Warrior Welding LLC shop.

Saw it on the truck too, but I didn't take the picture.

Actually this was sent to me by @WARRIORWELDING lol.

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Ok shop gadgets. I absolutely love my Fireball squares. I want more....
Hand made tig holder, late night third shift boredom at one of my maintenance jobs.
And the little pointy mosquito third hand. Handy little hold down prop or whatever you can imagine..
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Little of today..the aluminum was tedious. The Bee stands that someone ordered not so much. One goes on a 10k machine for making LS blocks better, Lol! The other holds some sweet nectar making stingers.
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Not exactly shop happenings but I foresee some upgrades to this unit in the future.
It comes from my wife's family.
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From old notes in her dad's way of maintaining info I've dug up that it is supposed to be a 1945 Build.
This should be a 2N from my research. Built between the 9n and more plentiful 8n red and grey tractors.
 
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Lever half way up the tractor on this side is a range selector.
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Lift works power up gravity down. My research shows the pto must be on for the lift to work. The pto is like all the other N series and suffers from allowing implements inertia to drive through the transmission. So a bush hog will push you around when you least expect it.
The left rear fender is the only real damaged sheet metal on the entire unit. The grill is surprisingly straight along with the hood.
 
6 Volt, generator and points are all still on this unit.
The only non stock mod is a push button start on the lower corner of the dash. It is ran to a traditional Ford starter solenoid. Found out in my research about the positive ground wiring. Also may or may not have released some smoke from a battery charger I have to repair now. šŸ˜¬ Well I have it apart and all the smoked stuff is easily fixed with some new wires and connectors.

Fuel bowl was dry. Fuel smelled sour. The last time it ran was several years ago and I pulled it off with my tractor. We went maybe ten feet when Harry popped the clutch and it fired.

Three hours of tinkering on wires I broke for Easter late lunch an hour away at my hometown. Got home did a few farmer type chores and hooked a tow rope to the Kawi mule.


Ten feet and she busted right to life!
 
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Lever half way up the tractor on this side is a range selector.
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Lift works power up gravity down. My research shows the pto must be on for the lift to work. The pto is like all the other N series and suffers from allowing implements inertia to drive through the transmission. So a bush hog will push you around when you least expect it.
The left rear fender is the only real damaged sheet metal on the entire unit. The grill is surprisingly straight along with the hood.


Nice tractor with the sherman Hi-Lo. Get an over run coupler for it and you wont get pushed around.
 
Nice tractor with the sherman Hi-Lo. Get an over run coupler for it and you wont get pushed around.
Do the over run connector. The Sherman is nice. Basically its a low range for the transmission. You ever get bored build me a bumper for my 8n. I need to hang some weights on the front. SN will be on the engine and tell you exactly what year it is.
 
Nice tractor with the sherman Hi-Lo. Get an over run coupler for it and you wont get pushed around.
i was going to say the same thing
It has an odd coupling on the PTO or appears to. I will get some picks when I can fiddle with it.

As for the Sherman Hi-Lo I had read about the possibility and was tickled to see it. I have heard varying opinions on it. I do know this little bugger is pretty high geared. That concerns me.

Any of you folks got real world experience of what this tractor will or want do? I realize I'm not gonna be pulling a square bailer unless it has a pony motor. But a Tiller the width of the rear tires has been a want for a garden unit. This is why I decided to get it going and check it over, I cannot afford a more modern dedicated garden unit right now.

EDIT: Been using a Massey 20c with a loader. It has around 45 HP at the crank and I have found myself doing some pretty aggressive things, like lifting the rear off the ground with loaded tires and a gill box blade hanging off the rear.....:D I know this little guy isn't up to that. But it is stupidly geared and heavy for working in a food bed of sorts after breaking the ground.
 
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Do the over run connector. The Sherman is nice. Basically its a low range for the transmission. You ever get bored build me a bumper for my 8n. I need to hang some weights on the front. SN will be on the engine and tell you exactly what year it is.
Does your unit have a bumper at all? I may have a bumper with a shape I am more used to seeing on these tractors. I will get you a picture.
 
It has an odd coupling on the PTO or appears to. I will get some picks when I can fiddle with it.

As for the Sherman Hi-Lo I had read about the possibility and was tickled to see it. I have heard varying opinions on it. I do know this little bugger is pretty high geared. That concerns me.

Any of you folks got real world experience of what this tractor will or want do? I realize I'm not gonna be pulling a square bailer unless it has a pony motor. But a Tiller the width of the rear tires has been a want for a garden unit. This is why I decided to get it going and check it over, I cannot afford a more modern dedicated garden unit right now.
It may have an over run on it. See if it spins free in one direction. The over run lets the implement spin and the tractor stop. It acts like a ratchet. I can't answer what it will do with anything much except for subsoilers and box blades. Needless to say mine has impressed the shit out of me. As for the tiller people say you can't use one on these with out the sherman. They say the tractor doesn't go slow to till good with the sherman it does. So I'd roll the dice since you have one.
Does your unit have a bumper at all? I may have a bumper with a shape I am more used to seeing on these tractors. I will get you a picture.
No no bumper at all. I Like what is on the front of yours. Looks easy to hang weights on. Your tires might be filled if they are its a water calcium mix likely and is nasty on metal. I bet the tires on mine are 300 lbs or more.
 
It has an odd coupling on the PTO or appears to. I will get some picks when I can fiddle with it.

