Lawn and Landscape

tlucier said:
@R Q - do you know if Site One sells straw wattles for erosion control? I've got an asshat neighbor that redirected runoff and is making a hell of a mess of my stone lined river bed. I need to control the runoff and capture the silt before it fills in and buries all of my rock.
Click to expand...
Maybe, I'm not sure but a call or a website check may tell you. You can also make your own by using 3 stakes with some silt fence ziptied to it. Put one stake in center of ditch and one each side upstraem and attach silt fence. Straw bales shaped in a "V" also work.
 
R Q said:
Maybe some lime since you dug it up. You used fescue and not a contractor mix? Those have rye in the. It actually doesnt look terrible. If it hasnt had any fert then a light application or even some ironite.
Click to expand...

I used Pennington fescue/kentucky mic since that's what I had. I didn't lay down any fert or anything, just kept it watered in the beginning. I've got tons of lime I can put down but no fert. I can go some easily though. The back corner hardly gets enough sun to dry up so I expected some difficulties there but it's thinning. What fert should I try?
 
99JeepXJ said:
I used Pennington fescue/kentucky mic since that's what I had. I didn't lay down any fert or anything, just kept it watered in the beginning. I've got tons of lime I can put down but no fert. I can go some easily though. The back corner hardly gets enough sun to dry up so I expected some difficulties there but it's thinning. What fert should I try?
Click to expand...
Something in the 16-4-8 range without any weed or pre emergent products in it. Milorganite, 10-10-10, just stay away from high nitrogen (the first number) over 18 max. Thats whats wrong with it, just needs a light application of fert and light lime wouldnt hurt.
 
R Q said:
Maybe, I'm not sure but a call or a website check may tell you. You can also make your own by using 3 stakes with some silt fence ziptied to it. Put one stake in center of ditch and one each side upstraem and attach silt fence. Straw bales shaped in a "V" also work.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Great idea!
 
R Q said:
Something in the 16-4-8 range without any weed or pre emergent products in it. Milorganite, 10-10-10, just stay away from high nitrogen (the first number) over 18 max. Thats whats wrong with it, just needs a light application of fert and light lime wouldnt hurt.
Click to expand...

Do I have to be careful not to get it on the surrounding grass? I found lesco 16-4-8 and am going to use that
 
Anyone know what the heck is going on in my crape myrtle?

6666649e0b2c749df52e8c34b8541f9b.jpg
 
@R Q
Do you ever recommend bagging grass? I do not bag mine, but sometimes it is so thick in the spring that I occasionally have to rake up piles of clippings in some spots.

Can too many clippings suffocate the lawn and cause some of it to die?
 
drkelly said:
@R Q
Do you ever recommend bagging grass? I do not bag mine, but sometimes it is so thick in the spring that I occasionally have to rake up piles of clippings in some spots.

Can too many clippings suffocate the lawn and cause some of it to die?
Click to expand...
If theyre too thick than either rake 'em or bag 'em! Yes excessive clippings can cause issues.
 
@drkelly
Sometimes when my lawn gets too tall before mowing I will mow it and then run back over it. The second trip around always takes care of the clumps of grass.

I have mulching blades and the chute blocked off on my mower. That may make a difference. I don't know.
 
Or cut it with the chute open, then hook up the bagger and run around to pick up whatever leaves/clumps/etc are laying around.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
@drkelly
Sometimes when my lawn gets too tall before mowing I will mow it and then run back over it. The second trip around always takes care of the clumps of grass.

I have mulching blades and the chute blocked off on my mower. That may make a difference. I don't know.
Click to expand...

I don't have mulching blades on mine. Standard blades blowing the clippings out the side. I mow once a week at most (Sat or Sun), and in the spring, that just doesn't seem to be often enough some weeks when the rains kick in the fertilizer.

I need to fix my bagger. The metal tube work frame cracked about 4-5 years ago.
 
TARider said:
Well dang. Looks like I have some spraying to hopefully keep it from spreading. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

I've got 3 pretty good size trunks off a large Tuskegee Crape Myrtle that I need to cut off the main tree due to ambrosia beetle damage. Hopefully it doesn't wreck the shape of the tree too much. Friggin' beetles! :kaioken:
 
YotaOnRocks said:
@drkelly
Sometimes when my lawn gets too tall before mowing I will mow it and then run back over it. The second trip around always takes care of the clumps of grass.

I have mulching blades and the chute blocked off on my mower. That may make a difference. I don't know.
Click to expand...
Brings up another point.

@R Q I have heard multiple times, "Dont cut more than 1/3 blade height at a time or it will hurt the grass". I know most arent measuring their lawns before mowing. Any truth?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Brings up another point.

@R Q I have heard multiple times, "Dont cut more than 1/3 blade height at a time or it will hurt the grass". I know most arent measuring their lawns before mowing. Any truth?
Click to expand...
Thats a good general rule but do what ya gotta do! I mow once per week on my jobs and I mow whatever is there to be cut. Sometimes it's 1/3, some times 1/2. A lawn can be scalped occasionally and be ok, just not on a regular basis. Different types of grass have different effects from cutting too much.
 
That strip of grass is getting worse. I put down 10-10-10 fertilizer and doesn't seem to be doing anything, it's been about a week. Not sure what else to really do and how to attack it. I didn't put any lime down so I guess I'll do that today and see what happens. Frustrating cause the rest of my lawn has came a long way from when we moved in 1.5 yrs ago, it was all clay with straw over it! Now it's green, decently thick except that strip I put new water line in
 
99JeepXJ said:
That strip of grass is getting worse. I put down 10-10-10 fertilizer and doesn't seem to be doing anything, it's been about a week. Not sure what else to really do and how to attack it. I didn't put any lime down so I guess I'll do that today and see what happens. Frustrating cause the rest of my lawn has came a long way from when we moved in 1.5 yrs ago, it was all clay with straw over it! Now it's green, decently thick except that strip I put new water line in
Click to expand...
I'm just afraid that it has rye in it that will be burning out at this time of year. It could be fungus or grubs but it most likely wouldn't stay in just that area. Dig up a spot and look into the soil for any clues..
 
R Q said:
I'm just afraid that it has rye in it that will be burning out at this time of year. It could be fungus or grubs but it most likely wouldn't stay in just that area. Dig up a spot and look into the soil for any clues..
Click to expand...

I just got back to town from business trip so haven't dug to see if there's a big problem but this looks like fungus again?

215f49c5b50702b9a67e22d860268cdf.jpg

fea4dc526c8f8718b4f84c1892211542.jpg

d22fdad8865acd00cf5f26fe8bb2db1a.jpg


Then the second half that's closest to the house has really thinned out but I didn't do any fertilizer til this past application so that could play a role in this section I'm thinking.

0da5df6a30da7119cdda84ce693cfcba.jpg
 
It looks like Pythium which is fungus. Early in morning there can be some white cottony looking stuff around it called Mycelium. Not all fungicides kill Pythium and it can come back fairly quickly after spraying.
 
R Q said:
It looks like Pythium which is fungus. Early in morning there can be some white cottony looking stuff around it called Mycelium. Not all fungicides kill Pythium and it can come back fairly quickly after spraying.
Click to expand...

I'll google and see if there's any type of treatment specifically for that. Is there any reason it's only on the fresh part of the lawn?
 
99JeepXJ said:
I'll google and see if there's any type of treatment specifically for that. Is there any reason it's only on the fresh part of the lawn?
Click to expand...
It could have been deep in the soil or just more susceptible since the turf in new. Subdue will kill it, if that's what it is. Show these pics to the SiteOne guys and they may be able to identify better.
 
Back
Top