Lawn and Landscape

Discussion in 'General Chit Chat' started by RobMcBee, Sep 30, 2015.

  1. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    You will want to apply a Pre emergent over this winter to keep cool season weeds from germinating, now would be a good time. In Late February when its the coldest and all centipede is totally dormant you can also spray Round up on any existing green weeds and it wont hurt the centipede. I'm not a pro on Centipede but March would be too early if youre going to overseed. I'm pressed for time but will read up and get you some good info later.
     
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  2. Mac5005

    Mac5005 Welding Instructor

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2005
    Location:
    Rocky Mount

    Thanks, and I appreciate any and all help.

    Any recommendation for a product name for a good pre-emergent ?
     
  3. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Dimension is my favorite but there's also Pendamethalin. These are the actual pre-emergents. They will be mixed in with the fert. You don't need Nitrogen so it may in the formulation of 0-0-7 or something like that. Look at the John S+Deere LAndscape stores which are now called Site One. Lowes and Home Depot no longer sell their products. If you need to go to one of those stores for convenience just look at the bags and make sure it has the pre-emergent and how much area it covers. I will get you some better info shortly.
     
  4. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Heres a link for Citipede lawns. HGIC 1215 Centipedegrass Maintenance Calendar : Extension : Clemson University : South Carolina
    Be careful of 24-d products, make sure they are compatible for centipede.
    Heres the address for a local Site One store for you
    Address: 501 Staton Rd, Greenville, NC 27834
    Phone:(252) 551-3700
    They have the best supplies for what you need.
    Once you read over the Clemson page, come back with any questions you have.
     
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  5. ponykilr

    ponykilr Guest

    OK, It's almost pre-emergent time. What do you recommend? I plan to use some Trimec for the few little weeds and the few types of Crabgrass that have held on through the winter. There is just a few tiny clumps of CG but I am gonna get it early.

    My bluegrass/fescue blend is doing great. We had such a warm wet Nov/Dec that it has established perfectly.
     
  6. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    I'd like to get some zoysia going in my yard, but i need a plan. is it better to go with sod or from seed? what do i need to do to my existing weeds/grass lawn to prep for either and when?
     
  7. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    My favorite pre emergent is Dimension I use Lesco from Site One (formerly Lesco/John Deere) The product of choice this spring is 18-0-4 with Dimension. KNow your lawn square footage and buy accordingly. Each bag covers 10-12K square feet. Be sure to ask so you get it right.
     
  8. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    It'll take two+ years to get Zoysia to grow from seed and you'll fight weeds all along the way.
    It's best to sod if possible. For best results, spray all lawn areas with Round Up and make sure it's dead. Till, Rake or fine grade, and apply sod. Super Sod has printed out brochures and a lot of good info on their website for the different warm season turfs.
     
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  9. drkelly

    drkelly Dipstick who put two vehicles on jack stands

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Oak Ridge/Stokesdale, NC
    My FIL did Zoysia in his front lawn. Like RQ said, it took about 2 years or so to get established and cost him a fortune. It never did work underneath two big river birch trees. He had to go back to normal fescue in those areas.
     
  10. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    What were the costs to get it going?
     
  11. drkelly

    drkelly Dipstick who put two vehicles on jack stands

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Oak Ridge/Stokesdale, NC

    Im not sure, but for some reason $2,000 sticks in my head. He had the landscape guy out there a few times trying to get it right. Now that it is established they have trouble with it trying to grow into their natural areas of bark chips.
     
  12. shawn

    shawn running dog lackey of the oppressor class Administrator

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    Depends on the SF. But you probably have too many trees.

    Thinking about slit seeding my front yard in the spring. Can't decide between fescue and a warm season... But will probably end up with fescue based on seed cost.
     
  13. Black Bear

    Black Bear Well-Known Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Raleigh, NC
    I had an impulse buy on monday. A tree removal company was next door so i got a quote for the 3 big pines in my front yard. Price was right so i let them do it.

    Idealy I would only need a hardy grass in the side yard as i drive on it to get my trailer out. I could do something different in the front yard. Im fairly good at growing weeds, i'd like to change that and have a decent lawn.
     
