Torque convertors?!?

BUCKETOBOLTS

BUCKETOBOLTS

Member
Joined
May 4, 2005
Location
Faith, NC
OK I finished up swapping my NP435 for a C4. I started out pulling the NP to send the main shaft out to have it shortened and resplined for a 203 doubler. So I had to have some sort of back up plan so my rig would not be down for too long. I built a C4 for duty in my Early Bronco. A pretty straight forward swap.

Now for the I'm not so certain deal. I let a buddy talk me into a step up from stock convertor. The stall is supposed to be from 1600-1800. And when you flash it from an idle it does about 1800-2000 on my cheapo tach. My peev is that when I cruise at 2200 or so and stomp the throttle (without the detent connected) the convertor will flash to 3K. It may just be this brand of convertor. I believe it is going to be too loose to work on the trail. My engine makes a lot of torque down low and I think it is blowing threw the convertor.
 
What brand/model converter is it? Sounds like its more of a racing converter than a offroad/towing. The idle 1800 isnt too bad, but the high rpm flash will turn the throttle into more of an on/off button and loose the low end torque you say your engine has.

Grab a stock mustang c4 converter. Auto parts store should have em for around $135.
 
Why would anyone want a stall converter in an offroad rig?
 
junkman said:
Why would anyone want a stall converter in an offroad rig?
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Well, for one, lot's of folks running 4 bangers that require them to "spool up" a bit to make any power and IIRC, many of the buggies (at least what I'm seeing on POR) are running stall convertors to achieve this...

IMO, it doesn't make sense to run one in a I6 or V8... unless they say KeithBlack! :D
 
"Stall converters?" WTF is that supposed to mean?

All TCs have a stall speed. The "true" stall of the converter will seem to vary depending on the gearing in the vehicle, since brake stall numbers will decrease as the motor has more torque to break the tires or overpower the brakes.

But they all have a stall speed.
 
This convertor is an ACC "Boss Hog".

I've had B&M's, TCI's, and even a GER. They are all different even though they may be advertised as the same. I swapped out a $400 TCI for a $200 GER in my '83 GT and picked up .500 in the 1/8th. They were both advertised as 3800-4200. With the engine idling at 1000rpm I could feel the TCI when I put the trans in gear, the GER was "looser" down low. Then when I would foot-brake it and let it hit the stall speed the GER was solid, the TCI seemed mushy. Then when I used the transbrake it was like a freight train ran into the back of you. This convertor feels like the old TCI I had. I just doesn't seem to couple tight enough. I talked with the guy that owns the company and he said if it didn't suit me, I can send it back to him in AL and he'd tighten it up.
 
saf-t scissors said:
The "true" stall of the converter will seem to vary depending on the gearing in the vehicle, since brake stall numbers will decrease as the motor has more torque to break the tires or overpower the brakes.
Click to expand...

How does 'true' stall depend on axle gearing? The only way to measure true stall is with a trans brake and the driveshaft not spinning.
 
Right, that's why I said it *seems* to change. Brake stall will drop lower than true stall as the axle gears (or tcase gears) get lower. The actual measured stall of the converter is still the same, but it behaves differently in the vehicle than that number would have you believe.
 
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