Converting gooseneck jack to electric with atv winches

Curtis_H

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Location
High Point NC
A few have asked for more details so here you go. @NCJeeplover @paradisePWoffrd

I have had this idea for awhile but I hadn’t got around to trying it until now. A friend of mine actually did his trailer the same way a few weeks ago using only one winch and attaching it to where the jack handle normally goes. I was not able to do this due to having a camper built on the front. Original thought was 1 winch in between the 2 jacks and use a chain and sprockets to attach winch to the common bar inbetween the jacks. I think this would have worked just fine but since mine also has a camper attached figured I would do the jacks separate to help with leveling on uneven terrain.

I used 2 harbor freight 2500lbs atv winches. I removed the drum from the winch and used just the motors.
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Below is how I adapted from the splined fitting on the winch to the 1” shaft coming from the Jack. I welded all these pieces together after the pic was taken.
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I used the plate that used to hold the drum as a support For the shaft and mounting bracket for the winch. I moved the plate closer to the winch using the 2 existing mounting holes. I then simply drilled a hole in the shaft I made to hook it to the jack shaft.
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I mounted a small marine deep cycle battery in between them. This is one part I’m not sure of on what size battery I should use so we will see what happens.
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It’s hard to see but that is a pic of one of the toggles. When the other comes in it will be mounted beside of it. The winches have to go opposite directions of each other to go up or down together so I will reverse the wires on one switch so when I press them both up the trailer goes up.
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I also added a kill switch in a different location out of normal sight so someone can not just walk by and hit the buttons to see what they do.
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Hopefully I will get it completely finished tomorrow. But one thing I have noticed already is that one winch runs a little slower than the other. Not by much but a little. I think it’s due to the shafts not being the same lengths but not positive. I made the shaft on the right winch a little longer to clear my electrical box but I think I’m going to end up moving the box and cutting the shaft down to the same size as the left winch.
 
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Awesome idea and execution.

I have often thought about welding a half inch extension to my jacks shaft and using my impact to run it up and down. My impact is always under the back seat, i just wasn't sure if it would work or beat up the gears in the jacks.
 
Awesome idea and execution.

I have often thought about welding a half inch extension to my jacks shaft and using my impact to run it up and down. My impact is always under the back seat, i just wasn't sure if it would work or beat up the gears in the jacks.

I would be concerned the impact would eventually break the thru-bolt with the hammering motion. Probably work for a while but might break something over time
 
I would be concerned the impact would eventually break the thru-bolt with the hammering motion. Probably work for a while but might break something over time
This

Center pins of TC jacks don't like impacts at all @CasterTroy :lol:
 
Awesome idea and execution.

I have often thought about welding a half inch extension to my jacks shaft and using my impact to run it up and down. My impact is always under the back seat, i just wasn't sure if it would work or beat up the gears in the jacks.

Might work with a big drill, as long as it doesn't have the impact motion, I think you'll be OK.
 
Might work with a big drill, as long as it doesn't have the impact motion, I think you'll be OK.

I use to use a drill to raise and lower My Slide in camper and it worked well in low gear. I think it would take one heck of a drill to raise my gooseneck though. I have heard of people using a harbor freight pipe threader but never actually seen it.
 
I use to use a drill to raise and lower My Slide in camper and it worked well in low gear. I think it would take one heck of a drill to raise my gooseneck though. I have heard of people using a harbor freight pipe threader but never actually seen it.
I've bored out H2 wheel centers with a 1/2" chuck harbor freight drill. But it did break the screw in handle off the metal housing. Don't underestimate the power of orange chinese plastic!
 
Well got the other toggle in and tested. From fully seated to clearing the bed it takes about 2 full mins. Which I have a flat bed and the ball sets down inside the bed. On a normal bed you could cut this time down 30 seconds to a minute I bet. So not super fast and it’s pretty noisy but faster and easier than hand cranking. And I wasn’t sweating when I got done. If someone can tell me how to up load a video I’ll post it.
 
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You have to upload the video to YouTube, then post the link here.
 
Never had one of those apart. Is the reduction gearing in the housing next to the motor? Many others are a through shaft to the other side of the drum.
 
The only issue is if the winch fails you have gotta take it all apart and swap the handle back on. I would mount the winch on the passenger side jack then it would be easier to swap the handle back on the driver side. Or maybe the handle can swap to both sides?
Either way I'm gonna do this soon. :rockon:

Here is a pic of how my buddy did his with one winch.

View attachment 326465
 
Never had one of those apart. Is the reduction gearing in the housing next to the motor? Many others are a through shaft to the other side of the drum.
Reply to self......yes planetary style reduction in housing. Complete with shit seals and brake housed in drum.
 
The only issue is if the winch fails you have gotta take it all apart and swap the handle back on. I would mount the winch on the passenger side jack then it would be easier to swap the handle back on the driver side. Or maybe the handle can swap to both sides?
Either way I'm gonna do this soon. :rockon:

I thought about this. If I would of used the chain and sprocket idea you would only needed to free spool the winch and then you could manually Crank it. But it’s only 3 bolts per winch and I left the common bar and jack handle in the tool box. So realistically I could have it swapped back to manual in under 15 mins. So somewhat a pain but not that big of a deal.
 
The only issue is if the winch fails you have gotta take it all apart and swap the handle back on. I would mount the winch on the passenger side jack then it would be easier to swap the handle back on the driver side. Or maybe the handle can swap to both sides?
Either way I'm gonna do this soon. :rockon:

I am thinking this might be what I do.

Curtis, thanks for putting this together. I would suggest adding a solar panel charger for that battery.

Speaking of, wonder if I could use an M18 battery to power this setup? Would be really nice to mount a dock on the trailer that runs off a small battery to power this and the LED deck lights.
 
I am thinking this might be what I do.

Curtis, thanks for putting this together. I would suggest adding a solar panel charger for that battery.

Speaking of, wonder if I could use an M18 battery to power this setup? Would be really nice to mount a dock on the trailer that runs off a small battery to power this and the LED deck lights.

I ended up installing a gensuis5 5 amp charger/battery tender that can be left hooked to battery at all times, So anytime camper is plugged in it charges back up.
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Bumping this as it was linked on Irate4x4. Still liking the winches on your gooseneck trailers? Seems like a no-brainer to set one up.
 
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