3D PRINTING

New toy at the office. I don’t know a damn thing about them, but it’s apparently pretty cool.
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that is an expensive printer. "Industrial" type, like Ultimaker, designed to be "push a button and walk away" style idiot proof.
 
Running a flight 3 Arleigh Burke Destroyer. 9 hour print. ~250 mm in length. Had a little separation on the raft.

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why not? its not illegal to manufacturer your own guns or suppressors etc....
Not everyone likes having their Form 1-level activities in the public eye.
 
Printed another chassis today. This was the first thing I have printed out of ABS on the Bambu (and I only ever printed a couple things out of ABS on the CR10). NO test print, just sliced it and pressed print. The quality is absolutely amazing.

I am not sure which will be better for these chassis, PETG or ABS. The light blue is PETG, dark blue is ABS. If anyone is interested in one I can print more, but I will also be putting some at Anderson R/C for him to sell.

Also printed a new plane, still have to paint and assemble it, but all the parts are printed. The LWPLA is tricky even on the Bambu, BUT I didn't do any test prints, and no failed prints, just some have more zits on the outside that I like, but it is fairly easy to sand, and once painted and in the air, I won't see any of it. Designs modeled there they can be printed in vase mode with no infill would be ideal, the starts/stops cause the issues as the LWPLA constantly ooozes out, but it has to be printed at a high temp to make it 'expand'.

I also made a ventilation duct today specifically for printing ABS. With the chamber fan on 50% I can't smell it at all.
 

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@RatLabGuy

Was going to PM, but figured this might eventually help someone else. Trying 'Overture Air Pla', it is 'pre-foamed' so it's 20% lighter than regular PLA. Very useful for RC planes. I have tried slowing the speed/acceleration way down, it prints beautifully everywhere except the z-axis start point on each layer where it under extrudes. I have tried raising flow, adding retraction, etc etc etc. Any genius ideas?
 

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@RatLabGuy

Was going to PM, but figured this might eventually help someone else. Trying 'Overture Air Pla', it is 'pre-foamed' so it's 20% lighter than regular PLA. Very useful for RC planes. I have tried slowing the speed/acceleration way down, it prints beautifully everywhere except the z-axis start point on each layer where it under extrudes. I have tried raising flow, adding retraction, etc etc etc. Any genius ideas?
If it is underextruding at the start wouldn't you want to decrease retraction? Are you getting stringing anywhere else?
I'm guessing this stuff is rather pliable - does it compress when pushed? I'm wondering if extrusion is always a little slow to get started because it is slightly compressing from friction in the hot end as it melts?
Have you done a basic temp tower?
Was there a big difference when you changed the speed?
 
Retraction, no retraction, snails pace on silent mode it still does it. And I mean a snails pace. Like 40mm/s, barely moving. It's ridiculous. I have not tried a temp tower, since I am printing these single wall that probably doesn't help. I printed something on regular speed settings and it printed a larger base three layers thick just fine, it's something about the z-seam that seems to be the main point of issue.
 
Retraction, no retraction, snails pace on silent mode it still does it. And I mean a snails pace. Like 40mm/s, barely moving. It's ridiculous. I have not tried a temp tower, since I am printing these single wall that probably doesn't help. I printed something on regular speed settings and it printed a larger base three layers thick just fine, it's something about the z-seam that seems to be the main point of issue.
Is each model layer primarily 1 continuous line? Or are there multiple start-stops per Z change?

Make a simple box, and print 3 of them at once, that will tell you. My guess is it's not "z" but the re-start after movement.

Also try a stringing test
 
Today at work a guy asked me, "how low z resolution can you really get with fdm to eliminate lines in curves?"
So I fired up the new X1E, and set z res to only 0.02mm to see what would happen

Holy smokes look at this test ring. Top is perfectly smooth. I cannot feel any ridges at all
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Zoomed out for scale
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And that's with a 0.4mm nozzle!

I'll try again at 0.2mm later...
 
Stop posting on this. I’m about to sell a kidney.
plama will get you into the game, no need to get carried away until you get the feel of how it works, im still learning
 
Stop posting on this. I’m about to sell a kidney.
Yea you don't have to spend an arm and a leg (or a kidney). For small stuff my MP Select did ok to learn on. I have a buddy who may have some stuff for sale still.
 
Or buy a Bambu A1 Mini, or wait until the A1 goes back on sale, then you have something you don't have to constantly tinker with.
 
Or buy a Bambu A1 Mini, or wait until the A1 goes back on sale, then you have something you don't have to constantly tinker with.
Get out of here with that reasonable mess!
 
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@RatLabGuy might should have waited instead of getting the Bambu! Granted I have done zero research on the Phrozen so not real sure how it compares.

 
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@RatLabGuy might should have waited instead of getting the Bambu! Granted I have done zero research on the Phrozen so not real sure how it compares.

Nope. I've seen a lot of talk about this but if you really look into it, you made the right call unless you wanted to wait a long time.
First there are zero details really available about it. But it is being run as a Kickstarter campaign - by a well established company. That doesn't bode very well. Why would they need crowdfunding to get it started? Best guess is it's just a market feeler to see if it's even viable for them (they mostly do SLA printers, so this is a totally new foray). On that note, this is outside of Phrozen's usual wheelhouse.
But time-wise, given this is just a Kickstarter right now, there's no telling when it will even be available. and then you'd want to wait for the kinks to get worked out.

I do believe that is a few years, input-shaping based printers will be the common thing, There's just no reason for manufacturers not to do it, its relatively easy and inexpensive. It won't be long before there are generic / clone versions of the Bambu printers.
 
Nope. I've seen a lot of talk about this but if you really look into it, you made the right call unless you wanted to wait a long time.
First there are zero details really available about it. But it is being run as a Kickstarter campaign - by a well established company. That doesn't bode very well. Why would they need crowdfunding to get it started? Best guess is it's just a market feeler to see if it's even viable for them (they mostly do SLA printers, so this is a totally new foray). On that note, this is outside of Phrozen's usual wheelhouse.
But time-wise, given this is just a Kickstarter right now, there's no telling when it will even be available. and then you'd want to wait for the kinks to get worked out.

I do believe that is a few years, input-shaping based printers will be the common thing, There's just no reason for manufacturers not to do it, its relatively easy and inexpensive. It won't be long before there are generic / clone versions of the Bambu printers.

Gotcha, yea a $250 discount isn't great just so you get the opportunity to be a guinea pig.

As for my extrusion issues, I am just now doing the flow calibration tests with the LW PLA. I have not done any of the calibrations this far so I am learning as I go.
 
Finally got good prints. Turning the flow ratio up to 1.4 is what it took. I won't say they are 100% perfect but they all seem to be structurally sound. All orange pieces for the wings are done, starting on the tail now, then the fuselage. Then I will print all the white parts and use a lot of CA glue to put it all together...
 

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The white filament prints SOOO much better than the orange. Maybe the orange needed to be dried right out of the package. Oh well.... All orange pieces are done, basically just have to do the elevators, and all the backside of the wings.
 

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The white filament prints SOOO much better than the orange. Maybe the orange needed to be dried right out of the package. Oh well.... All orange pieces are done, basically just have to do the elevators, and all the backside of the wings.
I've gotten to where anything other than PLA or ABS goes right in the drier or desiccant box before I plan to use it. I've been surprised how much variance there is in print quality from moisture
 
Wanted a quiver for back yard showing and trying my hand at tournaments, so I drew one up and started it. Debating whether it should have been done as a vase?

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