Killer Weldz Thread

Hard to say. They often look fine even when cold.
Yep, saw etch, bend. Do a series of lab joints or tees. Then saw in sections. Use navel jelly or muratic acid to see the penetration node real clearly. Sometimes on the cheap just the right slight amount of flame heat from a torch can bring out the weld, since it has a different density then the parent material.
 
Last edited:
Yep, saw etch, bend. Do a series of lab joints or tees. Then saw in sections. Use navel jelly or muratic acid to see the penetration node real clearly. Sometimes on the cheap just the right slight amount of flame heat from a torch can bring oh the weld, since it has a different density then the parent material.

A good polish and white vinegar works in a pinch.
 
I had to embrace my inner fuller and break out the flux core to build my bumper this weekend. Not the best, but got the job done in the limited shop time that I had.

20180304_135251.jpg

20180304_135538.jpg
 
Haven't really used a stick welder before but a customer needed some hand rails welded to plates on a dock and wanted it done asap. So I gave it a try.

1120171149a.jpg
1120171142a.jpg
1120171149.jpg
 
When a student take advantage of what you been teaching. One of my guys said I love pulse. I said show me. After he ran his I said give me a go. His set up is absolute cruise control on this joint. Laywire 1/16 filler on .125 dirty CR or P and O sheet.
0316181341.jpg

0316181341a.jpg

Mine is on the left and back. Keep in mind this guy had never saw a Gtaw welder until this semester. He only welds about an hour 3 days a week. He is 16.
 
When a student take advantage of what you been teaching. One of my guys said I love pulse. I said show me. After he ran his I said give me a go. His set up is absolute cruise control on this joint. Laywire 1/16 filler on .125 dirty CR or P and O sheet.
View attachment 264860
View attachment 264861
Mine is on the left and back. Keep in mind this guy had never saw a Gtaw welder until this semester. He only welds about an hour 3 days a week. He is 16.


What's the cross-section look like, though?
 
What's the cross-section look like, though?
We did some laywire and cutting. We have learned the trick is allowing it to "hit".....this setting starts at 150 amps.:D
Judging by the backside and bead profile while putting it in I got real high expectations...I saved them we will cut them next week.
 
We did some laywire and cutting. We have learned the trick is allowing it to "hit".....this setting starts at 150 amps.:D
Judging by the backside and bead profile while putting it in I got real high expectations...I saved them we will cut them next week.
I just happened to watch a Weldmonger video last week that did just this, with and without pulse using laywire on a lap joint I think. Cut, polished, and etched; iirc, the pulsed test piece didn't even fuse the back of the filler wire into the root. Interested in your outcome, cuz I'm no authority on the subject. [emoji16]




Jody said he was using to large a filler, and low heat settings, but I think his point was just that- pretty is not always good.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
I just happened to watch a Weldmonger video last week that did just this, with and without pulse using laywire on a lap joint I think. Cut, polished, and etched; iirc, the pulsed test piece didn't even fuse the back of the filler wire into the root. Interested in your outcome, cuz I'm no authority on the subject. [emoji16]




Jody said he was using to large a filler, and low heat settings, but I think his point was just that- pretty is not always good.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk


Yup. I saw the same one! I've never really trusted laywire, though. I'll use it on occasion on thin stuff, but I don't have a pulser, so I can't cheat the appearance.

Let me back up. I don't really trust laywire on root or fillet passes. Can't see the root of the weld. How do you know you're punching in there? If you're laying cover passes, it seems like a good way to get filler in there.
 
When a student take advantage of what you been teaching. One of my guys said I love pulse. I said show me. After he ran his I said give me a go. His set up is absolute cruise control on this joint. Laywire 1/16 filler on .125 dirty CR or P and O sheet.
View attachment 264860
View attachment 264861
Mine is on the left and back. Keep in mind this guy had never saw a Gtaw welder until this semester. He only welds about an hour 3 days a week. He is 16.
... it looks like your student does have a knack for the tig torch for sure. [emoji106]

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
I just happened to watch a Weldmonger video last week that did just this, with and without pulse using laywire on a lap joint I think. Cut, polished, and etched; iirc, the pulsed test piece didn't even fuse the back of the filler wire into the root. Interested in your outcome, cuz I'm no authority on the subject. [emoji16]




Jody said he was using to large a filler, and low heat settings, but I think his point was just that- pretty is not always good.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk

Yup. I saw the same one! I've never really trusted laywire, though. I'll use it on occasion on thin stuff, but I don't have a pulser, so I can't cheat the appearance.

