New Jeep Project

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by yager, Jan 25, 2010.

  1. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    Jeep Project

    20180516_191818.jpg

    20171112_130647.jpg
    Now

    Jeep
    • Jeep - 1991-ish Wrangler
    • Engine - 2.2 Ecotec (GM) from 2003 ish (Cavalier)
    • Transmission - R150/AX15
    • Transfer Case - Toyota Gear Case
    • Rear Axle - 2003 Toyota E-locker Rear 8", 60.5 length
    • Front Axle - Ruffstuff 8" Toyota, lengthening 6" on the long side

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    If you click on a MAIN topic it will take you to where it begins, in my thread.
    .
    Like wise if you click on a SUB topic, it will take you to where that specific topic is, in my thread.


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    Engine - 2.2l GM Ecotec N/A
    Transmission
    R150/AX15
    The main chunk is R150 with a AX15 input shaft and a throw out bearing, i massage the internal a bit. Sky/Solstice Round part in the front (shit.......) [Bell-housing]​

    T-case
    Toyota Transfer Case (insert # R??) with a 4.7 gears.
    After a long time ( 2 years off) i decided that i want a bottom load or a top load t-case.
    So i made one. i am very please with it​

    Front axle
    ARP studs in the knuckle, hold the high steering arms, on.
    Trunnion Bearing Eliminator Kit - - TrailGear, I got rid of the bearings on both sides.
    Birfields and shafts = +6 on the long side. TrailGear (purchase from ECGS, plug for you Chase)
    Knuckle ball wipes seals - TrailGear (yes i know i said TrailGear three times)
    Brakes - Vented rotors and calipers.
    Arms - high steering arm, just like everybody out there who has one. They work.
    Locking Hubs - Ya, I have done anything with the locking hubs, but plan on 5/16" bolts, or the millimeter stuff...
    Spindle nut - Ya i made my own, take IFS nuts and grind off the part that stick up (click on "Spindle Nut")
    Both Axles - Front/Rear Air Locker - Click Here
    Oh ya....hehe.....
    I can assure you this much, you can get the shaft for the accurwaiter (round pin) with out taking the chunk out, on the front axle.
    I did this task 5 times. 1st is fluke, 2nd accident..... 5th time I mented that way........
    By tipping it down, (pinion points down) the punching out the round spring steel (i forget the name of it) once out you can slide large pin out to hole.
    With that pin, you have to machine it. (more on this later)

    A/C compressor - Click Here
    I got this off of ebay, the cheapest one i could find :flipoff2: cause that me....
    I took it apart and machine the input / output ports, out so they could take a AN fitting.
    I ended up taking the entire thing apart, the get to the flange that made it a 'wobble' plate compressor.
    I took the spring out and replace it with a spacer, now it pump air.
    Steering
    Not much here, only that i have 7/8 heim joints and a fine thread bolt, holding it.
    The tierod ends do have a (thing) to make it move up and down further.​

    Frame
    Custom, 2 x 4 x .188 box steel.​

    Gas Tank
    ahh, where to begging... In my humble opinion, the aluminum tank is fine, but you have to make sure that it is mounted properly. So, I made a small frame for the tank. The fame is then mounted on bushings (shock bushing) to it. Then I had to mount it to the gas tank itself. I used two straps that goes around the top and mount at the bottom. I was having a problem with find a low cost solution the separate the two metals... I found that the black stuff work awesome. I can get a roll from Speedway relatively cheep. They call it, "high density polyethylene plastic". It bends pretty well too.​

    Fuel System
    (aka Mounting a TJ fuel pump ) I bought this on ebay, it was OK, they have deceptive pictures, where they don't show you everything. If it were me i would make the outer edge at least 1/2" bigger. (1/2" what do you mean ? ) Well by being 1/2" smaller they can fit in to a smaller envelope. Ya, It that simple....... Again it not a big deal for me, as i am doing all myself.​

    Exhausts - Ya needed a muffler of some sorts. I am placing it in the back.

