Resurrection 2dr

What do the rollers look like on the bearings? Normally it’s a wider wear pattern than that.

Edit:I wouldn’t reuse them if it were me.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
What do the rollers look like on the bearings? Normally it’s a wider wear pattern than that.

Edit:I wouldn’t reuse them if it were me.
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Yea, i scrapped them and started over. The pattern was wide then narrow like the carrier was walking or something.
 
So the rust issues are really getting on my nerves so i found a solution to the problem today.
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What are the issues I'm going to have switching from 97 5spd into the 98 2wd auto chassis? I plan on gutting the 98 and transferring all of my parts from the 97 into it. I know there are some wiring differences in the 2 years (coil pack for one) and probably the ecm since I'm switching from auto to manual.
 
I converted an auto 96 xj to 4wd and didn't change a thing with the computer. Everything functions fine. I never bothered to hook up the 4wd light, it hasn't bothered me. Other than that, you'd never know the difference.
 
NCJeeplover said:
I converted an auto 96 xj to 4wd and didn't change a thing with the computer. Everything functions fine. I never bothered to hook up the 4wd light, it hasn't bothered me. Other than that, you'd never know the difference.
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From the reading I've done i think changing from auto to manual will be the bigger job. My main concern is marrying the 97 wiring to the 98. 97 is a little but of a bastard in the wiring department. The ecm is my biggest unknown
 
GotWood said:
From the reading I've done i think changing from auto to manual will be the bigger job. My main concern is marrying the 97 wiring to the 98. 97 is a little but of a bastard in the wiring department. The ecm is my biggest unknown
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97 and 98 are both dist motors IIRC. Coil pack came in 99 or 00. The auto computer will probably not run the manual motor. Thinking it will be looking for auto inputs. If you are swapping from a manual into an auto body then you should be able to swap peddle assembly, computer and everything from the manual into the auto and it work fine. Manual computer should hook right in the auto chassis. If I'm understanding what you are doing. When you starting the swap?
 
ghost said:
97 and 98 are both dist motors IIRC. Coil pack came in 99 or 00. The auto computer will probably not run the manual motor. Thinking it will be looking for auto inputs. If you are swapping from a manual into an auto body then you should be able to swap peddle assembly, computer and everything from the manual into the auto and it work fine. Manual computer should hook right in the auto chassis. If I'm understanding what you are doing. When you starting the swap?
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Swap will start as soon as I can get deemed non-esential! I'll strip the new jeep first and then start transplanting from the old. I know there are some wiring difference between 97-98 (coil plug for sure) but that would be minor. I hope the computer is the same but worse case I could transfer all wiring.
 
And so it begins. Pulled the motor/trans today. Still a lot of disassembly on the new body before i start taking parts off of the original.
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The 98 has a couple differences, mainly connectors and pin outs. The oil pressure sensor is slightly different, and a few other things too but I can’t remember. Pretty sure the evap emissions system is completely different for 98-99. 96-97 had the same evap layout which was simpler and doesn't have a leak detection pump. They are both distributor engines. 2000 was the first year of coil on plug.

There are a few ways that I would do the swap. One is to use the 98 body harness and 97 fuel injection harness with your drivetrain and the manual PCM. This will require wiring the reverse lights and clutch switch if you want it. The tcase connections will have to be added. I think this will work if the connections for the FI harness to connect to the body harness are the same from 97-98. You may have to do some trickery with the evap stuff to get it to work without a check engine light.

The other option is to swap the whole wiring harness under the hood of the 97 into the 98. This includes the underhood body harness and PDC. This may cause issues with inspection because the evap layout is different from the 98 diagram on the firewall.

You can also run your drivetrain with all of the 98 wiring and auto pcm but will have to leave the neutral safety switch and tcm installed and left in neutral to start the Jeep. This is quick and dirty and it will for sure at least run the engine. This may cause a check engine light because of the missing trans speed inputs. Evap should work as is because the computer doesn’t know the difference.

Also, does your old shell have power windows? I’d be interested in the doors and possibly the interior panels depending on the color.
 
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Buddy_Holly said:
The 98 has a couple differences, mainly connectors and pin outs. The oil pressure sensor is slightly different, and a few other things too but I can’t remember. Pretty sure the evap emissions system is completely different for 98-99. 96-97 had the same evap layout which was simpler and doesn't have a leak detection pump. They are both distributor engines. 2000 was the first year of coil on plug.

There are a few ways that I would do the swap. One is to use the 98 body harness and 97 fuel injection harness with your drivetrain and the manual PCM. This will require wiring the reverse lights and clutch switch if you want it. The tcase connections will have to be added. I think this will work if the connections for the FI harness to connect to the body harness are the same from 97-98. You may have to do some trickery with the evap stuff to get it to work without a check engine light.

The other option is to swap the whole wiring harness under the hood of the 97 into the 98. This includes the underhood body harness and PDC. This may cause issues with inspection because the evap layout is different from the 98 diagram on the firewall.

You can also run your drivetrain with all of the 98 wiring and auto pcm but will have to leave the neutral safety switch and tcm installed and left in neutral to start the Jeep. This is quick and dirty and it will for sure at least run the engine. This may cause a check engine light because of the missing trans speed inputs. Evap should work as is because the computer doesn’t know the difference.

Also, does your old shell have power windows? I’d be interested in the doors and possibly the interior panels depending on the color.
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Well.....
I'm guessing I'm going to swap the wiring over so everything works properly. I never thought about the evap system being different, may have to swap out too i guess. As for the scrap pile, the doors are manual and grey.
 
Send me a pm when you’re ready to part it. At the very least I’d be interested in the doors for parts. Main thing I need are the window channels for the doors. Mine are folded over so the windows don’t fully seal when you roll them up.
 
Did a little cleaning in the engine bay and started pulling the interior. Of course someone has been playing with the wiring. @Jody Treadway why/what is this? The wire running down the dash was not hooked to anything. This is on the back side of the instrument cluster.
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Ok, here's a curve ball. Mfg date is 5/98 but the HVAC box is cable actuated. Could this thing have double bastard 97/98 wiring?
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Got most of the interior gutted. I pulled the injector wiring harness, will use the one from the 97 model. Do i need to pull and change the harness that goes through the firewall? It has the plugs for the computer and transmission, goes through the firewall in about 4 different places.
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What exactly is this box?
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Will it be auto or manual? I thought I saw yours was a manual and you are swapping from your because of rust.
 
ghost said:
Will it be auto or manual? I thought I saw yours was a manual and you are swapping from your because of rust.
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It will be manual. I'm basically just swapping bodies, using all of my stuff from the polls one.
 
ghost said:
I'd definitely delete the auto computer and stuff I could.
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Agreed. At this point I've got this thing so far apart I'm going to swap everything except the body harness. Basically just keeping the sheet metal.
 
Stage 2 has begun. Got the motor/trans/t-case removed from the original XJ. Will start cutting fenders and adding subframe stiffners to the new body this week.
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Been working on my days off. Finally started rebuilding instead of taking apart. Pulled the rear end out off new jeep and replaced the bushings from the original jeep and reinstalled. Also got the frame stiffners welded in and will start the front suspension next week.
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