Purple YJ Build

[NCJeeplover]

NWF has a different crawl box for the 205 that is significantly stronger and sorter.

EcoBox-205 Billet Planetary Doubler Case

Current EcoBox-205 Lead Time is 12 Weeks Bringing the quality and craftsmanship of the original, the BlackBox-Eco was designed for the 4x4’er on a budget. While retaining the originals technology, quality and durability, the Eco is minimized to reduce cost. Designed to be a DIY builder kit...

northwestfab.com

 

[1stgenxxx]

Yea but he trying to be a HERO

 

[Van-go]

NWF has a different crawl box for the 205 that is significantly stronger and sorter.

EcoBox-205 Billet Planetary Doubler Case

Current EcoBox-205 Lead Time is 12 Weeks Bringing the quality and craftsmanship of the original, the BlackBox-Eco was designed for the 4x4’er on a budget. While retaining the originals technology, quality and durability, the Eco is minimized to reduce cost. Designed to be a DIY builder kit...

northwestfab.com

I ordered that new one back in January.
It’s gonna be like 2 inches too long still.
I’ve also got another ford 205 in the shop so I’ll have 2 complete 205/under drives for sale soon.
Should be able to pay for a Hero or Atlas with the funds from them….

Depends on your use I guess.

Race case holds to 700hp BKOR bouncers.
I haven't broken my trail case and I've been trying but I only have 300hp.

Think about all the guys with an Atlas from before they made Race versions. Plenty are still driving around happily.

You make a valid point. Trail series with shipping etc is like $3k.
Hero is $3500.
Now I gotta make a decision

 

[Bebop]

You make a valid point. Trail series with shipping etc is like $3k.
Hero is $3500.
Now I gotta make a decision

Hero you gotta add shipping etc.

Atlas you can re-use your flanges/yokes from the NP205 too (provided that it has the taper in the front, I learned that from NC4x4 after I killed an Atlas housing like a dumbass).

Also, not sure the new owners of the Hero brand are taking orders at the moment. Last time I checked, they weren't. Make sure not to buy from TWF, he doesn't own the Hero brand and has been taking people's money. Advance is a solid company to deal with, albeit the Atlas cases are very behind at the moment. BKOR has a good supply of them since they buy a fixed amount periodically.

Given that you're building a Goatbuilt car that was designed around an Atlas, I'd have the decision made already.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

If you get an atlas go through Rusty’s or some other distributor with free shipping, advanced adapters will put you in the same line factory direct, but the shipping is a few hundred

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

I ordered one July 14 and got it dec 20 last year which was 1 week past the quoted leadtime

 

[Van-go]

I ordered one July 14 and got it dec 20 last year which was 1 week past the quoted leadtime

Yeahhh I need to go ahead and pull the trigger. It’s not gonna get any better

 

[Van-go]

Shout out to Offroad anonymous
Jacob designed and made me a flat top truss. He only had the low profile one designed when I called.

 

[Van-go]

Truss is pretty much welded on. Starting to mock up front axle. I was planning to run the lowers parallel with the ground or pointed slightly up from chassis to axle. Not gonna happen if I want to get 11in of separation between uppers and lowers.

6 inches or so from truss to frame. Upper link hits motor mount when you raise upper link 7inches from top of axle.
Anyone have any advice?

 

[marty79]

nice work dude, love the "keg stand" LMBO

 

[Van-go]

nice work dude, love the "keg stand" LMBO

I’m a fan of free. Been using them for years

 

[BigSouth]

Anyone have any advice?

More buggy, less Jeep…

Just kidding, it looks like you’ve got the engine sitting pretty far rearward. Is that part set in stone? Looks like if you brought the engine back towards the front, your engine mounts would travel higher on that frame rail and net you more up travel. Game of compromises…

 

[Van-go]

More buggy, less Jeep…

Just kidding, it looks like you’ve got the engine sitting pretty far rearward. Is that part set in stone? Looks like if you brought the engine back towards the front, your engine mounts would travel higher on that frame rail and net you more up travel. Game of compromises…

They are pretty much set in stone. That’s the sucky part about building a kit. They are made to go where they go. It may not be perfect but I guarantee I’ll have it sitting lower than the one that goat built put together.

