1st gen cummins temp.

yes

i know, i have to draw the line somewhere. does the fan only lock up at a certain temp. cause today it never locked up and wasn't locked when i got home. it also never rose above half way on the factory gauge. but i was also empty.
 
if you're driving around at low RPM's with the A/C on, I'd imagine it will engage fully. I know mine is when I leave a traffic light after sitting for a few minutes.
 
fan

well i had the ac high i was in charllote at stop lights and it never came on. so maybe thats my prob. where can i get a fan clutch.
 
The fan clutch on my 1990 CTD doesn't fully lock up until I hit 190 degrees on aftermarket temp gauge. You can hear it when it locks up.

It never gets over 180 unless I'm towing, so I never hear the fan engage unless towing.

Engine temp has never gone over 200 yet when towing, but I think I'm a conservative driver, and have not been in the mountains. But I have grossed 21,XXX pounds several times.
 
well

well maybe i will put a real gauge in. and then tow my rig around i little and see what happens. is there any way to test my fan clutch to see if its any good. test the resistance or somthing?
 
you'll only hear the fan once you leave from the lights and get up in the RPMs..

drive it around with the AC on high, then shut it off and wait a minute. Then pop the hood, and it should be hard as hell to turn the fan.
 
well maybe i will put a real gauge in. and then tow my rig around i little and see what happens.
that's what common sense would tell me to do before tossing parts at it.
 
temp

i will do a little towing tomarrow then pull over and see what the fans doin.
 
test run

well i bought another 1990 cummins. i am going to winston selam to pick it up. i installed a temp gauge and oil preasure gauge so we will see what happens.

can i used a water oil temp gauge for my tranny or is there a special gauge for that?
 
it's just an oil temp gauge, it'll work fine.. ;)
 
temp

well it pulled all right but it got up to 210 on up hill pulls. i noticed the fan come on any where from 195 to 210. it also seemed that it would turn off even though it was still over 190. could the senser be bad. has that happened to anyone? it would go from 170 to 210 depending on the road. shouldn't the thermastat keep it at a constant temp? also i try spinning the fan after i stopped and it was never solid. alway free. the temp gauge read 200.
 
i know it's in a different chassis (still a 12v), but i've seen my bus fluctuate as much as 20 degrees going up/down hills. like i mentioned before, it typically runs from 200-210 pulling. 5-10 degrees less empty.
 
I have been fairly well educated on the temperature quirks of the 1st gen. First of all, the factory gauges are not necessarily junk. It is fully agreed that some aftermarket gauges, depending upon quality/cost, are probably a bit more accurate as far as displaying exact readings, but an error of plus or minus a few degrees is not going to destroy your engine. If you are going to leave the truck in stock condition, the factory gauge is fine, and anywhere in the operating-range is fine (assuming the gauge and sending unit are working properly).
BTW: I have a '92 Dodge/Cummins, A-518 auto w/od, K&N filter, and a 4" straight exhaust. It has new (stock) injectors, a recent valve adjust, and the pump has been turned up some. That's all.
From the very first time I pulled the mountain going to Boone NC on Hwy 421 (gross-weight about 13,000 lbs.), I have had a "heat issue". It took me a long time to figure out that it's mostly in the way you drive. In other words, the driver was the main problem. Black Mountain (on I-40) was another warm one, but never as bad as Hwy 421 to Boone.
During my "learning curve" I have sent my complete gauge pod to Southern Electronics for speedometer repair, and gauge calibration. The gauges were within tolerance. I have replaced two fan clutches, had the radiator cleaned, and the list goes on. One particular trip up the Hwy 421 mountain, I borrowed a mechanic-friend's infrared heat detector. The gauge pegged that trip. I pulled over at the top, check the temperature at the outlet and it was 260 degrees (not boiling over). That time it really did worry me.
When I got back home and reported the results to my mechanic he immediately put me in touch with a man (in his 70s) who has specialized in diesel engines most of his life. His first two key questions were: how fast was you going, and what gear was you in. I told him I was in drive (overdrive locked out) and was barely holding 50 mph. His reply was: "what in heaven's name were you trying to do?" "Those older engines weren't designed to be run that way" He told me to drop back to about 40-45 mph, drop down a gear, and back off the throttle. He also told me to look for a "sweet-spot" where the truck felt like it was pulling good. He said it would actually be making more power than if I was holding it to the floor. The next trip, I took his advice. That "sweet-spot" was easy to find, the truck pulled great, and the heat problem went away.
I am NOT saying these old trucks can't be beefed-up. I know they can, but if you are happy with a basically stock truck (I am) you don't need all those expensive accessories. Drive your truck and enjoy it.
This has been my experience, it's not hear-say. Sorry for writing a book!
 