  14. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    Here's what will happen if you seed most any warm season turf. You have to kill whats there first so you have 2-3 apps of Round Up, Then you have to till to prepare soil and then fine grade back out. This can be hard or real hard depending on how you do it and how much of the crap and debris you want to remove from the soil. Then you'll be seeding at optimum weed germinating time so crabgrass will do it's best to take over instead of your expensive zoysia seed. at the end of the summer, you'll have a lot of crap in there. That fall and winter you'll have it spray it out and hope to have enough cover to get you to Spring/summer. Then it'll be about May before the zoysia starts coming out of dormacy so you can evaluate whether you need to slit seed or aerate and seed again.
    If you're more worried about a side yard you can drive on then just slit seed in a warm season turf next April and let it blend with the fescue.
    Oh and shade and ground up tree stumps do not grow grass of any type.
     
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  15. drkelly

    drkelly Dipstick who put two vehicles on jack stands

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2005
    Location:
    Oak Ridge/Stokesdale, NC
    Im going to put this down in late February or early March. I got it on sale last fall.

    image.jpg

    Then im going to put this down in late May.

    image.jpg
     
  16. RobMcBee

    RobMcBee Slow n easy when you're not gettin greasy....

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Location:
    Fort Mill / Indian Land SC
    We've had such a mild warm winter, has anyone thought about going ahead and putting out their pre emergents? Thought about it since I'd like to overseed again in late April.


    Thoughts?
     
  17. guffey24

    guffey24 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    Go for it, some of my guys have already started

    Typically I would like to see pre-emergent herbicides put down before March 15, this year we could see an earlier crabgrass germination, but soil temps are no where close right now
     
  18. RobMcBee

    RobMcBee Slow n easy when you're not gettin greasy....

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2009
    Location:
    Fort Mill / Indian Land SC
    That's what I was thinking, I know they aren't at temp now but with No real hard freeze it wouldn't take much to warm up the ground. Gotta feeling the mosquitos are going to be even worse this year too.
     
  19. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    I always wait until the first week in March for pre em. If you're going to overseed in April then your pre emergent will keep your new seed from germination. It keeps ALL seeds from germinating, not just the bad ones. If you're going to seed, then don't put down pre em now, seed in first week of March, let it grow and mow 2x then put down pre em.. You still may get some weeds but you can't do it all and have it all work together.
     
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  20. ponykilr

    ponykilr Guest

    Putting mine down end of this week. I have some CG coming up in places (not my lawn) already so I know before long will be too late.
     
  21. R Q

    R Q Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2005
    Location:
    Charlotte
    You're out east side of the state. We are getting a cold snap coming back thru and still have 25 degree mornings so no need to put Pre em out in this area yet. Good thing about Dimension is that it kills up to two tiller crabgrass.
     
  22. ponykilr

    ponykilr Guest

    We are getting another blast of cold too. Funny how the little bit of smooth CG that has popped up seems unaffected by the cold or the frost we have had.
     
  23. guffey24

    guffey24 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    There is no crabgrass out right yet, it may be another type of grassy weed, post a picture
     
  24. guffey24

    guffey24 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    Some good points here, get your pre-emerge out by the second week of March and you will miss the crabgrass germination dates in all of North Carolina

    I am not a fan of overseeding in the spring for several reasons, first is weeds, second is pre-emergent herbicides, no matter which one you use, they are all Root pruners, so spring seeding becomes a guessing game as to whether your seed will come up and make it through the spring disease, and summer heat

    If seeding in the spring is a must, I recommend spraying quinclorac at the time of seeding, it's a herbicide that mainly kills crabgrass, it does not effect seed germination in any stage, so it can be sprayed, pre, during and post seeding to kill crabgrass

    The quinclorac can be sprayed every 14 days for good crabgrass control without the pre-emerge pruning the roots of your fresh lawn, I like 6-8 weeks after seeding using reduced rates of pre-emergent herbicides to control weeds
     
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  25. guffey24

    guffey24 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2006
    Location:
    Hendersonville, NC
    This is a very good tool to put in the back of your brain, greencast online

    Look at the pest outlook maps, it will show you almost to the day when crabgrass is germinating, or when poa annua is germinating, or when to look for disease

    Pest Outlook Maps | GreenCast | Syngenta
     

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