Now for something really different

Buffy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Location
Burlington, NC
Last summer I was cruising Crackslist and came across an interesting truck. I was tempted to buy it but was abled to resist it..... at first. The price kept coming down and it kept popping up in my searches screaming buy me. Well I bought it and this is going to be my build thread.

Here is said truck:

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It was originally a diesel truck but the previous owner had put a Chevy 6.0 and 4L80 trans in it. So I went out and got me a 6.0 had it refreshed with a new cam, shaved the heads, etc... So this is what will be motivating my truck:

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My original plan was to drop in the motor and have fun. But when we took the bed off we realized just how bad the frame work was not to mention the wheel base was only 79". That seemed a bit sketchy so plans were made to stretch the frame.
 
So off to Marsh trucks in Siler City for some parts. This is what we came home with:

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Here we are getting the frame leveled and marking where we want to cut the frame:

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The original truck is a 1995 Chevy TiltMaster 4500 diesel 2wd. The new frame is a 2007 TiltMaster 6.0 gas 2wd chassis. We've just about picked the doaner clean of parts.

We leveled the cab and broke out the instruments of destruction...... torch, grinder, sawzall.....

At this point we are all in....

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The one thing the sharp eye my catch is the original frame tapered in while the new frame was straight all the way. We had to come up with a was to spread the frame rails out straight. We built a jig and slipped it around the frame and made some relief cuts. Fired up the rosebud torch, port-o-power and a BFH and brought everything into spec.

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The new frame is still a tad wider and taller than the original frame. I headed down to Alro Steel and picked up some 3/8 plate to kae a sleeve to take up the space and add extra strength to the splice. That plus copious amounts of grade 8 bolts to help out with the welds. Can't be too careful!

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And finally we have a truck again!

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This catches everyone up on where the project is at the moment. We've been working on it for several months now. The up coming to dos are shock towers, modifying the front cross member to accommodate the front axle, and fabing up the AC system. To fill up the void I created by extending the wheel base I plan on splicing together a bed and cab to make a tool box area between the 8 ft bed and the cab. This section will house the computer, relays, etc for the engine and fuel systems and a couple batteries. I plan on having a top build on that section so it really does look like a tool box. May have to get some help from some board members on that one. I also want a off road bumper made that will house a 12K winch.
 
When will we see this on the trails??

Nice work! That thing is going to be sweet!:beer:
 
Yep...this is cool as shit and now I want one too! Carry on.
 
Little more progress today. We got the shock towers relocated. Now I can order some front shocks!

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Here is a picture for scale. Check out the difference between the original Dana 60 steering link to the TiltMaster's:

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Was the front spring spacing off any or did the axle bolt right up?
 
This thing will be sweet!
 
Was the front spring spacing off any or did the axle bolt right up?

The springs had to me moved in about 1 inch on both sides. Pretty close to plug and play. I cheated the axle to the passenger side maybe an inch or less to give extra room for axle to oil pan clearance. Nobody would ever notice if I didn’t mention it. Where possible I’ve been using factory components so one may wonder if it really came that way originally.:cool:
 
That's the way to do it! As close to factory as possible.
 
heck yes!
 
Small update....

We are rebuilding the NP241C transfer case and installing a JB Conversions SYE kit. Hope to have that wrapped up Thursday evening so we can look a figuring driveshaft lengths and rear pinion angles. Also ordered the front shocks since the towers are now relocated. Going to go with Bilstein 5125 shocks. Once I get the rear pinion set I will order the rears.
 
If you didn't already know, you can use NP205 output yokes if you want to run something like 1410 u joints, you'll just need to toss it in a mill or lathe and shorten it about 1/4" and re-bevel the end of it.
 
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