trailer axle mounting questions

marty79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2015
Location
Newton, NC
hey guys, need a little help. I've been reading too much stuff and just can't make up my mind on this:
Got a 16ft camper trailer ($100) with a single 6 Lug brake drop axle, 15" rims. The axle is centered on it, has brakes, 6 leaf springs mounted as a underslung drop axle..it's the square tube type bent all in one not welded or anything.
So I'm getting another axle to mount to it for dual axle car trailer and I know I need to also mount it underslung also but my question is this:
The 5 Lug trailer axle like most, has only 3 leaf springs so how will this affect the mounting and ride? Do I need to compensate for this and mount the spring hanger on this axle little lower?
Do I mount the 6 leaf pack axle in the front or the back?
Maybe I'm overthinking it as usual but I only want to do it once so here I am. Thanks for the help
 
hey guys, need a little help. I've been reading too much stuff and just can't make up my mind on this:
Got a 16ft camper trailer ($100) with a single 6 Lug brake drop axle, 15" rims. The axle is centered on it, has brakes, 6 leaf springs mounted as a underslung drop axle..it's the square tube type bent all in one not welded or anything.
So I'm getting another axle to mount to it for dual axle car trailer and I know I need to also mount it underslung also but my question is this:
The 5 Lug trailer axle like most, has only 3 leaf springs so how will this affect the mounting and ride? Do I need to compensate for this and mount the spring hanger on this axle little lower?
Do I mount the 6 leaf pack axle in the front or the back?
Maybe I'm overthinking it as usual but I only want to do it once so here I am. Thanks for the help
You should really have everything match. I would NOT mount two different size axles, leaf packs, or lug pattern wheels.
 
You should really have everything match. I would NOT mount two different size axles, leaf packs, or lug pattern wheels.
^What he said.

You really don't have enough information to go with what you're planning...i.e. spring rates/mechanical design, intended loading, use, axle dimensions, the list goes on. Matched axles would really be the only way to go.

Also, consider if you got a flat tire on a road trip on one axle...then blew another tire on the other axle (this NEVER happens, does it fellas? :lol: oh wait...I've seen me do it too). You'd have to have at least one spare in each lug pattern. Now things are getting out of hand, right? You should just get a pair of matched axles, then set the suspension up properly for the intended use.
 
Well then lol. Thanks for input y'all. I guess I'm a leave it as it is then. Figure out something else.
 
John,
Honest question...what is the structure of the camper frame made of? Camper frames aren't really up to the task of carrying a truck/jeep/buggy weight.
2x3 12g tubing. Tongue section is thicker,
I added all those braces so far. It's just like the other buggy trailer I made but only 1 6k axle rather than 2 3500.
IMG_20190122_145948525.jpg
 
Another honest question:
Are you confident in the material being strong enough to handle the load of carrying a vehicle at speed? Also, what are your thoughts on the placement of the main rails in relation to trailers designed for hauling 4000-5000# cars?
 
Another honest question:
Are you confident in the material being strong enough to handle the load of carrying a vehicle at speed? Also, what are your thoughts on the placement of the main rails in relation to trailers designed for hauling 4000-5000# cars?
well I've looked up a lot of info on camper trailers before I bought the other one and it's a popular thing so that's why I used one for the last trailer (which held up just fine with that heavy buggy on it) so I was figuring this one would too once I added bracing everywhere like I did and made sides for it just like the last trailer. I'm no trailer or metal expert by far but from lots of reading I've done, it works.

I wasn't too crazy about so much work to put into another trailer, i have way too much going on lol, but I guess couldn't pass up $100 trailer that can still be modified and made into some kind of good working trailer.
I'm all ears and actually already kinda scratching the idea of my hauler since the responses here. I mean for $400 I can get another matching 4"drop Axle with the 6leaf springs and rims which would put me at a 500 dollar hauler but even though it worked well on the last one I did, if you guys really say it's not a good idea, than I won't and just sell it as a work/landscape trailer.
 
Make a useable trailer out of it. Sell it. Profits towards a more practical (safe) trailer. You have said so many times how you take your family on trips. Don’t sacrifice their lives by using a trailer not meant to haul what is on it. The last trailer stood up fine but was it ever put in an emergency situation? I hope for your sake and that of your family that a traffic accident or an emergency evasive maneuver is never needed but the time to “test” a home built trailer is not in that situation especially with your family on board the tow rig.
 
Also anything over 2000lbs (iirc) has to have brakes. If the trailer has brakes then it has to have a breakaway system on it to stop it if it dies come loose. Find yourself in an accident with neither of those things and your insurance is likely not to pay up.
 
just for the sake of argument since it has a 6000 pound axle doesn't that technically mean the 2x 3 tubing of the frame can handle 6000 lbs? I'm more trying to learn a little about all this not arguing
 
just for the sake of argument since it has a 6000 pound axle doesn't that technically mean the 2x 3 tubing of the frame can handle 6000 lbs? I'm more trying to learn a little about all this not arguing
There's a ton of information missing again to answer this fully unfortunately... One could argue "yes" or "no", depending on load distribution and dynamics....If you had 6000 lbs evenly distributed across that trailer frame with COG right over the axle, it could possibly work. BUT, (that huge "but" was intentional) if you had a single axle and had 6000 lbs distributed across 2 points (looking from a side view of the trailer) -- for the sake of argument, say you had a 50/50 weight distribution on your rig, so you have 3000 lbs each fore and aft of the axle, distance being whatever your wheelbase of your rig is... You're asking a lot of a 2x3" cross section of tubing with a touch under 1/8" wall thickness. Depending on where your leaf spring mounts are, and looking at what the I-moment of that tubing is...I'd be skeptical. With tandem axles, I'd say "maybe." But it still would sorta give me the willies...and I've been known to overload a trailer a time or two in my day. Just ask @Croatan_Kid :lol: Ain't that right, Jake?
 
Dude....for once, just do it right and don't "Fuller" this

Not being critical. Truly thinking of your safety, and the safety of your family (and every car that will share the road with you hauling)
 
It's
How many lugnuts are on the "6000 pound axle"?
6lug.
And I've already decided as stated to sell it and build it to the buyers needs. I was just trying to learn a little on structure and tubing and what not.
 
It's

6lug.
And I've already decided as stated to sell it and build it to the buyers needs. I was just trying to learn a little on structure and tubing and what not.
You were going to build this for someone else?


Dayum. Just me -- I wouldn't be using that as a starting point for a car/buggy hauler, especially if I were going to be doing the job for someone. Good choice with going a different direction.
 
You were going to build this for someone else?


Dayum. Just me -- I wouldn't be using that as a starting point for a car/buggy hauler, especially if I were going to be doing the job for someone. Good choice with going a different direction.
No was gonna be mine but now selling it as regular trailer as it is just beefed up landscape trailer
 
Marty, let me just say, I see car & landscape trailers, sitting in the weeds, a lot of times. I'm not Near as far out in the Country as your are. What I see, haven't been moved in a long time, so I would think the owner would probably let one go for $400 - $700 dollars. If you want something to work on [seems obvious], grab something like that! Then you can rewire it, rebuild the brakes & bearings, maybe the floor. Have you priced a Decent set of Trailer tires? Time your done, you might have have under $2000 in it. Then you'll see all the Nice, slightly, used ones you could have bought for 1800-2000$. I know you don't have 2K sitting around, but that's the way Projects work!
 
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