spring pad width, but the TJ swap truss has the same issue because of the pumpkin. The springs can be ran as is, they’ll just have some bow to them. I’ve also seen people modify the towers to move the upper mount out. I actually also found a set of Artec’s old discontinued replacement towers that space the springs out to match.

There’s also minor differences in link mounts that would require custom control arms if using stock style suspension, but makes no difference if you’re doing a 3 link.
 
How about a Genright twisted or even a DIY pitman arm? I feel like that would gain you some clearance. And also buys back more angle for the drag link joint. The Genright one is $$ but it is nice. I have one in my mountain of parts waiting for mine. Actually picked it up for a good deal from someone on here.
 
That’s the truss I have to use on my LJ. It came up at a good deal locally on Marketplace.

I called Artec to see if it was possible to use on a TJ/LJ. There’s about .75” difference per side in spring pad width, but the TJ swap truss has the same issue because of the pumpkin. The springs can be ran as is, they’ll just have some bow to them. I’ve also seen people modify the towers to move the upper mount out. I actually also found a set of Artec’s old discontinued replacement towers that space the springs out to match.

There’s also minor differences in link mounts that would require custom control arms if using stock style suspension, but makes no difference if you’re doing a 3 link.
Yeah, stock for stock, JK and TJ link mounts are in the same spots (close enough not to matter). Track bar is completely different, shocks and sway bar a little different, JK spring perches are taller, further apart, and about 3-4" further back than TJ (3/4" aft of axle center instead of ~3" forward of center, so JK axle moves forward if you keep TJ frame buckets as-is). I did like you're talking about and cut 3/4" out of the artec truss, moved the springs inboard to where they needed to be for the TJ.

How about a Genright twisted or even a DIY pitman arm? I feel like that would gain you some clearance. And also buys back more angle for the drag link joint. The Genright one is $$ but it is nice. I have one in my mountain of parts waiting for mine. Actually picked it up for a good deal from someone on here.
The radiator is the problem. If you take the stock pitman and just put a heim on top, you end up within about 1/2" of the bottom hose and tank.

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Modifying the pitman arm to capture the SRE is no big deal:

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I’m gonna try to stay away from heims in the steering but may have to go that route.

I'm sure I have notes on it somewhere, but my recollection is that the "Chevy 1 ton" or whatever TREs would only do about 15-18* of misalignment. A 3/4" heim with misalignment bushings was about 30*. If you buy the good teflon-lined (FMX??) joints, they last several years before they start getting loose. All I know for sure is that I drooped out the passenger tire and tried to hook up the drag link with TREs... it wasn't happening, couldn't get there from here.
I put over 20k miles on all heim steering and never really had a problem. They wern't even baller heims, just 15$ Barnes heims. I always kept a right and left in the glove box but never needed them. I would have no fear of running heims on the street with steering.
 
I put over 20k miles on all heim steering and never really had a problem. They wern't even baller heims, just 15$ Barnes heims. I always kept a right and left in the glove box but never needed them. I would have no fear of running heims on the street with steering.
My LJ currently has all heim steering on the aftermarket "high steer" on the D30. It has horrible geometry and drives like hot garbage due to bump steer, but the heims are solid. :laughing: I will be staying with heims once I get the tons swapped in.
 
Heck of a deal on what appears to be PSC Scout II box. Outside frame mount, forward swing. Parts might be hard to come by if you ever needed to rebuild it though.


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Heck of a deal on what appears to be PSC Scout II box. Outside frame mount, forward swing. Parts might be hard to come by if you ever needed to rebuild it though.

I ended up with a couple of the big Ford boxes from the 78/79 Broncos. I think that’s the route I’m gonna try to go. It looks like it’ll fit between my shock tower and the grille. I need to cut the existing pan hard bar bracket off to really tell if it’s gonna work though. It’s coming off to get reworked anyway so I just need to dedicate a couple of days and chop stuff up.
 
Might have finally fixed the oil leak from the back of the engine. Now I can hopefully degrease and pressure wash the rest off of it and not get filthy working on it. I had replaced the valve cover gasket when the body was off but still had a leak. After driving this thing down to my parent‘s house in SC a week or so ago, it was pouring oil underneath it. The back corner of the valve cover was broken off. JB welded it in a rural king parking lot to get it home and then swapped the “fancy” valve cover that was on it for a factory stamped one. I let it idle for a bit after changing the oil and it’s still clean underneath it. Next up is the trans pan that’s seeping around the gasket.
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This is the crappy side to the front suspension in this thing. In the couple inches before everything hits everything, it drives really nice. That’s 70ish mph down I-40 with no swaybars and other than setting the toe and centering the rear end, it’s not really aligned. It’s actually impressive how nice it goes down the road.
 
I got started on the rear sway bar yesterday. Pulled the springs and put the axle at full bump to figure out where I could slip the bar in. I’m using a TK1 Racing “Rockcrawler” kit. Super nice stuff. I’ve got the mounts I made partially in place but still need to add a tube brace or two before it’s done. I also need to bend the arms a bit to clear my coil mounts on the frame. I talked to Tony at TK1 and he told me how he bends them. I’ve got the stuff to make a version of his bender. I got all the steel to make the sway bar mounts and bendy tool from Stock Car Steel for less than $20. The “drop” rack is what’s up for random bits. Lots of short lengths of dom and 4130 tubing.

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I like that floor jack with the rubber tires so you don't get hung up on a driveway pebble!
 
I like that floor jack with the rubber tires so you don't get hung up on a driveway pebble!
It’s a Harbor Freight Badlands jack. It’s awesome for uneven ground and it’s quiet when you drag it around too. It came with a bolt on extension too so it‘ll lift tall stuff. Solid purchase.

 
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