Lawn and Landscape

Suggestions needed:

I've got about 1.5ac that has been overgrown for about a year. Briars, blackberries, privette, etc.

Had it scalped with the bushhog today, but thats obviously not the same as a fresh mow, so I then went over the same area with the mower deck as low as possible.

What is the best course of action to get this looking like a lawn? Im not expecting, nor do I have the time to maintain a golf course, but I do want a transformation. I do not have the money or machinery to scrape the top layer off and completely get rid of everything that is left after bushhoggin. What is the best combination of seeding/mowing/etc. to get this done?
 
Crossbow or something to kill everything, then wait a month or two and burn it, then throw out some seed and fertilizer.

Disclaimer: I have no idea what I'm talking about and mainly just want you to set it on fire!
 
tkeaton said:
Suggestions needed:

I've got about 1.5ac that has been overgrown for about a year. Briars, blackberries, privette, etc.

Had it scalped with the bushhog today, but thats obviously not the same as a fresh mow, so I then went over the same area with the mower deck as low as possible.

What is the best course of action to get this looking like a lawn? Im not expecting, nor do I have the time to maintain a golf course, but I do want a transformation. I do not have the money or machinery to scrape the top layer off and completely get rid of everything that is left after bushhoggin. What is the best combination of seeding/mowing/etc. to get this done?
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Just keep mowing on a regular basis and then aerate, seed (with K31), and fertilize in the Fall. If you have a way to spray it all with 24d that would help. Its a little hot to spry 24d right now but given the circumstance, I think it would be fine.
 
R Q said:
Just keep mowing on a regular basis and then aerate, seed (with K31), and fertilize in the Fall. If you have a way to spray it all with 24d that would help. Its a little hot to spry 24d right now but given the circumstance, I think it would be fine.
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X2. I would spray 24D or ClearPasture. Maybe spray multiple times between now and the fall. Then overseed heavily with grass of choice.

If you have a drag/rake for your tractor if might help to get rid of some of the weeds after they are dead.
 
With either 2,4D/ClearPasture/Crossbow, how much of a buffer do I need to give the trees that are in the area?

As for other grass types, what else might I consider besides the K31?

Being that it is only an acre, I am not opposed to spending time/money on seed and fertilizer, once I get it under control. Should I work in multi-year stages and just do the herbicide, followed by K31 and mowing this year and then next year start transitioning to something else?

Ultimately the goal for this part of the property is to be more or less a manicured (again though, not show quality) mini orchard. There are already a few variety of apple and pear trees and I will be adding other dwarf fruit trees over the next few years.
 
I don't think you are supposed to spray 24D stuff within 6 weeks of seeding because it will prevent germination. You also should not spray it within 2-3 days before or after mowing. I think You are also not supposed to spray it above 90 deg. I would spray it now then spray again in two weeks. Then do nothing but mow regularly until late September when you will want to aerate and overseed heavily.
 
To spray 24d, let it grow to get some leaf surface so the plants can take it in. And don't spray under the drip line of thew trees and don't spray on a windy day.
Turf Type Fescue, bermuda, Bluegrass, K31 any grass of your choice.
 
Stop poisoning your children with Pharaohs chems

Researchers have observed apparent links between exposure to 2,4-D and non-Hodgkin's lymphoma (a blood cancer) and sarcoma (a soft-tissue cancer). But both of these can be caused by a number of chemicals, including dioxin, which was frequently mixed into formulations of 2,4-D until the mid-1990s. Nevertheless, in 2015, the International Agency for Research on Cancer declared 2,4-D a possible human carcinogen, based on evidence that it damages human cells and, in a number of studies, caused cancer in laboratory animals.

More conclusive is the proof that 2,4-D falls into a class of compounds called endocrine-disrupting chemicals, compounds that mimic or inhibit the body's hormones. Laboratory studies suggest that 2,4-D can impede the normal action of estrogen, androgen, and most conclusively, thyroid hormones. Dozens of epidemiological, animal, and laboratory studies have shown a link between 2,4-D and thyroid disorders. "That's really important when we're thinking about development," says Kristi Pullen, a staff scientist in NRDC's Health program. "Our thyroid works to ensure the proper timing and development of the brain."

There are reports that 2,4-D can decrease fertility and raise the risk of birth defects. But even though fetuses, infants, and children are at highest risk of these, no studies have looked directly at the effects of 2,4-D on those groups.

Despite concerns about potential health risks, in 2014 the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency approved the combined use of 2,4-D and the popular weed killer Roundup (also known as glyphosate, a whole other—and in many ways more worrying—story when it comes to health and the environment). Enlist Duo, as the combo is called, was already legal in several states. It is used mainly on big farms, where it is sprayed on genetically modified crops called Enlist soy and Enlist corn that have been engineered to be resistant to the poisons.


If you want to kill weeds just mix cinnamon oil, Clove oil, and a wetting agent and spray it.