Let me back up. I don't really trust laywire on root or fillet passes. Can't see the root of the weld. How do you know you're punching in there? If you're laying cover passes, it seems like a good way to get filler in there.
I use the same in my class. Guys really want to just crutch up if your not carefull. I start early with just the puddle, then dip only. Just like I learned oxyfuel. Which should still be taught. The absolute technique is to never climb the filler. We set the on time Peak, precent background, and pps to control the addition. We really messed with it so it doesn't ball up the filler or cold lap it. On the same note before this young man struggled with dip transfer. The pulsed setting showed him what consistency and timing would do for his efforts. Now his dips are almost as good. Even when laywire walking a cup on roots or fill ups time on joint matters a lot. This 5 to 6 inch pass actually excersised some patience.
150 amps, 30 percent peak time, 5 pps, 30 percent background current (of the 150) . Er70s-2 filler 1/16 diameter.
 
Here are some root passes on a Goatbuilt chassis I'm putting together and building to a roller for Travis Watford.

Everything is getting a root and cover pass.


5832e95aaf4d2c39ac9c9334e662aadb.jpg



390c5e48913a52b0a1d2e545e724cdcc.jpg



aede5be293a9c175c7f03d3695e5c094.jpg



76406f27fca058a5bd9c726c4ccc04dc.jpg



e6d37aa0b7333eb6d620f8b6bd4eb827.jpg




9cb1a361fa5d4202f4844910d364b9d1.jpg




06fcb051725fc9d02b5c51c359f294d8.jpg



f21c9a90d16991612a4d7e323f65d544.jpg



1449e68be84e3e1e9121edd6e6f9c1f3.jpg


Diversion 165, maxed out on dial using pedal pulse, 3/32 2% lanthanated, 1/16 and .035 mig wire er-70s-2 filler. #8 gas saver cup, 17 torch with dial and 2t/4t control used for tacking.

Don't have any cover is pics yet.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Here are some root passes on a Goatbuilt chassis I'm putting together and building to a roller for Travis Watford.

Everything is getting a root and cover pass.


5832e95aaf4d2c39ac9c9334e662aadb.jpg



390c5e48913a52b0a1d2e545e724cdcc.jpg



aede5be293a9c175c7f03d3695e5c094.jpg



76406f27fca058a5bd9c726c4ccc04dc.jpg



e6d37aa0b7333eb6d620f8b6bd4eb827.jpg




9cb1a361fa5d4202f4844910d364b9d1.jpg




06fcb051725fc9d02b5c51c359f294d8.jpg



f21c9a90d16991612a4d7e323f65d544.jpg



1449e68be84e3e1e9121edd6e6f9c1f3.jpg


Diversion 165, maxed out on dial using pedal pulse, 3/32 2% lanthanated, 1/16 and .035 mig wire er-70s-2 filler. #8 gas saver cup, 17 torch with dial and 2t/4t control used for tacking.

Don't have any cover is pics yet.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk

Looks great.

I hope your diversion welds better than mine.

Mine burnt more pc boards than filler and spent more time at the service center than at my shop.
 
Looks great.

I hope your diversion welds better than mine.

Mine burnt more pc boards than filler and spent more time at the service center than at my shop.
It welds great. Nice, crisp start, and clean arc. I've only burnt up one pedal. Had the machine about 5 years, bought used, but didn't even turn it on till about 18 months ago.

I an looking to upgrade to a 250+ amp machine with water cooling. I'll keep this unit for bench welding and tacking chassis; the thumb wheel as 2t/4t button work real nice for that. It really does everything I need, but it needs more features on aluminum. And the pure and post flow have no adjustment, it runs too long on post.

I am considering the everlast 250ex with water cooler. I can't justify the cost of another blue machine in that amp range.

Thanks Scotty.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
I'm guessing yours is the one on the bottom? Looks like you got it dialed-in nicely. I'm going to guess on the upper one that the small bead was travel speed, and the undercutting was torch angle.
Yes and yes and thanks:beer:.
 