    O2 sensor - This is the #2 sensor, it ran fine with out it, but to get an inspection, i need one.

    So much stroke is here..... :homer: oh well, can only laugh



    The Beginning

    Picked them up today. More/less a bunch of parts to put together. More details when I get to it..

    Basically be building the gunmetal blue TJ and using the Green one for parts. Green one was hit on driver side and frame is bent a bit etc.. Will be selling off unneeded parts, axles etc..


    20100125-TJ 009.jpg

    20100125-TJ 011.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 24, 2018
  2. awheelterd

    awheelterd Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2007
    Location:
    johnston co./ ncsu
    :lol:
     
  3. BRUISER

    BRUISER silent.. but deadly Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    what gears are in the axles?
     
  4. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    3.55s and the 235s have ~25% tread..... but i might need those :)

    keep laughing fuckers ! :flipoff2:
     
  5. 81K5GUY

    81K5GUY Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2006
    Location:
    Laurinburg , NC
    Nice cant wait for the buildup,whats the plans?
     
  6. shawn

    shawn running dog lackey of the oppressor class Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Week one: Start selling off unneeded parts, initial mockup for proof of concept and to identify possible issues

    Week two: rework concept based on initial mockup, begin shopping for additional parts

    Week three: scrap initial concept, mock up version 2.0, try to sell the parts purchased last week, shop for new 2.0 parts

    Week four: stumble upon a cheap X90 tub, put TJ project up for sale



    :flipoff2:
     
  7. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    maybe I should hang onto the D35/D30 that might be the only way I get on the trail :D
     
  8. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC

    an X90 on 33's or 35's would be cool.
     
  9. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    Installed a few of the 1" body lift pucks off the green jeep to space the body where it will end up.

    Chop here, cut there... Pulled the front up a little bit to make room to push the front out ~4" and add some room for the hydro steering junk, and keep it riding low..

    Will be removing front cross tube to drop the winch tray down in.


    20100131-TJ-Front-Frame 006.jpg

    20100131-TJ-Front-Frame 008.jpg
     
  10. Tacoma747

    Tacoma747 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2005
    Location:
    Winston-Salem
    I think you should build a mid engine w/ a Chevy engine/transaxle. Doubt you've thought of that one yet, just tossin out ideas :D
     
  11. foreman1063

    foreman1063 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    I like the raised front frame section Mike. I think that's what I'll need to do.
     
  12. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    John - I kept measurements of the cuts so it would be quick to duplicate.
     
  13. foreman1063

    foreman1063 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    Cool, I'll stop by and take a look soon.
     
  14. foreman1063

    foreman1063 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    You going to run a shorter radiator or try and move the stocker up a bit? If I don't do something to mine the ram will destroy the radiator.
     
  15. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    dono, I have a beat up, stock TJ radiator I got with the engine to use for fitment.. I know it sticks down normally so now it will hang out an extra few inches.

    I have a few options with the 4cyl that you may not have with the 6cyl.
    If the stock unit looks ok in the original location, I can make a boxed skid for it where it sticks down.. Plus I'll have some room to tip it in or out etc..

    Otherwise I have an aftermarket (speedway) radiator 22wx19h (overall) picked out that will fit in the stock cutout opening in the grill shell.

    I'd like to use the stock one if possible, keeps any parts replacements simpler.
     
  16. getstucksome

    getstucksome Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte/Mt. Holly area
    If you did an electric fan (i'm assuming you probably will?) you could move/tilt the radiator easily. I'm running a taurus fan on my 2.5 and have a ton of room between the radiator/motor. just a thought.
     
  17. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    quick update:
    Triangulated uppers both front and rear. Based on my initial swag. 26" lowers 20" uppers.