As for the Sherman Hi-Lo I had read about the possibility and was tickled to see it. I have heard varying opinions on it. I do know this little bugger is pretty high geared. That concerns me.

Any of you folks got real world experience of what this tractor will or want do? I realize I'm not gonna be pulling a square bailer unless it has a pony motor. But a Tiller the width of the rear tires has been a want for a garden unit. This is why I decided to get it going and check it over, I cannot afford a more modern dedicated garden unit right now.

EDIT: Been using a Massey 20c with a loader. It has around 45 HP at the crank and I have found myself doing some pretty aggressive things, like lifting the rear off the ground with loaded tires and a gill box blade hanging off the rear.....:D I know this little guy isn't up to that. But it is stupidly geared and heavy for working in a food bed of sorts after breaking the ground.


Your hi-lo MAY let you use a PTO tiller, but these ol girls are geared too high for most of the PTO tillers.

I use mine mostly as something to lean against...... But I have used these before (we had a 2N, 8N, and a TO-30 with a hi-lo on the farm) for bush hogging, plowing, discing, turning, scraping, skidding, and putting out hay. Biggest complaints are no live PTO, geared high, and to be as small as they are they suck at turning.
 
Your hi-lo MAY let you use a PTO tiller, but these ol girls are geared too high for most of the PTO tillers.

I use mine mostly as something to lean against...... But I have used these before (we had a 2N, 8N, and a TO-30 with a hi-lo on the farm) for bush hogging, plowing, discing, turning, scraping, skidding, and putting out hay. Biggest complaints are no live PTO, geared high, and to be as small as they are they suck at turning.
A lot of wisdom here. My Massey 35 outperforms my dads 8N in every way, and is almost the same size. But he still loves his 8N and will never get rid of it.
 
A lot of wisdom here. My Massey 35 outperforms my dads 8N in every way, and is almost the same size. But he still loves his 8N and will never get rid of it.

Yea, our 35 runs laps around the old fords. But they are cheap to maintain and do put in hard days work. Not gonna say Id never sell my 8N, but somebody would have to pay me enough to buy two more!
 
Clyde stretching on the warm sun. Dragging out some old iron for a fella to borrow for mock up purposes.
Snowfighter 60.
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Been doin dirt toy things from December into New Year's.
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First real work of 2024

Trailer work that I got a feller ready for another year. Repeat customer since I fixed his axle bracket when this unit was new a decade ago.
Trailer get used everyday but Sunday year round.
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Corner got hit and the rear door frame was split out all the way around. If the door wasn't in the frame I could push the opening 6 inches out of square with little effort.
 
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This one made me scratch my head and ask how.
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Reminds me of that insane screen saver. Was a jungle gym to work in.
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I guess I'm in that red group. Lol.
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Old dump truck love. Removing the asphalt under the skirt sucked. It was torn and in the shape of a crude v. Choose a more round reinforced design . He had some dented areas and is polishing the truck up some for a coat of paint.

Getting ready to weld on a gas station man hole......for the record I refused to do it over the tank like suggested by the local fixer.....
 

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Last mention of dirt activities. I'm sorta proud of this one. It was to be a patch.....they still running it.
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The whole time it was a blessing of over cast skies. Broke out the rain prep and it managed to rain a little. Was blessed it was not a 100 degree day. Middle of a job site and all the shade had been pushed over, šŸ˜”
 
Been spending a day piddling and trying to find room in the shop, lol.
Actually just needing a deep reset but gotta start somewhere.
Every fabricator needs a odds and ends drawer. If you've done any work to amount to much you know the worth of this stuff.
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Fabbed a tray out of scrap.
Used KISS to build supports that keep it movable and not falling on my toes.
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Hacked up a shelf that was too shallow to work with. Makes me want to revisit and mod some more. I think my table has evolved more than anything else in my shop.
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Looks cleaner than a shelf I have to stoop over to dig through.....found gadgets I forgot I made when I did this mod.
 
Latest effort is consolidating space by moving boxes of stuff around. This poor matco unit has seen better days.
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The lid was missing when I got it. It was well sorted with little trays and do dads. I added the more then adequate casters because it was so over loaded. This didn't help the slides on one large tray. Anybody who wants it can have it minus the casters.
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Moved my hammer storage and tig rod over to this unit to restart overloading the next box. It will get a subframe for the casters on the matco box.
 
I'm partial to this old guy. Born the same year as me and was my father's. He was a Chrysler dealer tech for a while before eventually working for Ford for many years as a service writer then service manager.
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It's a 1976 SnapOn.....guess it's paid for! šŸ˜‚. I have that years tool catalogue somewhere. I hate I cannot locate it yet for this thread.
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Do dad holders from the other box.
Lower box is an old Craftsman.
Neither are specially nice or robust. Fits me.
 
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Little victories.....these had some sort of epoxy or such on the thread. Some form of white powder was what was left.
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One was near flush. Weld a washer larger than your bolt/stud what ever. Since it is flush you stand a much better chance getting good penetration on a washer. Weld it hot! After this weld your nut of choice to said washer. I choose to also fill up the nut. I could tell these studs ran deep from the cast housing shape.
While very hot....in this case glowing bump it loose. If it moves stop immediately and hose down with some of your favorite nut busting fluid. If it doesn't move use fluid and allow to cool. I found stuff galls up less without all the heat soaking in and causing parent material to swell. So no matter what I'll let a part chill before attempting full turns or removal.
 
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