I’ve heard good things about the everlast 250.

I’ve been eyeing that or the square wave 200.

If I didn’t have access to the aspect 375s at school I would definitely shoot for 250 amp machine for exactly why you stated when dealing with aluminum


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I’ve heard good things about the everlast 250.

I’ve been eyeing that or the square wave 200.

If I didn’t have access to the aspect 375s at school I would definitely shoot for 250 amp machine for exactly why you stated when dealing with aluminum


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
what is your opinion of the Aspect units?? I am sorta on the fence. We use them for Stick welding as well. Definitely different..... I am a old school transformer welder except for all these bells and whistles that can make everyone look like a pro when applied correctly.
 
It welds great. Nice, crisp start, and clean arc. I've only burnt up one pedal. Had the machine about 5 years, bought used, but didn't even turn it on till about 18 months ago.

I an looking to upgrade to a 250+ amp machine with water cooling. I'll keep this unit for bench welding and tacking chassis; the thumb wheel as 2t/4t button work real nice for that. It really does everything I need, but it needs more features on aluminum. And the pure and post flow have no adjustment, it runs too long on post.

I am considering the everlast 250ex with water cooler. I can't justify the cost of another blue machine in that amp range.

Thanks Scotty.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk

I bought a everlast multiprocess ( AC/DC tig,stick, plasma) 205 back in 2011 and it has held up great. I originally bought it to have at home in my garage, but when I opened my business in 2012 It was my primary plasma and tig machine. We don't do a whole lot of heavy fab in the shop, but I used it a good bit for tig and plasma on stainless, mild, and aluminum and it was great. Cut up to 3/4 plate with (it did it, not perfect, but performed) and welded 1/4 AL with it (torch gets real hot, real quick!) Consumables have been pretty easy to get, never needed any parts for it or had any problems (switch in pedal is a little sticky sometimes).

That said, I bought a pcm750i plasma last year for cheap and it cuts better/nicer, and is easier to deal with (don't have to change setup) I also bought an older Memco 250 (basically a early syncrowave 250) with water cooler a couple months ago for dirt cheap (auction) and it is wayyyyyyyyy nicer to tig with than the everlast. Everything about it is smoother, got a couple different torches and all the torches are nicer, feel nicer, maneuver nicer, and I have a 3rd of what I paid for the everlast into it.

The everlast is great for what it is, but for what you are doing @mcutler , I would recommend holding out a bit and try to find a deal on a bigger, maybe a little older red, blue or yellow machine. I always loved my everlast multi, and I have one of their migs as well, but once I got the esab plasma, esab mig and Memco, the everlasts are back ups and there is a significant difference in weld/cut quality. Also, my everlast machines are 5 or more years old, so things may have changed since then.

Just my .02
 
I bought a everlast multiprocess ( AC/DC tig,stick, plasma) 205 back in 2011 and it has held up great. I originally bought it to have at home in my garage, but when I opened my business in 2012 It was my primary plasma and tig machine. We don't do a whole lot of heavy fab in the shop, but I used it a good bit for tig and plasma on stainless, mild, and aluminum and it was great. Cut up to 3/4 plate with (it did it, not perfect, but performed) and welded 1/4 AL with it (torch gets real hot, real quick!) Consumables have been pretty easy to get, never needed any parts for it or had any problems (switch in pedal is a little sticky sometimes).

That said, I bought a pcm750i plasma last year for cheap and it cuts better/nicer, and is easier to deal with (don't have to change setup) I also bought an older Memco 250 (basically a early syncrowave 250) with water cooler a couple months ago for dirt cheap (auction) and it is wayyyyyyyyy nicer to tig with than the everlast. Everything about it is smoother, got a couple different torches and all the torches are nicer, feel nicer, maneuver nicer, and I have a 3rd of what I paid for the everlast into it.

The everlast is great for what it is, but for what you are doing @mcutler , I would recommend holding out a bit and try to find a deal on a bigger, maybe a little older red, blue or yellow machine. I always loved my everlast multi, and I have one of their migs as well, but once I got the esab plasma, esab mig and Memco, the everlasts are back ups and there is a significant difference in weld/cut quality. Also, my everlast machines are 5 or more years old, so things may have changed since then.

Just my .02
Thanks for that report Kyle.

Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top