 

[Bebop]

Truss is pretty much welded on. Starting to mock up front axle. I was planning to run the lowers parallel with the ground or pointed slightly up from chassis to axle. Not gonna happen if I want to get 11in of separation between uppers and lowers.
6 inches or so from truss to frame. Upper link hits motor mount when you raise upper link 7inches from top of axle.
Anyone have any advice?

Yeah, run less separation.

Why aren't you happy with how Goatbuilt set theirs up ? Seems to me that Drew knows what he's doing.

 

[jcramsey]

I’m a fan of free. Been using them for years View attachment 375188

I like your style.

 

[Van-go]

Yeah, run less separation.

Why aren't you happy with how Goatbuilt set theirs up ? Seems to me that Drew knows what he's doing.

Not saying anything bad about Drew. He was very helpful with everything.
It sits really high.
It’s built around a Jeep body, so I’m sure it limited him some.
I ordered half of the chassis for that reason. I want to go lower.
Upper links in rear hit the rear bar and limit up travel unless you jack the whole chassis up.

 

[Bebop]

I'm not sure that taking a chassis built a certain way, to change it to be built another way is gonna be the easiest way.
You're headed towards more problems I feel.

Edit : I realize you didn't ask for my opinion but for advice in order to solve your link separation issue. My buggy has A LOT less than 11" of separation. You'll be ok reducing that.

 

[Van-go]

I'm not sure that taking a chassis built a certain way, to change it to be built another way is gonna be the easiest way.
You're headed towards more problems I feel.

Edit : I realize you didn't ask for my opinion but for advice in order to solve your link separation issue. My buggy has A LOT less than 11" of separation. You'll be ok reducing that.

I don’t mind if you share your opinion. I agree with you mostly.
I knew I’d have some opportunities to work through changing it up, but is still easier than building off a stock Jeep frame.

How little is too little separation? lol I think I’m at like 8in IIRC

 

[Bebop]

It has to deal with geometry.
This number doesn't mean much on its own. You'd have to run numbers and see what the impact is.

 

[paradisePWoffrd]

Can you lower the lower link mount on the axle? That would increase separation, and they are likely close enough to the tire that it wont hurt clearance much. As Enzo said, the overall geometry is at play as you move things around.

 

[Chris_Keziah]

It has to deal with geometry.
This number doesn't mean much on its own. You'd have to run numbers and see what the impact is.

This all the way, people get hung on separation numbers way too much rather than actual geometry numbers. The separation numbers are/were more of guideline imo before the link calc became easily accessible.

@Van-go I can swing by at some point and brainstorm some link mounting if you'd like. Also wonder if you need some bent upper links with bushings or some anti-wobble joints on the frame side.

 

[Van-go]

This all the way, people get hung on separation numbers way too much rather than actual geometry numbers. The separation numbers are/were more of guideline imo before the link calc became easily accessible.

@Van-go I can swing by at some point and brainstorm some link mounting if you'd like. Also wonder if you need some bent upper links with bushings or some anti-wobble joints on the frame side.

Yeah I am sort of illiterate with this stuff. Come on over whenever. Fridge is always full of beer

 

[Van-go]

Can you lower the lower link mount on the axle? That would increase separation, and they are likely close enough to the tire that it wont hurt clearance much. As Enzo said, the overall geometry is at play as you move things around.

Yeah I was trying to mount it a little higher on axle to keep links more parallel to ground.

 

[Bebop]

You could change the motor mounts too

 

[Van-go]

You could change the motor mounts too

Haha I’m not changing anything except ride height up front. Just trying to keep my lowers from pointing down to axle to help with shooting up ledges.
I was looking through your build thread. Looks like you’ve got your lower axle side brackets mounted how I wanted to. (Above axle tube) You mind getting some better pictures for me to look at?

Edit: yes I will plug numbers into a calculator I see your axle on page one now…