    I still doing some 4link math homework. But with the 20" uppers and the front pushed out the upper frame link mounts sit in front of the FW. That gives me the ability to set the AS from -200 to +100 farily easily.. So now I'm evaluating those options..

    Currently I'm mounting my full hydro ram stuff onto the front axle.. No real road blocks just taking my time. Im using a 8" ram, and based on my measurements I can get 7" of travel with the steering stops removed. BUT using the 8" ram on the sorta narrow toy axle has the ram mount tight to the front of the pumpkin. So I'm stewing on that some..
    - The ram it self fits I just loose the ability for a clean/simple mount using the supplied hardware, and need to notch out some of the pumpkin.
    - Since I only need 7" travel I will slide/offset the ram .5" and run a 1" spacer on the long side.
    - My goal in doing this is to better determine how much chassis room I have to work with knowing the hydro stuff sits pretty high. Already looks like I will have to do a notch in the frame rail for more stuff.
    - Radiator hangs down too low. I used old beat up TJ rad. to verify that. I will likly use an aftermarket alum. unit.. that fits well in/near the stock grill area.
    - Once I know a relative front axle position I can hang the motor in there in the location I'd like to put it. Then mock up the uppers to check for clearance. This part will require several passes to find a good spot for everything..

    Plugging away little by little...


    More recent pic with some more junk set in place.

    20100131-TJ-Front-Frame 015.jpg
     
  18. Demon offroad

    Demon offroad Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2007
    Location:
    Kinston, N.C.
    Is that a house window unit in the back door of the van?
     
  19. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    why yes it is :) Works great.. smallest low amp unit i could find. 5500btu , my gen runs at 1/2 speed and can go 8+ hrs with it running...

    Install thread: http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67132&highlight=g3500

    few other threads on my van..
    http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48429&highlight=g3500

    http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49339&highlight=g3500

    http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55384&highlight=g3500
     
  20. Demon offroad

    Demon offroad Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2007
    Location:
    Kinston, N.C.
    That's cool. I like the van.
     
  21. YotaOFFroad27

    YotaOFFroad27 Active Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2009
    Location:
    Oxford
    nice build, now hurry up and finish it! :popcorn:
     
  22. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    ya ya :) I got some IFS wheel hubs from FUNRunner so I can hopefully get the front better situated.

    I got the hydro mount tacked on last weekend along with the tie-rod links. So now I can see how that fits in under the frame.

    After helping Forman with his front frame tweak I liked how we did his (2nd time charm) so I tweaked mine a little(less). Luckily I had only tacked it back together. I now have ~1/2" under the grill/radiator support. I cut down the rubber bushing each side with hack saw. Much nicer now.

    I have ballistic joints and more frame brackets coming in. I will mock up the links with some tubing I have and am planning to order some of those swank heat treated chrmo shafts. 2"x .25 I won't be running super long links I figured the forget about it link strength with the Ballistic joints will eliminate the need for any spares etc..

    Next up is to get the (green) parts TJ off the trailer and moved to where I can start stripping it down. Need to pull dash/harness etc. I will be selling the tub and frame from that one (no title). So if your interested let me know, i'll keep you in mind when I get to that point.

    Finally got my Dirty30 axles and 4.7 gears from chase... Not really needed right now but I got them under his super New Years blow out sale. Be nice to have em handy when I swap the trans input and have it apart anyway...
     
  23. foreman1063

    foreman1063 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh
    Hey Mike, I got the front clip body mount bracket welded back on and the rubber body mount cut down to 1/2" thick. Fit back together like stock but much higher. Thanks again for the help.
     
  24. yager

    yager Better Faster Stronger

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2005
    Location:
    Wake Forest, NC
    Some pics of the update. Next up is link brackets.

    20100214-TJ-Front 001.jpg

    20100214-TJ-Front 002.jpg
     
  25. toymaker

    toymaker ROCK CORPS 4X4

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2009
    Location:
    marion
    Looks good mike cant wait to see it when you get done:bounce2:
     

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