cool

thanks for the advice. i am sure that is part of my problem. i just thought that this truck would be a monster on the up hill pulls. maybe i have my hopes set to high. i think i might still have the radiator cleaned and just see what happens.
 
His reply was: "what in heaven's name were you trying to do?" "Those older engines weren't designed to be run that way" He told me to drop back to about 40-45 mph, drop down a gear, and back off the throttle. He also told me to look for a "sweet-spot" where the truck felt like it was pulling good. He said it would actually be making more power than if I was holding it to the floor. The next trip, I took his advice. That "sweet-spot" was easy to find, the truck pulled great, and the heat problem went away.
I am NOT saying these old trucks can't be beefed-up. I know they can, but if you are happy with a basically stock truck (I am) you don't need all those expensive accessories. Drive your truck and enjoy it.
This has been my experience, it's not hear-say. Sorry for writing a book!


wonder if that's a difference in a 5-speed and an auto...

before I ever touched mine under the hood...I towed my TJ to Crozet, which included the loved Fancy Gap climb...

...and also towed a '92 F-250 from Charlotte, NC to Louisville, KY...

with the factory spring in the pump, and nothing tweaked...75MPH was the max...and I could do that uphill, downhill, with or without trailer...

I used it as my cruise control...never even looked at the speedo on the interstate, just held the pedal to the floor...

personally...I'd take it out back and shoot it if it wouldn't run more than 40-50MPH with 7000lbs or less behind it...

Greg
 
right on

thats why i bought the cummins. so i could go 55 60 up the hills. if i can't do that i might as well keep the gaser. but i havn't givn up quite yet. i actually ust bought another 1990 cummins. it was the one for sale down below. i pulled it back from winsten salem and it did pritty good. got to 195. but that was a pritty flat pull. i pulled my toyota up to mt. city couple day ago and at one point i was goin 22 mph and still getting hot. i pulled over twice. i can't really turn the screw until i know it can cool it. i am going to buy a radiator. i've heard that the bottom third can get ploged from the silicone in the coolant. i might go buy a infer red gun and test it out. also i am going to install a aux. tranny cooler with fan . get the tranny heat out of the rad.
 
I can't imagine an auto without a lockup TC would be very effective at getting the power down... Like someone else said, their 2nd Gen really pulls well only when the TC is locked in, and I'd agree, even with my much tighter than stock aftermarket TC.

OTOH, I've seen some 1st gen's pulling big 5th wheels, horse trailers, etc... before at highway speeds, but never looked to see if they were auto or 5-speeds.

Tim - when you were getting really bogged down - was the engine bogged down too, or was it revving, like a slipping clutch?
 
Yes this is very weird that you are having these issues.. it may be an auto vs 5 speed.. since mine is 5 speed and I can pull with an 2nd or 3rd gen with no issues.. there has to be an issue with yours..

I would post on http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php
int he 1st gen section .. someone there should ahve a good answer for you
 
overdrive

i had the overdrive off. there is a button on mine. that means the tc is lock up right? or do i need to install a switch? when it was really struggling, like 22mph it wasn't reving to much. it was just all it had. which is fine because know i can turn it up. its just the getting hot part thats hard to deal with. i ordered a rad. today and i also plan on a aux tranny cooler. the fan did come on which helped.
 
i had the overdrive off. there is a button on mine. that means the tc is lock up right?

That's just it.. I don't think the TC's have a lockup function with those...
 
Again, without a lockup converter, i cant imagine it pulling very well at all. My bombed 3rd gen cummins sucks to me until the converter is locked, then all is well. I cant imagine never being able to lock it up.
 
i just need to know how to lock it up?

AFAIK, you can't. That function isn't in the valvebody, and there are no clutches in the torque converter itself...
 
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