Make better choices
 
24d is some powerful stuff, I'm not surprised there's some scientists who found it's unhealthy. Looking at my yard 12 hours after spraying, it sure doesn't look like something you'd want to walk barefoot on. I'm amazed fescue can live thru that.
I use it sparingly, then try to walk our dogs elsewhere until a good rain rinses everything down. But honestly with all the crap in our food supply, I'm not gonna worry about every little thing in life, we're fooked anyways.
 
What is this crap grass and how can I kill it without killing my fescue?
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jeepinmatt said:
What is this crap grass and how can I kill it without killing my fescue?
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Imo, Best bet is to spot spray with roundup or the like, rake/dig/drag the remaining roots/runners and then overseed heavily with fescue.

A thick healthy fescue lawn will keep it out but you have to get there first.

Or you can give it to the bermuda and itll take over.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Imo, Best bet is to spot spray with roundup or the like, rake/dig/drag the remaining roots/runners and then overseed heavily with fescue.

A thick healthy fescue lawn will keep it out but you have to get there first.

Or you can give it to the bermuda and itll take over.
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Multiple applications of roundup, it will green back up after several apps of roundup

I have sprayed 5 apps ten days apart

Or you can do this

Turflon Ester 32oz per acre
Acclaim extra 32 oz per acre

Spray this combo in may, June, July for good Bermuda grass control without much fescue injury
 
guffey24 said:
Multiple applications of roundup, it will green back up after several apps of roundup

I have sprayed 5 apps ten days apart

Or you can do this

Turflon Ester 32oz per acre
Acclaim extra 32 oz per acre

Spray this combo in may, June, July for good Bermuda grass control without much fescue injury
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With grasses like bermuda you have to kill/remove the roots to rid it.
 
It took over about 60% of the yard by the end of last year. In the fall I put the 6ft rake behind the tractor and raked over it what felt like 100 times and pulled it all into a pile and then carried if off into the woods. Seems to have worked in 95% of the yard. Maybe I'll give it a shot again, as the rake is better at pulling up bermuda than fescue, so it won't completely kill that section of yard.
 
Great weather for grass seed here in Raleigh!
 
RenegadeT said:
What's this weed, and will 24d kill it?
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I thought you were smarter than the rest of us dumbasses in here and subscribed to the 'mow whatever grows' plan?

I gave my lawn the full treatment (aerate, seed, straw, fertilizer) about two days before one of those hurricanes rained on us back in early September. It all came up fantastic, but the grass immediately around my house died due to 85+ degree weather for the month that followed. Even with regularly watering, I couldn't keep it alive.
 
Got our lawn area soils reports back today...

I just put down 5#/1000 last week but picked up more today based on the report recommendations. Based on my conversation with the guy at Site One, I'll be adding more (to get where I'm supposed to be) when I put down winter fertilizer.

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I'll be taking a closer look at the fertilizer recommendations, also. @R Q , any thoughts?
 
trailhugger said:
Got our lawn area soils reports back today...

I just put down 5#/1000 last week but picked up more today based on the report recommendations. Based on my conversation with the guy at Site One, I'll be adding more (to get where I'm supposed to be) when I put down winter fertilizer.

View attachment 256468 View attachment 256469

I'll be taking a closer look at the fertilizer recommendations, also. @R Q , any thoughts?
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Yes, do the lime as recommended. I expect that Site One recommended Calcitic Lime or fast lime. Your other option is regular dolomitic lime which works slower but in my opinion lasts longer also and will raise your already low Mg. Your soil does need calcium so use the fast lime first to get your pH closer then, use dolomitic for a longer lasting effect.
Next consider using some Gypsum at 15/M a couple of times in the next year and it is always a good addition. It will get your Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) rate up which you need. CEC is a rate at which the molecules in the soil are able to move about and interact so to speak. It is not a measure of compaction.
One thing that the Lesco tests don't measure is the Humic value, or the amount of organic matter within the soil which is a helpful tool. Organics in the soil add beneficial bacteria and nutrients. You can add organics by using Milorganite, real compost, or some of the organic based ferts on the market, BUT these are hard to add into your pre-em program because being organic, they usually don't add chemicals such as pre-em into them. Many of the Lesco ferts do have an organic component added into them but IMO it's not enough, I like real compost or composted poultry fertilizer. Site One does carry a GREAT organic fert called Sustane, but it ain't cheap!
One last thing and you may think I'm crazy but go buy some red wiggler fishing worms and plant them around a few places in your yard. Yes, dig as hole and put them in it and make sure the soil is moist and don't mash them in. There is nothing that works harder at decompacting your soil and turning organic matter into usable nutrients than the red wiggler worm.
Okay a second last thing, next time you do a soil sample, use NCSU, NCDA&CS Agronomic Division - Soil Test Forms and Information Its free most of the year and gives you a little bit more useful info. It is slow to get back to you so Im glad you used Site One this time around.
Great job on your yard!
 
One application of Fusilade II took care of my neighbor’s bermuda that creeped over into half of my front yard. After a decent seeding I am now back to fescue.
 
TARider said:
One application of Fusilade II took care of my neighbor’s bermuda that creeped over into half of my front yard. After a decent seeding I am now back to fescue.
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Thats good to hear. Let me kow how it works next year. I havent used it in years as the old formulation only "suppressed" bermuda.
 
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